Terminal_Gravity
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Posts posted by Terminal_Gravity
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Thanks Wayne...that was what my instincts were telling me as well. Living 5 hours away I was hopeing for an opinion, like yours, that might have a bit more reality to back up instincts.
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Is it in shape at all? any chance it might be in a couple of weeks?
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Climber killed by wife from complications initiated by fall.
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Thanks for testing the holding power of screws Rob. You da man! I've never had the pleasure of testing one.
Just curious...
Did you have a screamer on the pro because you thought it was marginal?
Do you think it held because of the screamer.
How much of the screamer was activated.
What size rope were you using?
And..was your injury from strictly the adze or did you get bonked on the fall or by the block.
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Damn, Crackman...Nice job. I drove home from PDX at Oh dark thirty Monday morning and passed that area when it was too dark to see. ( I did not have my tools anyway) The gorge east of The Dalles had more climb-able runnels formed then I have ever seen. I was kicking myself all the way home for not bring gear.
And...FWIW the ice out in the Wallowas, which was fattening up nicely is melting as I write this.
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You might be in luck, it dumped maybe 2 inches in town last night...and I might be in luck because the stars are out now and it's cold...and I want ice!
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I don't think that cooling from evaporation could cool any reaction with such a high heat of reaction as the proper combustion of a fossil fuel, such as in a stove, to have a deleterous effect on combustion.
The heat of combustion outside the canister has nothing do do with the evaporative cooling inside the canister. Unless, of course, you manage to get a fire going inside the can, which I think is a bad idea. Give it a try crazyjz and let me know how it works out for you.
Propane has even been used as a refrigerant gas. It sucks a whole lot of heat when the liquid evaporates inside the canister.
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I don't want to contradict Wind Ridge because they make a living off of people skiiing out here...but it did not snow 6 inches out here yesterday....It is however snowing lightly(very lightly) now.
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Talked to TG earlier in the week. No snow in the Wallowas, but there is apparently some good ice forming.
Yes, That is the story. There are some beginer ice gullys open that I have never seen climbable before because they have always been snow choked before.
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Thanks Rob, I'm just glad that people like my beer.
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989 Miles...$29,500 2 sets of tires, Sticky Yokahama summer Meats and Pirelli Snow sport 240's ( 235/45 VR 17's studless ( amazing winter traction))
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As DanielPatrickSmith stated it does have to do with both temperature AND elevation...but the pressure inside the canister is only affected by the temperature of the can which affects the vapor pressure of the iso-butane. The higher the can temperature, the higher the vapor pressure. the flame strenght (assuming the orrifice is the same) is proportional to the delta P (or difference between the can pressure and the atmospheric pressure). So this means that the higher the elevation the better a can stove burns...
Let me repeat this - canister stoves work BETTER at elevation if the temperature of the fuel is equal. I ran out of iso-butane fuel at a 4 day camp at just under 20,000 feet and continued to use some straight propane canisters that I had as a back-up. They worked just fine. I suspect that at sea-level they would have been problimatic. I do, however, have a few tricks to keep the fuel warm.
Temperature certainly affects the flame more than going higher, but you do get a significant advantage at elevation. The only reason that a partial can seems to lose power faster than an almost full can is because the loss of heat of evaporation of the fuel volitizing inside the can has a much lower volume of liquid to cool down. If you can keep the little bit thats left from getting cold it will burn bright and full to the last sputter.
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Sale pending - to skindiver
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getting back on the horse steve?
Thanks for asking...but, no, they are for my wife. For some crasy reason I just can't get very excited about sking this year.
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I don't know the model of skis, they are in good/very good condition.
Who said anything about silvarettas?
FWIW, I live at 4227feet, in a little shack on the edge of the forest at the trail head to the biggest chunk of granite in Oregon. But I do have access to this thing called UPS and can ship. I said "OBO" which means if you are want the set-up, you could say something like "I'll give you 100 bucks for them, but you have to pay for the shipping." I might say yes, I might not.
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By far Laurelwood's Brew pub in PDX, I forget the name.
