Jim
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Posts posted by Jim
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Can't avoid a Mountaineer's quote. After doing Prusik Peak we stopped for a break atop Asgard Pass and watched a group of 8 or so moutaineers wobble down the back side of Dragontail. The leader, festooned with 5 ice screws and about 20 hexs comes up and asks "Do you guys know where Dragontail is?". We raise our eyebrows.
They went up Colchuck Glacier to climb something on Dragontail and ended up wandering all around the base. This was supposed to be an instructional class. Classic Mountaineers.
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Thanks Ian, that's a good list of options. And Dr Flash - I've climbed at Smith but haven't done Monkey Face yet - another good one.
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I'm off for some field work in Mt. Hood NF next week and then have a week to roam in Oregon. I'm looking for suggestions for some Oregon peaks, I've only done rock in Oregon. The wife is along so moderate routes would be helpful, rock up to 5.7. Not inclined to do a volcano march. Thanks.
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Heads up on who you can find for an instructor at Tiger. There's a couple of cowboys who are out there regularly. I'd vote for around Chelan where the weather is better and so are the variations in rides.
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I've taken some lessons and have had a few flights solo, the biggest was off St. Helens. I've used borrowed and rented equipment. It's expensive, you could get a decent used rig for about $1,200 and you would definetly want a beeping altimiter. It's fun but it's risky, take lessons. There's a place at Chelan that you can get certified for solo in a week or so. To me the drawback is the weight of the glider and harness. If it were a technical climb I don't know how you would get all your crap back down with you. Maybe this is for the experienced crowd.
If you're starting off the volacanoes are good, eastern WA hills are better. There's a small place off the west side of Tiger Mt. that's decent, though the most efficient way up is to pay this guy for a ride in his pickup.
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Filling it with coffee or something is a good one. Thanks.
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Hmmm. Maybe I just was just unlucky and had the trainees with eagle eyes checking my checked pack. Each time I was snagged after checking the pack, and they found it after it went through the mondo x-ray thing. Then they asked Vat iz dis!
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Help. I've had a bit of a problem lately travelling with a stove and fuel bottle through airports. I've had not problem getting into the country with an empty fuel bottle and a stove, but have now had 3 empty fuel bottles confiscated at the baggage check-in, twice in Salt Lake City, once in Boise. And I had to lie -no, no, no, I borrowed someone else's stove, I don't have one, not me.
The way they've explained it is that it the stove or bottle has ever had fuel in it then you cannot check it. I tried to bury the fuel bottle in the bottom of the pack, but I guess the profile is too obvious. Any one have some tricks to get past the new baggage x-ray machines?
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Sounds like dispensation Mr. Techno wiz.
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Glad everyone is ok but the string is pretty hypocritical. If this were just another newspaper article everyone would be slammin' the climbers for going up in bad weather and being lame-o for doing the dial-o-rescue gig with no injuries.
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Lambone - you're right it can be complicated. Sorry if I sounded a bit strident, didn't mean to. Glad you and you're party are safe at home, and unhurt to climb again.
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I've nothing aganinst cell phones to call friends to let 'em know what's up. It's just the "I got myself into this mess, no one's hurt and I want to go home" syndrome. I did help board two folks on a copter on Denali who had called in a rescue. One was tired, the other a sprained wrist from a hard arrest. Is this what we want rescue folks to risk their necks for? Maybe you do, I don't. It's the increased reliance on someone to bail you out that I don't care for. Sounds like if it were his choice, Mr. Lambone would have chosen otherwise.
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Mr. Lambone,
I agree the guys in the helicopters get a kick out of it. I helped a banged up guy get lifted off the summit of Stuart once and they were stoked.
Then there are the guys who die or lose appedages chasing down wankers.
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Geez Louise - here's my points. Leave the cell phones home. Check out the weather forecast. Climb with people you know can get out of testy situations that you can manage. Be conservative or suck it up.
Have I ever call for a rescue. Once. When my friend took a leader on an alpine rock route in S.A. Had another party help him out with a dislocated shoulder and two broken ribs.
Sounds like the cell-phone call was out of Mr. Lambones control. Too bad.
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I did the traverse a couple of years ago after getting rained out twice before. Personally, I would not consider going without a rope. Crampons are a must for early morning conditions, but I guess you could just time it right otherwise. I rembember stepping over a few crevasses in the fog on the way up to Spider-Formidable col. And there were some Costco-sized crevasses, with recently collapsed bridges on the way up Dome Peak. Good luck.
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Wrongo dude. It's a nutria (Myocastor coypus), an import from S.A. that is found in wetlands in temperate areas. On the east coast they make it as far north as Maryland, but their tails (and who knows what else) freeze off in the winter.
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When I was a kid friends would scramble up hills in the Ca foothills with a car jack to give those big boulders an extra heft. Some of them were really big and would go bonding quite a ways. I think the cops were looking for them for quite a while.
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Kept my skies on except the last 300 feet, skied up and down unroped in mid-spring.
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If your interested in the orginal account you can look it up a the Mountaineers library, but I think you are correct on the peaks. I believe the orginal plan was to include Sahle and Forbidden in the loop. Those guys did Magic, Spider, and Formidable on the same day! Took me three tries to do the traverse because of weather. It's a great route but becomming a bit to popular.
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Bravo! Something different, I like that.
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Ice - What's da Shilshelter. You must be a Gunkie, eh? My old stomppin grounds.
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I've done the bivy thing quite often, but on those longer trips it's nice to get outta the sideways rain. Yea, I'm not sure the single wall thing is the way to go in the PNW.
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I've gone through the posts on tents and I'm still not sure of the utility of a single wall. I spent two months in Patagonia in a Bibler Eldorado, but without the vestibule there's no room to get stuff out of the rain or cook. Why not just go with a lightweight double wall like a Kelty Vortex 2 give the cost of single walls and the need for some storage space in the rainy NW. Suggestions? I've also looked at Hillebergs but they don't look to stable.
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You can also get a good pair of glacier goggles (with shields) and have an optomotrist put in a pair of prescription glass lenses. There is a reason to avoid plastic lenes but I don't remember it. There was an article in Climbing this year.
BASE fatality in Switzerland of NW jumper
in Climber's Board
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Sorry don't know what happened, but I didn't post this to this thread. Honest.