MountainMan

To the guys who climbed Buck/Fortress on 7/13-7/17 ... you left your [big] ziplock bag full of trash 400 feet below the summit of Fortress. What kind of gaper leaves this much trash behind? It's not like it was hidden ... it was sitting there blatantly on a big ass boulder ... hard to miss. Whatever happened to pack it in/pack it out? Your ziplock was clearly labeled ... Buck/Fortress 7/13-7/17. I packed your trash out myself, but next time you should pay more attention to what you're doing.

I'm planning a trip to the W. Ridge of Forbidden this weekend, and heard Caveman talking about bergschrund problems. Can anyone report their first-hand experience with any complications with the bergschrund in the W. Ridge Couloir this year?

Hey Klenke, I climbed Fortress Tuesday and Wednesday and noticed your entry in the summit register. Something about loose and airy, exposed 3rd class. I'll echo that as well ... we ascended the SW ridge and descended a [steep] 4th class gulley on the East Face. It was UGLY. Very loose, and very steep. Is there a better way down that thing? We descended about 250m Southeast from the summit along the SE ridge and stayed to the right of a steep, prominent E. facing ridge. I tried to follow Beckey's beta, but didn't see what the heck he was talking about, so I took the MountainMan 2002 variation instead. Luckily it worked out OK.

Isn't past your bedtime?

[ 07-18-2002, 04:41 PM: Message edited by: MountainMan ]

_ [ 07-18-2002, 04:41 PM: Message edited by: MountainMan ]

[ 07-18-2002, 04:42 PM: Message edited by: MountainMan ]

Road is open all the way to the Cascade Pass parking lot. I'm not sure about trail conditions.

Black Peak at 9 years old.

Drill it.

I climbed the east side last weekend for my first trip to the summit. It's an ugly mountain and I wouldn't wish it upon anyone. What top 100s are worse in the Pasayten? I've climbed a few (Robinson Mountain, Big Craggy, West Craggy, Azurite) and they weren't too bad. I'm going back in for Monument, Lake Mountain, Blackcap, and then Jack Mountain later on this summer. Are they choss piles too? I couldn't imagine anything worse than Boston when it comes to loose and chossy. One of my dad's buddies died on Boston Peak some years back as a result of the loose rock.

Little Tahoma. Chossiest POS I've ever climbed. Boston ranks right up there though (and come to think of it, Azurite was bad too). [ 07-12-2002, 04:23 PM: Message edited by: MountainMan ]

Climbing is my life.

I completely agree Klenke. I think it's BS that Horseshoe "Peak" is on the original list, but since it is I've got to get it. Oh, and Boston [Chosston] shouldn't be on there either for the Choss factor. Thanks for the pic Caveman. [ 07-11-2002, 09:22 PM: Message edited by: MountainMan ]

I too was there last weekend. There were several snowboarders and some skiers up there. Last weekend you could ski all the way down to below cascade pass (veering right just before cascade pass traversing the hillside). There's probably been some significant melt out since then, as there was quite a bit even over the 2 days I was up there. I've never used rope on Sahale, but like someone above me said, it really depends on your own personal comfort level. Have fun.

Yeah, it's the summit just west of Buckner on Ripsaw Ridge. I was up there this past weekend but didn't know it was even a named peak so I didn't think to look at routes. Now that I know it's a peak [top 100], I'm interested in climbing it.

BTT

I'm looking for beta on Horseshoe Peak. I would like to do it in a day and am wondering if there are any class 2/3/4 routes on it? I prefer not to bring rope for a one day ascent. Thanks in advance for your [serious] response.

I didn't actually hear or feel the buzzing/electricity ... my climbing partners did. This was after I had already signed the register. My account didn't accurately reflect the timing of the events. But even if I did hear the buzzing before I had signed the register, I probably would have gone up and signed the register anyway. It probably isn't the safest thing to do, but neither is climbing mountains. Was that you descending from the summit of Sahale towards Boston Peak on Sunday at around 11:30ish?

I didn't get a look at the gap between Booker and Buckner because it was clouded in when we reached the summit, but I suspect with the conditions that we encountered that there wouldn't be a problem getting to Park Creek. There's still quite a bit of snow up there for July, but things were melting out rapidly. I used crampons and a 75cm Grivel Air Tech. No second tool needed ... although a second tool would make things a little bit easier and more comfortable (I'm not sure it's worth the extra weight though). Good luck on your climb. [ 07-08-2002, 04:04 PM: Message edited by: MountainMan ]

Myself and 2 others climbed the N. Face of Buckner this weekend. The Boston Glacier is in beautiful shape ... we had no problem traversing the glacier from Boston Peak to the base of the N. Face. We camped on the Boston Glacier just below ripsaw ridge and left camp at 6:30 this morning to traverse to the base of the route. On the face the snow was quite soft, so there was little protection, but the views were spectacular (Thunder Basin, Primus and Tricouni, Jack, Eldorado, Boston, Sahale). It started raining on us at about 7800', and it was still raining on the summit. Since the summit was clouded in, and we felt (and heard) static electricity, we stayed on the summit just long enough to sign the summit register and headed down the Southwest side for the traverse back to Sahale Arm. Once we dropped down onto the Davenport Glacier the sun came out and Buckner was completely unobscured. If you're looking to do the N. Face, now is a great time.

Open to Cascade Pass???

Spray is gay. [ 07-04-2002, 10:14 AM: Message edited by: MountainMan ]

By Dennis Harmon's "logic", this board has no purpose. So my question to Dennis Hummergiver (err.. Harmon) ... is why are you here in the first place? Last I checked, this was a climbing board. Climbers generally get info from climbers boards. Before the days of bulletin boards, climbers would talk to other climbers and ask for beta .. now they ask other climbers for beta using the internet (i.e. this bulletin board) -- is it sinking in yet Dennis [i doubt it]. What's your major malfunction? If it's wrong to ask route information on a climbing board, pray tell .. what is this board for? Is it for flunkees like you to hide behind their avatar and talk a bunch of shit to people who would probably kick your ass in person? Yardbird. [ 06-28-2002, 08:04 PM: Message edited by: MountainMan ]

I don't have any info for you on the route, but I sure would appreciate it if you would post a trip report when you return .. I have plans for Jack in July.