imorris
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Posts posted by imorris
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quote:And lest you think I am talking about the people that ski up logging roads to bond with the woods, I should say that these are not in my opionion true backcountry explorers. Some of these "skiers" are just as clueless as a resort skier -- maybe evem more so because they have neither the skill of a serious skier or those of a backcountry traveller.
I know that guy....the bearded one with the levis soaked to his knees and orange external framepack. Oh wait, that was me in scouts back in the day...minus the beard.
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quote:ALPINE SKIERS = ...blah blah...spend too much $$$ on their gear and clothes though.
And AT gear is dirt cheap? AT has to be the most over-priced stuff out there and people (like me) gladly fork over for it.
Now how much do you want to bet that at least one person is going to chime in with:"Can I ski AT with my <insert climbing boot here>?"
![[sleep]](graemlins/yellowsleep.gif)
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Dunno. But I think that harness requires the BD leather vest and derby to pass UIAA spec.
![[Moon]](graemlins/moon.gif)
...so to speak. -
No less than three
![[hell no]](graemlins/hellno3d.gif)
's on that last post. That's damn serious.![[Wazzup]](graemlins/wazzup.gif)
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Keep yer Texas prussik foot loops on the rope so ya can attach 'em to yer picket or what have ya as a quick anchor while yer lyin' in arrest for yer buddy who submarined into the crevasse yonder.
Do a quick rope pull check before the last rappeller comes down.
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Nice pictures by the way, looks like you had a good time. Those kinds of climbs can be fun in their own way. At least you had the route to yourselves (probably), and you've been to the top before a few times.
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LOL! I was at meadows too thinking the exact same thing! I was the one curled up in a ball mumbling incoherently on the shooting star lift all day. Hard to believe people spend $45 to do that. Meadows thinks big and charges big. I only find it afforable w/ a 10-time pass.
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Thanks for the info. Now I just need to get my british shoe size.
-Iain
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I've noticed that in the UK the Scarpa Denali is marketed as a purplish thing, but from the looks of it, it's the same as the US model. Any info on this? I was thinking of getting a pair.
-Iain
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I believe that there is a reciprocity for WFR recert's between WMI and WMA. Both recognize each others' certifications if you need to recertify. To recert you can take a specific WFR recert class (weekend) or sit in on a WFA class (also a weekend). I'd recommend the former. It's about $250, so they're making a killing off all those WFR's who need recerts every two years. Really you should be practicing and updating informally more frequently than that. I'd like to see WFRs one year into their certification perform as well as those just out of the class.
-Iain
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On the avalanche side of things, the hogsback area has slid before in the right conditions. It has to be fairly severe, but it happens.
Check out:
http://www.csac.org/Incidents/1997-98/Oregon-052398.html
..for an example.
-Iain
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Hope you don't wind up like these guys...classic.
http://www.kgw.com/kgwnews/story.html?StoryID=35002
Good luck,
Iain
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They might plow it out at night. Dunno. I've done it before w/o problems. No new snow though...
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I swear this is the last post I'll put in here, but Walter mentioned the Mazamas avalanche incident a few years ago. Here's an interesting image capture from that incident. Good crown fracture all along the west crater rim.
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cave junction, OR
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You've really got to want it to climb S.Side Hood in bad conditions in winter. You may already know all about this, but you should have some reasonable nav skills (the so-called "triangle" is really not that tough, despite the heards of people who STILL get lost on that decent). Be prepared for some absolutely brutal wind at times. The winter route has the "purification through pain" asthetics of many cascade climbs and has quite a different character than the trad. spring climb. Personally, it has to be absolutely gorgeous outside for me to bother with that route, but then again, I've done it many times before. Perhaps you might want to try it out, despite the weather, but you might change your mind in the waist-deep sludge approaching the hogsback. If anything, it's a great way to get in shape. Here's to a rescue-free weekend.
-Iain
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I'd agree with the Wild Things comment. Their stuff looks like crap.
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Screw it, just rent "K2 - the ultimate high"
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The goal is to have the "This topic is comprised of pages...." thing collide with the "All times are PT" at the bottom of this page. I've got enough Mazamas stories to do some damage. Bring it!
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Pissed at the mazamas? Hey there's nothing wrong with piton aid climbing in plastics on the student wall. Or a pack of 10 on the Early Morning Couloir (who seemed to have a summit of Hood S'side as their previous climb).
Keeps things interesting out there!
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The remarkable, dense flocking behavior and obnoxious nature of the species homo sapiens mountaineeri is often replicated by a close relative, homo sapiens mazamanius, known to frequent the portland, oregon area in great abundance.
Best places to view the mazamanius species and their Everest-style behavior:
Three Fingered Jack, S. Ridge: fixed line to the summit!
Mt. Washington, N. Ridge: fixed line to the summit!
Mt. Jefferson, Milk Creek Gully: late summer, when there is decent rockfall.
Mt. Hood: any route, any time.
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Rappeling with an autoblock on a two-rope rappel up in the Melville Group, Selkirks. The weight of the rope basically stopped all downward progress, and I felt like a total idiot. To crown that event, our rappel rope stuck, and we ended up having to rig a pulley system to pull it down (don't try to get away w/o a ring on a two rope rappel, obviously, I say now). We ended up taking almost twice the time noted in the guide (but those times seem pretty amazing).
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Sorry guys, I got stuck in the bouldering cave at PRG. I couldn't wade back through the rabble to get out the door on Wed. Guess I'm just ticked that I can't stay on some of the V2's there. Man I suck at bouldering.
(I also didn't read this post until it was too late. Next time, I'm in)
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I think the main reason we wound up there at around 6:30 was to avoid traversing Yocum Ridge in the dark. The HW stays shaded for a good amount of time in the morning, and the route itself was totally clean of runnels or debris. It doesn't funnel as badly as Leuthold's, which we checked for rockfall to get a feel for the overall stability that day. It was the traverse over to the HW that caused the problem, and as far as I can tell, that was the only rockfall of the day (watching the route bake in the sun for hours on end :-)) Anyways, thanks for your opinion. And since you are from Terrebonne are you the same R.Pumpington on crag.com.
Iain
Crystal Mountain Rescue
in Climber's Board
Posted
Bwhaahaha and when that six year old winds up on the flats and has to scurry about one-footin' to get to the next slope, cussing up a storm the whole way in his mushroom-colored oversize pants, yeah, I'll admit I'm a little jealous.
Detach, scurry, attach, detach, scurry, repeat as necessary. And it's always necessary.
Jus' kidding. Doesn't matter how you get down the slope. I guess I just hate 13 year old punk kids w/ no f'ing manners, all who seem to snowboard.