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chris_w

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Posts posted by chris_w

    Bad Belay

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by jkrueger:

    quote:
    Originally posted by erik:

    quote:
    Originally posted by glen:

    Knots on rap ropes are certainly a must unless there is abnormal fear of weird ass rope tangling from flakes, etc.

    i disagree...
    OK, I'm curious - why do you disagree?
    I don't always tie knots at the end of a rap line. It depends on the conditions. If it's really windy, the rope can get blown around a corner and get snagged on something you don't see. I've had it happen too many times with the "Always tie knots" thought.

    Bad Belay

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Not quite belaying, but on couple years ago I was walking across the taboo glacier and it made some noises, did a little shaking, and basic scared the shit out of me. Once it was over, I turned to the guy behind me and he had about 10 coils of rope in his hand. I never climbed with him after that.

     

    Yesterday (at exit 38) I watched a guy get lowered by his belay a little too fast. She was lowering him too fast, and she wasn't too close to the rock either. He picked up speed and started complaining like "slow down, watch, hey" so she put the brakes on, it pulled her off balance and towards the rock, so she loosed the grip, he picked up speed again and she put the brake on........

     

    She stopped him before hitting the ground. He didn't look too happy.

    So who climbed what this weekend?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by dbb:

    quote:
    Saturday Climbed OuterSpace. Only 3 other rope teams. But we ended up waiting about 2.5 hours for the team ahead of us.

    I saw that guy hanging on the traverse pitch. They (and you too?) must have gotten a freaking early start.

     

    We left seattle at 6:30 and had Orbit all to ourselves (well, some arachnids). Great route, great weather. Finished up the day by climbing Ski Track Cracks at Sam hill as the sun set. Sweet!
    We left the trail head at 7am, starting climbing at 9am. The first rope team was just starting to do the crux pitch when we got to the 2 tree ledge. We took a nap in the sun and then started the pitch around 11am.

     

    The first group started from the trailhead at 4:30 and then started on the route at 7am.

    So who climbed what this weekend?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Getting out to Leavenworth early on friday I did Cocain connection and Cocain Crack on Icicle buttress. Ended up practicing aid climbing on the crack.

     

    Saturday Climbed OuterSpace. Only 3 other rope teams. But we ended up waiting about 2.5 hours for the team ahead of us.

     

    Sunday - Got up late and played around for my first time in a White Water Kayak.

     

    Awesome weekend.

    Chris

     

    [ 05-13-2002, 10:14 AM: Message edited by: chris_w ]

    New Calendar Feature

    in cc.news

    Posted

    Can you put a pub club\location on the date. Then when you click it, bring up the new poll feature. Close the polls at the end of monday so everyone can look on tuesday for the location.

     

    Then the arguments will be over which pubs to put on the list.

    Leavenworth

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by chris_w:

    quote:
    Originally posted by Dwayner:

    Bro. Chris W. said:

     

    "
    We let
    Passages northwest use half of barney's rubble when they showed up, and we moved our setups to help accommodate the BoAlps."

     

    Did you see that?
    "We let..."

     

    Thank you, sir, may I have another?
    [Roll Eyes]

    Doggone Mounties! Exactly the attitude!
    [hell no]

     

    - Dwayner

     

    Nothing personal, Chris W. I understand that it's difficult to leave the cult.

    Brother Dwayer... Bad choice of words (We let) on my post. It should read something like I worked it out with Passages northwest so that we were both happy with the routes and we could accomplish what what we intended to do.

     

    Opening a can of worms.....

    Is it not the rule of thumb that whoever gets to a route first has the route till they are done with it? I think that applies to small parties but not large ones. Nobody owns the rock\routes. One of my goals was to work with other climbers at the locations we were at and work something out to make everyone as happy as possible. And I think I did that this weekend.