My favorite name is AK-47 by The Elisian Brewery in Seattle...They sold way more shirts then the beer which kinda sucked.
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Looking for a pair of good quality adjustable ski Poles
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K2 AT skis about 190CM 100,80,90, Older Petzl AT bindings (they work fine) Size 8 though 12ish, and matching skins ( functional but have seen better days)
$120 OBO
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I have had tips go stiff & numb before without any blistering. The worst lasted about three weeks total but was getting better during that time. I also have gotten surface nip on my cheeks. It turned black and peeled off a couple of days later with virtually no damage to the tissue below the first layer of skin. Obviously real damage but only on a very small area without any depth.
I think the difference on those less than true frost bite examples is the amount of overall warm circulation beneath the surface. Your fingers were cold throughout and probably got a touch of nerve damage without significant damage to the surface. I think that after full recovery you won't be any more susseptable to frost damage because nothing froze hard enough to start exploding cells.
Blood circulation is the key and aggresive finger movement or swinging your arms to keep the slugish blood flowing might have helped your fingers.
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Chelle, You might try John's Market on Multnomah Blvd about 6 miles south of downtown. It is less than 2 minutes from the freeway...2nd light on the NW corner. Getting back on the freeway south bound is a bit more challenging; ask for directions at the store. IMHO John's has close to the best selection of beer in Oregon.
Sorry I have been so out of touch lately. Work has been insane ( not much fun these days ), I've barely been able to get out. Also, I had a keyboard failure, followed by a catastrophic hard drive failure...but I'm back on line and have Broadband for the first time
FWIW I think it will be a good year for Wallowa county ice. If anybody PM's be for Ice info please leave a phone # and be patient for a reply.
Cheers - steve
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Thanks, catbird
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I've taken a couple of 40-50 footers on steep slabs that are not note worthy, a stupid off-route 20 footer on Washington Column that broke an ankle, a small aid fall when the 400 pound flake that I had lowered off to try a tension traverse detached. It passed through the meat of my shoulder...I had lost maybe a pint of blood ( maybe 2...it seemed like a lot) by the time I got down; at which point I passed out cold and pucked while unconcious...my partner totally freaked.
But the best was on my second failed attepmt of a big wall, 1978ish. I ran into this scketchy guy in the Camp Curry parking lot, selling these really really strange looking pro. He called them "friends", ranted and raved about them being the hot new thing and just about refused to take no for an answer. Finally, just to make him shut up and go away I bought a number 2 for the wildly outragious price of 13 bucks ( this crazy man actually wanted 15
)The next day about 5 pitches up Half Dome I came to this severely flaring rounded layback section. Maybe I could have jammed it but my technique was pretty sub-par. I had a good rest stance at the base of the crack and fumbled around for about 10 minutes trying to fit a stopper or a hex. I even tried stacking and opposing, and hand placing a pin in a scar ( we were going hammerless ). It was obvious that nothing would hold. I knew that there was no way that I could place pro once I started up the palmy layback. 20 feet up was a fixed pin as the thing went overhung. I was about 25 feet above my last pro and was about ready to call down for the aid rack when I remembered this stupid "friend " thing. Amazingly, I got 3 out of the 4 swivily things to kind of stick. It was just enough of psycho pro to go for it. 2 minutes later, sweating shaking and panting, my palm popped just as I was clipping the FP. On the flight down I remember assuming I was about to go 100 feet, but the damn thing held. Who would've thunk. My 100 footer turned into a 40
.I was unhurt but my partner & I realized that we were over our heads and rapped off. Later that night I was drinking beer in the Mountain Room, I was well under 21, it didn't seem to matter, and some guy came up to me and handed me my first scotch. Apparently, he had been watching me though a telescope from Glacier point when I fell.
I was one of the first climbers to buy a full rack of friends when they became availible in the Curry store.
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Anybody use one of these yet?
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As said above, but also I suggest toproping for awhile so you can get the feel of the sticks and balance. I great place to play and get a feel for ice climbing is on stable glaciers and seracs in the summer.
Yocum condition
in Oregon Cascades
Posted
Local old timer Cowboy/Poet.