Know_Fear

Nelson book says 5.7. I looked at it last weekend. I took some beta from Summit Post TR (I think) and went up and right ~100m to a higher crossing point. There was an anchor there, but there's a giant berg on the other side. Doh! The normal crossing looked fine/easy.

I sort of did the reverse last weekend - up Quien Sabe. I think that's the way to go. Glacier in great shape this year. Short, down hill walk from road end to Forbidden trail head. P.S. Bivi permit is a pain in the ass - all gone by Thursday due to the hordes on W. R. Forbidden. Show up early!

I'm planning to climb N. Ridge Forbidden. Has anyone crosses Shark Fin Col recently? Can I rapell it w/ a single 50m rope? Also, it's been years since I descended W. Ridge Forbidden. I believe 50m is sufficient. Been up/down recently?

Here are some details: http://www.oregonlive.com/news/index.ssf/2009/08/portland_climber_rescued_in_re.html

I uploaded several pics to my gallery - search for "sherpa peak." I added a link to one of several photos above. This shows the entire route. This was taken near the bivi site. The other pics show details of the route from below and above and a long shot taken from Colchuck Peak last July.

Trip: Sherpa Peak - NorthRidgeIV58 Date: 9/14/2008 Trip Report: Sorry for the long TR, but I think this route is worth it. And the beta that I could find for it is poor. Some rainy day in the near future and/or before the next alpine rock season I will post more details about the approach, etc. at www.summitpost.com. Send me a PM if you need it sooner. Background: By Northwest (OR/WA) standards Sherpa North Ridge is an excellent alpine rock route. The rock is solid, the setting/exposure are great and most importantly the ratio of good climbing to hiking is high. Protection, jamming and friction are excellent. Having climbed extensively in the West for 20+ years (10 in the NW) – I’m sort of an alpine rock junkie. I think this route is more interesting than other, more popular rock routes in the region, e.g. Dragontail Serpentine Ridge, Mt. Stuart Upper N. Ridge, Prusik W. Ridge, Forbidden W. Ridge, or Triumph N.E. Ridge. It lies just outside the Alpine Lakes permit zone, so no permit or visit to der F.S. station is needed. Route: We climbed the entire N. Ridge. There are roughly three sections. The lower ridge is easy 4th/5th class. We tied in, but didn’t place gear and climbed in our approach shoes. The first section ends with a 25m rap to a notch from slings. The second section is steeper and has many options. We climbed several good 5.7 to 5.8 pitches just left/east of the ridge. We passed several, fun looking 5.8 to 5.9 options. The objective is the top of the large tower which sits two-thirds of the way up the ridge. From that tower - rap 25m from slings to a notch and the “knife edge ridge” mentioned elsewhere. This is more like a knife edge bridge (4th class). The final section has two short, but steep 5.8 pitches followed by several blocky steps. Some steps are 5.8+ but short, and bouldery. The “marginal rock” mentioned by Nelson/Potterfield is actually quite good and only marginal relative to the rest of the rock which is very good. It’s not possible to give the number of pitches because we simul-climbed some, many were short to reduce rope drag and there are variations. We spent about 10 hours on the route. You could bypass the first section. The photos I found online appear to be bypassing the second section as well. Descent: Now the not-so-good news. The descent sucks. In our haste we went right for the descent. I had read to “make two short raps to the S.W., then traverse toward the east…” We saw slings and started down. After a short rap, then a long one. We down climbed then rapped again. Crossing to the east seemed improbably. So, we continued down. Long story here… In retrospect we should have scouted from the summit. Maybe rap’ed toward the S.E.? Somebody needs to post a photo w/ the descent route clearly marked. Crampons/axe are not needed to descend from Sherpa-Argonaut Col in late season (mid Sep). Gear Notes: GearlogisticsIusedoneeachcams5to35theredandyellowAliensacoupleofstoppersand6shoulderlengthslingsAnchorswererocksortreesonthelowertwosectionsAsingle50mropeisfineATRthatIreadsaidthatitsdo-ablecartocarinadayGiventhelengthoftheroutethecomplicatedapproachanddescentandthelackofbeta-IsuggestthreedaysIenjoyagoodsandbagnowandthenbutifyoudothemathyoucanseethisisalongoneBesidesyoumightaswellsavorthisoneThereslotsofwateronthenorthsidebuttherewasnoneontherouteandnoneabovetreelineonthesouthsideReturningviaSherpaColtoabiviisprobablythebestbetThereareplentyplacesatthebaseoftheridgetobiviifyouprefertocarryoverRapingstraightdowntheuppersectionandsecondgullyisconceivable Approach Notes: ApproachTheapproachislongbuttotalelevationgainisreasonableMorethanhalfoftheapproachisofftrailandunmarkedwhichmakesitdifficultNelsonPetterfieldIIIYouloosereferencesontheforestedapproachandrandomcairnsleadtowardroutesonStuartetcItseasytogetsidetrackedWhenindoubterrtowardtheeastThereisadescentclimberstrailalongMountaineersCreekBeyondthattherearealotofdownedtreesandextensivetalushoppingAspiringclimbersshouldscouttheapproachbeforeyoucommityourpreciousvacationtimeAfterseveralattemptswemanagedtohikefromtheStuartTHtothebiviinunderfourhoursItsanother15to2hoursoftalushoppingtothetoeoftheridgePlanon15Xto2XthistimeonyourfirsttryWeaddedsomecairnscoloredtapewhichIwouldntnormallydobecausethisroutedeservesmoreascents

