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imorris

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Posts posted by imorris

    Black Spider, Mt Hood

    in Newbies

    Posted

    Sorry, didn't check the forum I was in. I've climbed a number of routes on Hood, but I had not found any info on that route. We were eyeing it when we were checking out the Newton Clark Headwall last spring, but were not serious about climbing it. I was just wondering what kind of climbing activity it receives, and from your description, obviously very little. Since I was evacuated off Hood from rockfall on the Sandy Headwall, I'm quite familar with the mountain's delightful rock, and avoid it at all costs. I was also wondering what kind of rock climber I need to be to climb that band on Eliot Headwall, and what pro to take if you have any advice. (maybe no pro at all)

    Thanks,

    Iain

    Wand Length

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    I thought DGPS was largely irrelevant now that SA has been switched off (for the moment), unless you were doing detailed surveys. I used to us DGPS correction for an EPA survey, and accuracy was not much better than what is available from the uncorrected civilian signal today.

    -Iain

    Portland Rock Gym...sucking at last

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    I checked out sportsnation since I work across I-5 in L.O. but the cost was ridiculous (I don't need an indoor soccer field and stairmasters). So I have a PRG membership by default, living in N.E. pdx. I go late Tues/Thurs, so there's only around 800 people there. I haven't had too much of a problem late in the evening, except when someone borrows the mat under you when you are bouldering. Fun times.

    You should be skiing now anyways.-iain

    Cooper spur in winter

    in Oregon Cascades

    Posted

    Have fun waiting for two days of decent weather w/o avi hazard up there. I'd certainly recommend Sandy HW earlier than later. I was bombarded by rockfall off upper Yocum ridge, just before heading up after the traverse across Sandy G. All signs showed the route to be in stable condition. If you are looking for climbing partners, let me know.

    -Iain

    looking for belay pardn'r

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    Looking for someone to climb with Tues/Thurs evenings (around 8ish to 10ish) and other random days at PDX rock gym. [sleep] Fairly new to sport climbing, coming from an alpine mtn'ing background. I'm not a big gym fan, but it's something to do. I've been a member a couple months and haven't bothered to get checked out for belaying there yet! Getting sick of bouldering. [sleep]

    -Iain

    calling all Hood north face winter climbers

    in Oregon Cascades

    Posted

    The typical season on Hood is the first half of the year, but that doesn't stop a lot of people. There are only a few inches of new snow up there now, and glacier crossings would be a bit touchy in my opinion. The Eliot Headwall is sometimes climbed in October, and occasionally forms a long pitch of water ice at this time. Experience on, and hardware for rock and 70 degree snow/ice is recommended. You can descend Cathedral Ridge, or shuttle from Timberline.

    -Iain

    Who Climbed What This Weekend?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Climbed Jefferson Park Glacier, Mt. Jefferson OR this weekend. We thought we might be asking for trouble this late in the year, but it turned out to be a great climb. The glacier is severely broken-up and the two bergshrunds are massive. Finding a line through took more work than usual. We were clouded in, making for some nice alpine ambience. Rolling thunder in the area kept us a little on edge. Climbable, but I'd prefer a Spring trip there.

    -Iain

    Light Mountaineering Boots

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    If it is for the accident 20 years ago, it would be the second time out there this year for this particular mission is it not? I hope you find them and bring some closure for their family. I know how hard it is to leave a search unfinished.

    Good luck,

    -Iain

    Rating on Broken Top's 50' summit fin?

    in Oregon Cascades

    Posted

    You took a right instead of a left at the rim? I'm trying to figure out where you were. I'd say the paths to the summit are all 5.1. It's no harder than Mt. Wash. N. Ridge, and in fact is quite a bit easier in my opinion. I have not been over to the southern summit (which looks quite interesting). Apparently there are a few ice climbs to be had in those gullies.

    -Iain

    Mt. Hood, Cathedral Ridge

    in Oregon Cascades

    Posted

    Climbed Cathedral Ridge from McNeil yesterday. Surprise, surprise, it was a few thousand feet of nastiness, but it's probably the only reasonable way up this time of year. Very high winds. Don't expect a nice ridge exposure climb either. It's not very well defined.

    Which One?

    in Oregon Cascades

    Posted

    If you have a full weekend, I'd recommend linking up Three-Fingered Jack as well. The south ridge is a similar climb to Washington's north ridge. 2 pitches of very easy rock at the top (about 5.1). A nice casual climb so you can do both in a weekend. People solo both of these routes, but I would be remiss to recommend that not knowing your experience on rock. Bring a rope and some sling anyways to rappel if you solo, since the downclimb sucks. Sept is a great time to be on these two routes.

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