chris_w
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Posts posted by chris_w
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Some canadian co-workers came down this past weekend and I noticed an interesting shoe manufacturer? Are they entering the market? Did they have items at the expo in Utah? What's your thought?
Do you get a free subscription with a purchase?
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I did it about this time about 2 years ago. We did it in one long day, 19 hours. The bugs were not that bad for us, but annoying but that can change year to year. We did 3 belayed pitches of ice. Mostly seracs and wandering. We went straight up the ice fall to get as much as possible.
here are some Pics from it
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On a sling. Maybe I'm a wimp or I have a crappy harness but I don't like the extra weight on my harness. The sling makes it easier when swapping gear and easier to adjust if you get in a chimney or wide crack. You can move the sling to your other side and out of the way.
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Crackbolter said:
Question,
Why don't the mounties teach the basic climbing course indoors like many learn from climbing in the gym? Isn't it better that they are focused on learning rather than being gripped from the exposure while trying to learn the basics?
My experience from the Everett Branch.
Some classes are taught indoors, anchor setup, knots, etc.. But it's always better to practice it in real situations. Some of it is just too hard to do in a class room. Ever tried rapping indoors?
Also,
How much experience does the instructor have? A year? Two years tops?
Once again from Everett, I'd say about half the instructors are basic graduates. Completed class, field trips and climbs. They have also gone through an instructor training field trip in the spring to review and expand what they know. The other half are usually more veteran climbers 2+ years. We usually try to group an experienced instructor with a newer instructor. Helps with knowledge transfer and safety.
Last,
Why don't mounties sport climb like the rest of the beginning community? I never understood why it was so important to learn gear anchors right away considering there is so much other stuff to learn first.
Can somone elaborate?
The Basic mountaineering class is just that, basic. I think the hardest basic climb is like 5.4. You don't get that vertical like you do in sport. When was the last time you found a 5.4 sport route
Sport climbing works more on climbing skills where the class teach more of everything. Once the students know their knots and know how to use them, they are encourage to go and top rope some climbs on their own. I have seen groups of students heading to leavenworth for the weekend. Once you have all the basics, then you can expand on them. It's probably easier to teach a student better climbing skills, then someone with sport climbing experience how to setup for crevasse rescue.Chris
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I bought a Sony TRV-19 Digital video camera to use on Denali. It weighs about 2.5 pounds, no protruding parts to break off and most of the ports are covered so no dirt can get in. It cost $599 and was their low end model. The only difference between them is the one that I have has a black and white viewfinder and doesn't take stills onto removable media. The resolution on the stills was low (800x600 or 1024x768) and I couldn't justify it for the extra $100. It has a carl Weiss lens (everyone says it's good) 120x zoom (10 optical, 12 digital). The 2.5 inch LCD panel is touchscreen so it worked good with gloves on. I bought a 2 or 4 hour battery but it lasted me 8 hours because I couldn't use the LCD panel with all the sun in alaska. It uses the mini-DV video tapes, so that keeps the size down. It has I-Link\firewire (IE 1394) connect for downloading to your computer. I have been able to download the video to my computer with no problems. It's not fully supported by adobe premier, but enough to download the video.
I'd recommend it. Had no problems with it up to 18,000 feet and below 0 temps.
chris
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texplorer said:
Rumor has it that some yahoo euros finished the log off on purpose way back in the day and were welcomed by getting their asses kicked by some valley locals.
I know one person in the group that helped push the log off. She was a Member of YOSAR from 83-89. They thought it was way to dangerous and pushed it off. Didn't hear anything about any ass kicking involved.
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You can get to camp schurman without touching snow. After you leave glacier basin, cross the stream and follow a trail up to the ridgeline. Once on the ridgeline there iis a trail that goes over mount ruth and continues towards steamboat prow. Just before the top it traverses along the left side and heads down to camp schurman. It's basically a steep nasty dirt pile. It could be tricky for someone with less scrambling experience. I was glad to have the trekking poles to keep me balanced. On the way of out of schurman and down to glacier basin, the snow is much much easier then then going over mount ruth. It was late morning so we didn't use crampons but did use an ice axe. The crevass are open on both the emmons and inter glacier. There was an easy trail to follow on both glaciers this past weekend.
Chris
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Biff can show only if we have it at your place
I only heard about part of the mess he left in talkeetna -
I have a pair of Solomon mountain 8's and love them. They are sooooooo comfy. If they haven't changed the design around the heel, you can expect he stitching to rip after 1-2 years. Dave page says he sees them all the time with the same problem. I use them for everything. No Breakin time was necessary.
I also have a pair of makalus. They are very stiff and I don't like them as much. I think they work a little better in the snow. I might have gotten them a little to big and only use them in the winter time when I need to wear 2 pairs of socks. I use them on my split-board in the winter because of the step-in compatible crampons, one thing the solomon's don't have.
Best suggestion is to try them all on, walk around and see what fits the best. When I bought the solomon, I took them home and wore them for a day, returned them, got a bigger size and wore them for a day and kept them.
