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chris_w

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Posts posted by chris_w

  1. I'd suggest making a call. I think the closures changed this year. It used to be only certain areas that were closed. I remeber either reading or talking with one of the people in charge that they were just going to have a blanket closure for the whole area until XXX day. May 15 sticks in my mind. I can't find the information on their site anymore.

     

     

  2. Attitude said:

    In Washington:

     

    SnoPark Permit: $20

    Groomed Trails Permit: $20

    NW Forest Pass: $30

    Washington Fish and Wildlife Parking Permit: $12

    Mt. Rainier Annual Pass: $30

    Mt. Rainier Annual Climbers Permit: $ 25

    Mt. St. Helens & Mt. Adams Annual Climbing Permit: $30

    Olympic National Park Annual Pass: $ 30

    Olympic National Park Wilderness Use Fee: $ $5

     

    Mount Rainier Annual Pass ($30) + Olympic National Park Annual Pass ($30) = National Park Pass ($50)

  3. Here is a review for split boards I did earlier this year.

    http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB9&Number=119308&page=4&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1

     

    I have problems with traversing on a hard pack. It just doesn't bite into the snow as much as I want. With some practice and cussing I have been able make it up most tracks that skiers have put in now. I am probably going to get the crampons for the harder snow traverses.

     

    It takes me under 5 minutes to convert the board from 2 planks to 1. I use the Mountain plate bindings which are easy to get in\out. I loose some performance but if your in the deep stuff it doesn't matter.

     

    I have been very happy with my board. I was surprised how well I could handle the board with a 45 pound pack while decending from muir.

  4. Cascades\Alpine

    -North Ridge of Stuart

    -Serpentine Ridge - Dragontail

    -Rainier (any route, haven't done it yet)

     

    Aid routes

    -South Face of Washington Column - Yosemite

    -Liberty Crack - North Early winter spire

     

    Wish list

    -Too many to list

  5. I wanted to do more backcountry boarding\climbing but didn’t want to be pack up my 15 pound snowboard each time. I also wanted to use my mountaineering boots for approach and descent. I didn’t find many reviews so I did my own testing and here is what I came up with.

     

    There were 3 manufacturers that I found had split boards: Burton, Voile, and Prior (using voile hardware)

     

    I was able to test the Burton and the Prior. I didn’t find anyplace that would rent the voile. I heard that Glacier has a place that rents them but didn’t have any plans for baker so I never called. Cascade Crags rented the Burton and Prior rents out of whistler.

     

    Burton

    - Board rode nice on hard-pack and powder (Better then my regular board)

    - Binding setup seems more delicate then the voile hardware (the person that rented it after me said the binding plate broke. It was replaced under warranty.)

    - When clamping board together you have to be careful not to get snow around the clamp or bring a brush to clean it out. I had this problem each time and froze my fingers trying to clean it out.

    - Priced over $1000

     

    Voile

    - Didn’t find a place to rent and the rep didn’t help that much.

    - Heard it was not very stable

    - $659

     

    Prior

    - The voile hardware that it uses is not as delicate as burton, but there is a pin that you could loose. There is a thin cable that I will attach directly to the binding so I won't loose it.

    - Voile has a binding that works with crampon compatible boots.

    - The customer service reps was great. They delivered the board to my hotel in whistler.

    - About $700 US

     

    I ended buying a prior board (176cm) with Voile mountain plate bindings. I have taken it out 3 times using my makalu boots and it works good. I lose about 30% performance by using mountaineering boots but you don’t need to as precise when you are in powder and in more open terrain. It’s a little bit wider then most board (27cm). I figured it would help since I have big feet, but if you in the powder it shouldn’t make a difference. I hope to take it out on a deep powder day with my regular bindings to see what I can really do with it. The big difference for me between the burton & prior was the price and the snow getting in the clamp when changing setup.

     

    It made a difference this weekend. Another boarder in our party was using snowshoes and it the low snow he past post holing it up to his knees as times. The skins save quite a bit of time on the approach and then had a good 3000 foot run from summit to car in one long run.

     

    Chris

     

     

     

  6. I saw it last night at REI but didn't take a look at it. Is it a lot better then the old one?

     

    I also noticed there is a new\revised exit 38 guide book out. Didn't get a chance to look at that one either.

  7. I suggest a Dell over HP or gateway. I have been buying dell for 3 years and have no problems with them out of the box. Can't say that for apple or gateway, and I am a mac fan. I even bought dell refurb laptops and have had no problems with them. We had older gateway laptops and they kept acting up and some of the plastic connectors kept breaking off.

