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Otto

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    [TR] Mount Clark - Standard 08/09/2021

    in Olympic Peninsula

    Posted · Edited by Otto
    redacted possibly inflammatory comment about smooting

    I've been wanting to go up Clark for a long time. I've heard there is good rock there. Thank you for the excellent photos!

    However, peak bagging is not a numbers game. It is an experience game, as I'm sure you know.

    [TR] Squire Creek Wall - Concerto in C for Drill and Hammer 09/07/2014

    in North Cascades

    Posted · Edited by Otto
    Thanks for updating the topo, looks good.

    Thanks for posting the topo. Since it is the older version, I assume you got it off Mountain Project. However, I've made the following edits:

    Top pitch is Pitch 14, there is no longer a 15th pitch. (Summit can be reached without stopping at the "tree belay").

    There are now two bolts on Pitch 14.

    There is now a bolt at the "Inverted Prow" on Pitch 11, instead of the piton.

    Is there a size limit on photos or topos?

    in cc.news

    Posted

    I am using IrfanView to reduce the size, with its Resize/Resample feature. However, even though the resulting file sizes go very low, they will not upload. Maybe there is something wrong with the way I saved it out from Photoshop; I'll try something some other options. 

    [TR] Squire Creek Wall - Concerto in C for Drill and Hammer 09/07/2014

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    Trip: Squire Creek Wall - Concerto in C for Drill and Hammer

    Trip Date: 09/07/2014

    Trip Report:

     

    Posting this record and topo to allow the Trip Report Search to find the route history.

     

    This route was made with work done from July, 2013 to September, 2014, with the FA on 9/7/2014.

    Pitches 1-9 (partial) by David Whitelaw and Bill Enger.
    Pitches 9 (partial) and 10 by Bill Enger and Jim Daubert.
    Pitches 11-14 by Bill Enger and Jake Larson.

    In 7/2020, four smashed bolts or hangers on Pitch 2 were repaired or replaced by Bill Enger.
    In 7/2021, additions were made by Bill Enger and Brian Young: Pitch 11 bolt added at Inverted Prow to replace piton, Pitch 14 two bolts added to protect the white rib and a chain anchor added on the summit.

    The topo to follow, too big to attach here...

    Gear Notes:
    Standard single rack to 3". Two 60m ropes.

    Approach Notes:
    Boot track from Squire Creek.

    ConcertoInC_rev1.jpg.fbdf1e129e58d97c018fafd216ab95b6.jpg

     

    ConcertoInC_rev1.pdf

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    [TR] Squire Creek Wall - Concerto in C for Drill and Hammer 07/18/2021

    in North Cascades

    Posted · Edited by Otto
    Tried to insert a movie file, but it only makes a link.

    Trip: Squire Creek Wall - Concerto in C for Drill and Hammer

    Trip Date: 07/18/2021

    Trip Report:

     

    On Saturday, July 17th I met Brian Young at the Shell station in Darrington for a trip up Concerto in C for Drill and Hammer on Squire Creek Wall.

     

    Glad that I'd borrowed Brian's brush cutter earlier this year, the bike ride up the old logging road was pleasant. In no hurry with only the approach to do this day, it took us 3 hours to get to camp. Then we carried our ropes and climbing gear up to the top of Pitch 1, having soloed the easy first pitch, and clipped it all to the anchor there.

    On Sunday the 18th we awoke at 4:30, first light, and departed after breakfast. At first we worried about the pack weight for the second, as it contained four full water bottles, all drilling gear, a chain anchor, and six bolts with hangers. We even discussed fixing each pitch and the second doing them on jumars. Instead, I tried climbing with it, and not one complaint was aired all day. We climbed rapidly and were at the Bubba Compactor at 7:30am!

    Brian took Pitch 2, which had me worried, but he cruised it and every even-numbered pitch thereafter. I followed Pitch 10 with no problem with the pack, it was even fun! I noted the piton was still there on Pitch 11; this point didn't seem as scary as on the FA. On Pitch 14 Brian yelled that this was the scariest pitch of the whole route! We noted that a bolt or two would be good on the sandy slabs there.

    We reached the summit at 2:00. I quickly made ready for drilling the list of fixups, which included:
    1) Installing a chain anchor on the summit
    2) Adding two bolts to Pitch 14
    3) Replacing the piton on Pitch 11 with a bolt
    4) Replacing the two quarter-inch buttonheads on Pitch 10 with fat bolts

    I drilled the summit anchor, and we descended. On the pitches with drilling tasks, we fixed the lead rope and I rapped down it, got on jumars, did the work, and rapped to the next anchor. Then Brian unfixed the rope and rapped both ropes normally. It all got done smoothly but took time and we knew we would be hiking out partly by headlamp. As it turned out, we crossed Squire Creek in the last of the dusky light. We dried off our feet, donned headlamps, hiked and biked down to the trailhead, and reached the cars at around 11:00.

    IMG_3150.thumb.jpg.42541d97d62c7b6ce87b5914a4c608b9.jpg
    The C-shaped route

    IMG_3156.thumb.jpg.4dc257b371f792c9a0af157b4df72699.jpg
    On Pitch 11, with the "inverted prow" on the left

    IMG_3164.thumb.jpg.d3fca14eca9d8725867562162e104b84.jpg
    Brian taking the summit shot

    IMG_3167.thumb.jpg.fb64ab370fcd1984a6f6438963582eaf.jpg
    Drilling the top anchor

    20210719_002635000_iOS.MOV
    (an experiment to include a video file, may not work, or may show sideways)
    Replacing a quarter-inch buttonhead on Pitch 10. When drilling out a smaller hole, you have to make small hits, at first, to keep from binding the drill bit

     

    This is now a 14-pitch route, as I measured the remaining rope when Brian reached the "tree belay" atop Pitch 14, and know we could just as well have clambered up the summit blocks to the top. I will be editing the topo and posting it later.

    While descending high on the ridge we saw two climbers topping out on Skeena26. Good to see that route getting some use. The amazing linkup by Kyle and Jenny will have an effect!

    My thanks go to a smart, cautious, and patient partner; good on ya' Brian. And thanks, Kellie, for making the suggestion of a bolt on the 'white hump' on Pitch 14, corroborated by Brian; it is now a better pitch. All photos by Brian Young
     

     

    Gear Notes:
    Standard single rack to 3".

    Approach Notes:
    The boot track now has two detours around winter blowdowns. They are pretty well kicked in, watch for the piles of sticks blocking the original way, and turn right.

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    [TR] Mt Index - North-Middle-Main Traverse 07/10/2021

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    You had a lot more snow on the descent than we did, so you had much more to contend with after an arduous trip. Congratulations on a successful ascent of a great route!

    At the bottom of the difficulties, just above Lake Serene, there are tarns with lovely slabs and boulders to play on. In the relief from being down from such a route, my friend Chuck and I did some easy bouldering in July, 2005.

     

    dsc01217.jpg

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