Trip: Sherpa Peak - NorthRidge Date: 9/14/2008 Trip Report: Sorry for the long TR, but I think this route is worth it. And the beta that I could find for it is poor. Some rainy day in the near future and/or before the next alpine rock season I will post more details about the approach, etc. at www.summitpost.com. Send me a PM if you need it sooner. Background: By Northwest (OR/WA) standards Sherpa North Ridge is an excellent alpine rock route. The rock is solid, the setting/exposure are great and most importantly the ratio of good climbing to hiking is high. Protection, jamming and friction are excellent. Having climbed extensively in the West for 20+ years (10 in the NW) – I’m sort of an alpine rock junkie. I think this route is more interesting than other, more popular rock routes in the region, e.g. Dragontail Serpentine Ridge, Mt. Stuart Upper N. Ridge, Prusik W. Ridge, Forbidden W. Ridge, or Triumph N.E. Ridge. It lies just outside the Alpine Lakes permit zone, so no permit or visit to der F.S. station is needed. Approach: The approach is long but total elevation gain is reasonable. More than half of the approach is off trail and unmarked which makes it difficult (Nelson/Petterfield III+). You loose references on the forested approach and random cairns lead toward routes on Stuart, etc. It’s easy to get side tracked. When in doubt – err toward the east. There is a descent climbers trail along Mountaineer’s Creek. Beyond that, there are a lot of downed trees, and extensive talus hopping. Aspiring climbers should scout the approach before you commit your precious vacation time. After several attempts we managed to hike from the Stuart T.H. to the bivi in under four hours. It’s another 1.5 to 2 hours of talus hopping to the toe of the ridge. Plan on 1.5X to 2X this time on your first try. We added some cairns/colored tape which I wouldn’t normally do because this route deserves more ascents. Route: We climbed the entire N. Ridge. There are roughly three sections. The lower ridge is easy 4th/5th class. We tied in, but didn’t place gear and climbed in our approach shoes. The first section ends with a 25m rap to a notch from slings. The second section is steeper and has many options. We climbed several good 5.7 to 5.8 pitches just left/east of the ridge. We passed several, fun looking 5.8 to 5.9 options. The objective is the top of the large tower which sits two-thirds of the way up the ridge. From that tower - rap 25m from slings to a notch and the “knife edge ridge” mentioned elsewhere. This is more like a knife edge bridge (4th class). The final section has two short, but steep 5.8 pitches followed by several blocky steps. Some steps are 5.8+ but short, and bouldery. The “marginal rock” mentioned by Nelson/Potterfield is actually quite good and only marginal relative to the rest of the rock which is very good. It’s not possible to give the number of pitches because we simul-climbed some, many were short to reduce rope drag and there are variations. We spent about 10 hours on the route. You could bypass the first section. The photos I found online appear to be bypassing the second section as well. Descent: Now the not-so-good news. The descent sucks. In our haste we went right for the descent. I had read to “make two short raps to the S.W., then traverse toward the east…” We saw slings and started down. After a short rap, then a long one. We down climbed then rapped again. Crossing to the east seemed improbably. So, we continued down. Long story here… In retrospect we should have scouted from the summit. Maybe rap’ed toward the S.E.? Somebody needs to post a photo w/ the descent route clearly marked. Crampons/axe are not needed to descend from Sherpa-Argonaut Col in late season (mid Sep). Gear/logistics: I used one each cams: .5 to 3.5, the red and yellow Aliens, a couple of stoppers and 6 shoulder length slings. Anchors were rocks or trees on the lower two sections. A single 50m rope is fine. A TR that I read said that it’s do-able car to car in a day. Given the length of the route, the complicated approach and descent, and the lack of beta - I suggest three days. I enjoy a good sandbag now and then, but if you do the math you can see this is a long one. Besides, you might as well savor this one. There’s lots of water on the north side, but there was none on the route and none above tree line on the south side. Returning via Sherpa Col to a bivi is probably the best bet. There are plenty places at the base of the ridge to bivi if you prefer to carry over. Rap’ing straight down the upper section and second gully is conceivable.