    As for an apple laptop it cost $1600 (apple price) for an ibook with a 14inch screen (I don't suggest going any smaller) and their resolution is usually low (1024X76). The apple doesn't come with office where the dell laptop does. A $100 difference.

     

    For $300 less you can get a dell P4 1700mhz with office and a better screen.

     

    Chris

  8. I think the more you climb (harder routes), the better you get. I was mentally stuck at leading a 5.10 route for a couple of years. I know I could physicaly climb it but I had mental barrier. I would usually be the better climber out of my normal partners. So I didn't try anything that hard.

     

    I just got back from a week of sport climbing at owens river gorge with a ropegun that would put up 11c routes for a warm-up. I would then get to top rope it just to work on technique. I was able to work through most of the climbs after hanging once or twice. I think this helped me understand where my climbing ability is at. When I got back to the PNW I was feeling strong and this past saturday I went to index and lead my first clean 10a gear route (Jap Gardens). I think I have broken my barrier to climb harder. I still think I would climb harder if I fell on my gear a couple of times. I still haven't taken a leader fall on gear yet in 6 years.

     

    Good topic

    Chris

  9. I had one on Sahale. We didn't see one person the whole weekend. We also didn't take snowshoes and it took us 7 hours to go from cascade pass to the summit. Postholed to our knee's the whole time. We made it back to our tent at dark and decided to take a short cut straght down the pass. We ened up veggy belaying on some steep nasty stuff for a couple of hours. Basically lost and tried to use a compass to navigate but the only bearing we could see was Jburg. We ended up being 20 feet from the picnic area.

     

    I got a great picture of Jburg with the sunsetting behind it. One of my favorites.

    J-burg

  10. I have been comparing bibler and Intergral design tents also. Here is some what I have been told

     

    Bibler uses a lighter ripstop nylon, 1.1oz where Integral uses 1.6oz. Bibler adds a coating for fireproofing where ID doesn't. If you catch your tent I fire, I think you have other problems.

     

    compare Vents. ID probably has the advantage there.

     

    Price: Once again ID has it there.

     

    Then compare the size. Bibler has a little more room to spare. 2 big guys would work better in the bibler. I'm not sold on either one yet. I have used a bibler but not the ID. I hope to use one Soon.

     

    Chris

  11. I have a nice 1 inch scar right below my index knuckle. While washing a glass, I shoved my hand in it and twisted. A piece of the glass cracked off and I got a nice bleeder. I just slapped a band-aid on it. I was in college and didn't want to pay for the stitches, so it's a nice scar.

  12. I'll be drinking with you guys in spirit. I will be starting early today if anyone wants to join in. Starting at 8:30pm (Central european) which is 11:30am (pacific time) [big Drink]

     

    Meeting place: Augustiner Beer Hall, Munich Germany. Drinking the 1 liter steins.

     

    See you all next week

    [big Drink][big Drink][big Drink][big Drink][big Drink]

  13. For those of you who didn't make it last year.

    The group campgrounds at Bridge Creek was great. Enough for 20-30 cars, They bring in honey buckets, plenty of camping and you won't disturb other campers because they are far enough away. Big area for campfire, icicle creek is close by. The only disadvantage is the price, I think $150 for the weekend. If 30 people show up, $5 a person for the weekend. If you park in the group campsite you don't have to have a parking pass like Vantage. Not to mention you won't get covered in dust\sand all weekend.

     

    Did I mentions trees also?

     

    My vote for L-worth.

  14. quote:

    Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

    I've been to Bavaria. You better get your ass over to the Oktoberfest.

     

    Oktoberfest 92, München.-

     

    Several of us chugging beers in brew tent. Some genius decides we should make a toast about something dumb. One of us insists on toasting the mugs with much efforts (basically smashing them together). On our next toast we smash a few liter mugs and the Kneffler gets his hand cut open. Off to the emergency room for stitches.

     

    Meanwhile my roomdog is hungry for a giant pretzel but has no money. I offer to loan 10 marks as he approaches the preztel man. He takes a pretzel and when the guy confronts him to pay he realizes he has no money again in his pockets. So he gives pretzel man a right hook and goes dashing into the crowd. Later caught and arrested by the Polizie (sp). GENIUS.
    [laf]

    My ass will be flying into munich next wednesday. Right into Oktoberfest. But my plans don't include getting arrested. [big Grin]

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