My $.000002
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Carolyn - There is a lot to climb in leavenworth. If you get off the classic routes on the Snow Creek Wall or anything that has more of a 10 minute hike in I don't think you won't be seeing top rope lines. I climb to avoid the crowds also so I hope to avoid those areas, but show up later for the campfire and beer. It'll be a good time.
If you really wanted to you could drive back to index during they daytime while everyone is in leavenworth and have the place to yourself.
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I'd say not to worry about it. I have had toes go numb for a couple of hours after descending a steep trail to a couple of weeks from an alaskan peak. You'll forget it's numb and next thing you know the feeling is back.
Now if it is numb and changing color...........that's not so good
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I'll be in the valley the last 2 weeks of sept, maybe running into October. Back in time for the rope-up and then a longer trip down south.
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There is snow part way up gully to the ridge Also a snow patch just before the slab, and another if you do the rap and 4th class finish. On the summit there is still a lot of snow just southwest of the summit block. The summit snow will be there for a while, the one by the slab I'd give 1-2 weeks.
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iain said:Greg_W said:chris_w said:
It's a down down coat from a local clothing manufacturer in seattle, across from the REI.
Is "down down" better than regular down?
It's a down jacket by FUBU when you want to be down like the other playaz on the block. It is particularly down when it's 900 degrees outside, or raining, and your jeans are baggy enough to hide a piece or ten.
It goes great with a down down hat in the summertime to block the sun.
where the graemlin with the winter hat -
fern said:
the first thing that comes to my mind is this thread
the second thought is what is a feathered friends volant
It's a down down coat from a local clothing manufacturer in seattle, across from the REI. Great gear, but a little pricey.
http://www.featheredfriends.com
They got their new website up. Much better now.
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I bought the van specifically because the VW was underpowered, I couldnt affoard a Eurovan, the Toyota had 4WD, and because I hate having to crawl into the back of a pickup when pulling off the road at night. Its a unique vehicle, very well suited to the needs of a road-tripping climber.
That is basically why I am getting it. I don't want to crawl or get out of my vehical when I want to sleep. Most Pickup beds are only 6ft so I barely fit into them. I'm also used to underpowered cars. I have a saturn
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Yup, know about the tools and blowing engines. I have been looking for non-westy pop-tops (weekender editions)but can't seem to find any on the market.
thanks erik
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I'm planning on getting a VW minivan for a 1-2 month (or longer) roadtrip. I've never owned one and don't know much about them. I'm sure there are a few climbers out there that have owned them.
Any info\suggestions would be appreciated. Anything about common problems, annoyances or just about anything. I have done research on the internet from VW sites but looking for firsthand info from climbers. I am looking in the 1985-90 with at least a pop-top.
Thanks
chris
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I have the NG TOPO software and love it also. I had a problem when I upgraded to a new version. Sent TS an e-mail with the problem and they had a patch for me the next day that fixed the issue. I also use it with the GPS and it's pretty simple to use. It's great to print out custom maps for the exact location you are going to. The new version (3.x) lets you create custom size maps for use on websites.
ex: http://www.shakingleg.com/Denali/Approach/Denali_Route.JPG
I haven't used other software so can't really compare.
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I like the place. Wasn't too smokey, had great beer selection, looked like a good menu, Erik the bartender was really cool.
Did I also mention he would through in a couple of pitchers next time we come back?
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For you coffee drinkers, let the Oracle of starbucks tell you about your personality.
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Tuesday is ladies Night!!! We'll have to get the 4 ladies that show up to buy all the
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Kort Haus
"Good Food-Good Friends-Good Times.Drinks & Burgers on Phinney Ridge"
Exotic & Traditional Burge
Happy Hour 4:30-6:30pm
Vegetarian Menu
“The burgers here are worth the trip. Friendly patrons and a great bartendar. Good selection of draft beer. Perfect neighborhood pub.”
26 Beers & Jagermeister on Tap.
Amateur 8 Ball Tournament Every Sunday
7pm - $5 Entry
Ladies’ Night Tuesday 8-11pm - $2 Well Drinks and Beer Specials
Taco Thursday-Build Your Own 6:30-10pm.
Kitchen Open 11am-1am
Menu Highlights:
Exotic meat Burgers including Alligator, Antelope, Black Bear, Buffalo, Camel, Caribou, Elk, Kangaroo, Llama, Ostrich, Reindeer, Venison, wild Boar, Yak
Vegetarian Menu
Fried Mushrooms, Cheese Sticks, Veggie Style Hot Dogs or Corn Dogs.
Dryad Vegetarian Platter with a mix of jalapeno poppers, zucchini sticks, mushrooms, onion rings & cheese sticks.
VeggieBurgers, Portabello Mushroom Burger, Veggie Buffalo Wings, Meatless Ta
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I'll be there. Indoor climbing is better then no climbing
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Is that the German bar just north of the Red mill? I've been meaning to check that place out sometime.
yosemite in september
in Climbing Partners
Posted
I will be there 15\16 - Oct 3rd and have a seat open in my van if anyone needs a ride.