Hi, Nice work guys. I have a question about the descent. Kyle I noticed you were asking about it on a Sherpa TR a few weeks ago. I posted this question there as well: Could you provide more details re: the descent from the Sherpa-Argonaut Col? I saw it from a distance last weekend. It looked like there was enough dirt to descend w/o axe or crampons. I'd rather leave them at home. Thanks, Chris

Hi, Could you provide more details re: the descent from the Sherpa-Argonaut Col? Anyone? A saw it from a distance last weekend. It looked like there was enough dirt to descend w/o axe or crampons. Also, what's the hike time up the final ramp to the base of the N. Ridge? Should I bivi near the Col or near the base of the climb? Finally, I've read reports of a direct acsent to the big notch. Did you look at that? Thanks, Chris

Hey everyone, I'll be showing slides Wed, Mar 28th at 7 p.m. It would be great to put some names w/ faces. I'd be up for a beer afterwards. It's at the new Mazama mountaineering center in E. PDX. I put a lot of effort into my photography and shows. I don't think you'll be disapointed. This will be an all digital show. All photos were taken durign the last two years. More than half are ski touring but there's a fair amount of snow and rock climbing too. Topics include: Alpine ski touring: • Icefall lodge Canadian Rockies, B.C. • Battle Abbey hut, South Selkirks B.C. • Mt. Hood area - Tom Dick and Harry, Newton/Heather Canyons, Wy’East Face, Mt. Hood ski circumnavigation and others • Mt. Adams Southwest Chutes • White Pass (north of Goat Rocks) • Mt. Rainier area - Camp Muir and the Tatoosh Range Snow climbing: • Mt. Baker - Coleman and Easton Glaciers • Mt. Rainier - Little Tahoma • Mt. Maude – North Face • Eldorado Peak – East Ridge • Glacier Peak - White Chuck Glacier Rock climbing: • East Wilmans Spire – Southeast Face • Early Winter Spire - Southwest Rib • Ingalls Peak • Alpine Lakes • Cragging – Smith Rock, Tieton Canyon and some secret developments Address, map and phone number: 527 SW 43rd Ave. Portland, OR 97215 503-227-2345 http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&q=527+SE+43rd+Ave.+Portland,+OR+(Mazama+Mountaineering+Center+-+MMC+Your+Adventure+Starts+Here!++503-227-2345)&ie=UTF8&z=15&om=1&iwloc=addr Hope to see you there, Chris

He was working at Red Point - the climbing shop in Bend last time I saw him. They might have some info. It's been more than a year since I saw him last. -Chris

Hi, Re: Glacier Peak – you might as well add the White Chuck Gl w/ the N. Fork Sauk River approach. There’s no telling when the old road will re-open. This is currently the standard route. P.S. there’s now a sizable lake near the snout of the White Chuck Gl. that’s not shown in Becky’s guide book. The lake is a good landmark. The view of Glacier Pk. is obscured at that point during the approach. Becky’s “early season approach” to the White Chuck area is accurate. Re: Forbidden West Ridge – there’s a nice 4th/5th class gully to the west of the snow gully. This is a good option/variation in late season when the gully’s mote is too wide. The best descent from the West Ridge is a bit further west of this gully. There are several rap stations on that descent (loose rock). Could you add Little Tahoma E. Shoulder? This really is a “classic.” Is appears in a couple of guide books but the details are vague – especially the location of the final rock pitches. One of these route descriptions incorrectly rates the route 3rd class. I felt it was a respectical snow climb. The lack of an accurate route description obscures this wonderful route. Re: East Wilmans Spire – snow in the approach gully? Global warming has melted it. Leave your ice tools at home. Re: Mt. Maude N. Face. I didn’t catch your comment (above). But, I think Ice Lakes/Entiat Gl. is a better approach. It's scenic and it adds a couple hundred feet to this already short route. Last but not least for your fans in PDX – please add Mt. Hood, Coe Gl Icefall. Another obscure classic. I’ve done it WI2/3 directly up the center. It appears to be easier now, and a large serrac has been trundling ice down the east side. Regardless, this can be a great ice climb in early season and it deserves classic status. Optional traverse to Snow Dome at mid point is a plus. The Jeff Thomas description is OK. Cheers and thanks, Chris

Hi, Chris Kouba and I are looking for two people to share a ride to Mt. Waddington this summer. Our plan is to drive to Tatla Lake and fly in using White Saddle Air. The destination is flexible. We will narrow it down in the next few months. Dates are also flexible but we would like to spend 10 days near the mountain, plus two days driving in each direction from PDX. We’re both experienced rock/snow/ice climbers. Our objectives will probably include an attempt on one of the standard routes. We don’t expect to have the same climbing objectives. But, the most economical way to do this is to share the cost of the entire flight (both directions). Otherwise we’ll pay more per person. The cost to the Dais Gl. is approximately CAN $3060 + GST for a group of four. We can get the GST back. White Saddle explained that is a high estimate, the north side is a bit closer/cheaper. White Saddle: http://www.whitesaddleair.com/ Serious inquires are welcome. You can send me a PM if you’d prefer. Cheers, Chris Riedener

Any updates on this thread? Would it be possible to stay at White Pass and do the approach each morning? Or, do you generally bivi near the wall?