    Leavenworth

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    Besides the mountaineers there was a group of 15 mother\daughters from passages northwest, a group of 25 from the BoAlps class, a group of 40+ from something expeditions (can't remember name) around clamshell. I saw them carrying at least 2 big coolers (3-4 feet long) up the trail. Those were only the groups that I noticed, I'm sure there were more. And I think we played nice with the other groups\climbers. A climbing party asked to climb on Mountaineers dome and we moved our ropes to let them by. We let Passages northwest use half of barney's rubble when they showed up, and we moved our setups to help accommodate the BoAlps.

     

    Dru: We cleaned off all the moss and loose pieces so you can come down and on-sight all those 5.4's we were on [big Grin]

    Mountaineers in Leavenworth this weekend

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by rayborbon:

    If solos qualify then I soloed to the fridge for a beer 20 minutes ago.

     

    I had no reason to wake up before 10 am. Plus I probably drank 3 times what you did too
    [big Drink]
    Then got my arse stomped at Index Sunday on steep rock.
    [big Grin]

    Congrats on the solo. I hope to do that route later today.

     

    You probably did drink 3 times as much as me, I don't remeber kicking Jerry 2 nights in a row [laf] Do you remember the chugging contest we had with Hikerwa? I remember you loosing in that one. Let me know when you want a re-match.

    [big Drink]

    Mountaineers in Leavenworth this weekend

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by rayborbon:

    The real kicker is Hey Chris how many hot chicks in this course. Can I be an instructor if there are at least 10 hotties
    [laf][big Drink]
    ?? I sumbit my resume-

     

    I climbed:

     

    The Tooth

    Ingalls Peak

    Chair Peak NE Butt Solo

    Super Slab

    Midway Direct

    My only climbing requirment is that you can CLIMB out of bed each morningon time. If I remember you didn't get up before 10am at the Rope up last year [big Grin]

     

    Ingalls - Only if you soloed the south peak

    Mountaineers in Leavenworth this weekend

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Descending on Icicle...We will be at 6 areas out of the 50+ that I counted in the guide book. I know...some of them are good classic areas, that is why we are there. We have reserved the Lg camping area so we don't take up all the single sites (for the few of you that pay for camping) and we do carpool from the camping area to minimize the cars on the road and snow creek parking lot.

     

    Question:

    Besides not having any Mountaineers in the Icicle, would you rather have a large group in a couple of areas or a couple scattered over more climbing areas? Let's start a poll.

     

    No offence taken....Unless you meant it [hell no]

    Mountaineers in Leavenworth this weekend

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    To try and answer some questions.

     

    Erik- I leave the area nicer then when I got there. Old boy scout habits. But I can't be watching them all the time.

     

    Kevin P - We are carpooling from the camp grounds to minimize cars along the road. As for the areas close to the road. With as many students that we have it's hard to get everything done in a safe manner if it take 30 minutes to hike up a trail. I would rather have the students on the rock the extra 30 minutes instead of practicing their hiking skills.

     

    Szyjakowski - Plan on staying on the trails and have fun in Mexico

     

    Ray - Have fun in Canda [Cool]

    Mountaineers in Leavenworth this weekend

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Actually it probably was. We did have one guy take a leader fall 5 feet above his last piece. Didn't quite deck, but with rope stretch his feet touched a pilar below him. His piece held and he took his first leader fall. He has now taken more leader falls on gear then I have. I consider since there wasn't any injury that it was good trip. I don't think he had an orange helmet, so maybe it was a different group.

    Mountaineers in Leavenworth this weekend

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    I thought I would post a friendly message that the Everett Basic Mountaineering class will be in Icicle this weekend. The plan is to climb on Bruce's boulder, Barny's rubble, Lower clamshell, Alphabet rock, Roto wall and how can we miss Mountaineers dome.

     

    Sat & Sun, 60 Students and 30 Instructors.

    Teiton closure

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    ROYAL COLUMNS area is OPEN. I was there this past weekend. The ranger is checking for Passes twice a day, and giving out tickets. I don't know about other areas of the Tieton but if you call the WDFW @ 509-653-2390 you can ask for specific areas. I think the closure ends may 1st.

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