fleblebleb
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Posts posted by fleblebleb
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HARHARHAR ChucK, that made me laugh.
Hey, is anybody else thinking that a whole discussion about (a) going light, and (b) multi-day trips and forecasts, and © both at the same time, is just waiting to happen here...?
Bring on the spray
![[big Grin]](images/icons/grin.gif)
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I was there 10 days ago and typical year or not, Goat Boy's Glacier Peak description is pretty much right on the money.
In good weather the climb is more like an easy hike. By the time we descended, after hanging out on the summit in sunshine and no wind for a good long while, the snow had softened up to the point where crampons were quite unnecessary. The freezing level was at 12000' that weekend.
We climbed the Sitkum with a bivi in Boulder Basin, you can stay on snow above that. I liked the area enough to want to go back up there by Frostbite Ridge next year, but only car-to-car and running the approach trails. The bugs are really nasty and the approach quite a slog with plenty of opportunities to get lost after missing a trail fork etc.
Olympus... don't know yet but I'll be there in early September
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If anyone has gotten a look at the NE Face of Fury within the last couple of weeks or so I'd like to hear about it. Post a reply or PM me.
Thanks/Stefan
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Look, it's not Lou! Hah-haha, destroyed your silly little thread
![[Moon]](graemlins/moon.gif)
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You could also do the duct tape but skip the incisions.
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Maude, Seven-fingered Jack, the rest of the Entiat Range for all I know.
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The rap stations from the summit down the gully on the western side of Cutthroat didn't give me that warm happy feeling...
The first two were OK.
The third consists of tied runners that are threaded through a cavity behind a flake. The flake is attached above and below the cavity but isn't confidence-inspiring. The only possible backups (not completely independent of the flake) are tiny cams (we didn't have any) or a pink tricam.
The fourth and fifth stations are small-to-medium, stunted trees - and they're really, really, really dead.
We climbed the South Buttress and would probably have rapped the route if we'd known this beforehand.
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Nelson/Potterfield say that the exact itinerary has never been repeated, can't remember which of the two books.
I'd like to read the Harvey Manning article after seeing your review - where can I find The Mountaineer 1958? Mountaineers clubhouse? Won't they be mean to me for posting on this bboard?
[ 07-09-2002, 04:49 PM: Message edited by: fleblebleb ]
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Feathered Friends has Kayland Multi Tractions, same kind of boot.
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Amazing - 13 days! Thanks Lowell. So they started on July 19th and finished on July 31st, and I also missed two peaks - Old Guard and Spire Point.
Ehrm, what's a tricouni?
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Hey... I've been trying to piece together the original itinerary of the Ptarmigan Traverse by Bressler et al.
Beckey's green book has been my best source. It has a description of the Traverse in the approaches section and also mentions the Ptarmigans in the sections for each (?) of the peaks that were climbed.
I've seen the Traverse mentioned in several other books but little detail.
Here's what I've got so far:
July 21 1938: Dome Peak Traverse
23 : Sentinal and Le Conte
25 : Magic, Spider and Formidable
26 : Johannesburg
28 : Sahale, Buckner by the North Face
I'm guessing they started out on July 20 and headed back on the 29th, making it a 10 day trip? Am I missing any peaks? Did they summit Boston or settle for traversing the flanks on their way to Buckner? What were their campsites?
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Yeah, or
![[big Drink]](graemlins/bigdrink.gif)
and a ![[chubit]](graemlins/cheeburga_ron.gif)
Lowell, when will you publish your book? After reading this post I wanted to find out more about the Isolation Traverse and the other routes that were linked together - I had only heard of the Ptarmigan Traverse (silly me...).
I found some information in the subject index section of the Alpenglow site, but not very much. Can you point to more reading material outside of old club journals and the like?
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To Dennis, I say again: Go scuba dive in the shit pits next to the Muir Hut.
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quote:Originally posted by iain:quote:Originally posted by fleblebleb:ScotterixIs that some character from the Asterix cartoons?
![[Confused]](images/icons/confused.gif)
Yup, also posts here. -
Hey Dennis-the-troll why don't you go scuba dive in the shit pits next to the Muir Hut? Then Scotterix will probably have another fit and we'll all have another hundred pages of excellent spray to look forward to!
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I have a Whisperlite and a fancy Primus cartridge stove.
The Whisperlite is really nice, but it has to be cleaned thoroughly every now and then. And it's tricky to prime it without the blowtorch/flamethrower effect.
The Primus is tiny, very light, and I really like it. The downside is that they're ridiculously expensive - I found one on sale after waiting and waiting... I haven't used it above 7000' yet, but at 6800' it worked like a champ.
Why is the Bibler system better than the MSR? Does it enclose the entire stove? Isn't that a lot heavier? What's durability got to do with it, how much abuse is a stove hanging setup going to take?
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No, that's only used for rescue situations.
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Buy the kid a bolt kit?
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And this...
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The legislation I just mentioned...
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Dave Dittrich
dittrich@speakeasy.net
---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 09:19:43 -0700
From: Scott Silver
To: Scott Silver
Subject: Permanent Recreation Fee Legislation Introduced
The second, of several recreation-fee and recreation-infrastructure pieces
of legislation was introduced in the Senate on Tuesday of this week. The
bill can be read at: http://thomas.loc.gov/cgi-bin/query/z?c107:S2607:
It should some as NO SURPRISE that this legislation was introduced during
the American Recreation Coalition's "Great Outdoors Week"
(www.funoutdoors.com). I only wish I or some member of the general public
could have been inside the meetings ARC must have had with the sponsor of
this legislation, Senator Bingaman (D-NM).
This bill appears to be on an extreme fast tract. A Senate hearing has
already been set for next week, (June 19, 2002 at 9:30 AM)
http://energy.senate.gov/cfdocs/e_witnesslist.cfm?id=288
Needless to say ... this is "crunch time" for everyone who has been working
so hard to end forest fees!!
With the national Day of Action to end forest fees coming up on Saturday, I
wish to say "Good Luck" and offer a sincere "THANK YOU" to everyone who will
be participating. Thirty Demonstrations are scheduled in nine States, thanks
to the help and efforts of so many of you copied on this message.
When we all shout in unison on Saturday it will be our voice that is heard
above the voice of the recreation special-interests for whom the Recreation
Fee Demonstration Program has been created. Day of Action details can be
viewed at:
http://www.wildwilderness.org/docs/2002doa.htm
Scott
PS... The first bill in the current series of recreation-fee-related bills
applies only to the National Parks. That bill can be read at:
http://thomas.loc.gov/cgi-bin/query/z?c107:S2473 and it was introduced by
Senator Craig Thomas (R-WY).
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Scott Silver
Wild Wilderness
248 NW Wilmington Ave.
Bend, OR 97701
phone: 541-385-5261
e-mail: ssilver@wildwilderness.org
Internet: http://www.wildwilderness.org
June 15, 2002 is National Day of Action to PROTEST FOREST FEES.
For additional information contact us or see:
http://www.wildwilderness.org/docs/2002doa.htm
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
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This just posted to the UW climbers club mailing list.
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Final call. National Fee Demo day of protest is tomorrow in Seattle
at REI at 11:00. A good editorial ran in the P-I today about it:
http://seattlepi.nwsource.com/opinion/74540_feedemo14.shtml
My research (and a new letter) is at:
http://eve.speakeasy.org/~dittrich/nwba/end-the-fdp.html
(I wish I could be there, but I have to fly out of town early tomorrow
morning. I hope the turnout is high, as Congress just introduced
fast-track legislation to make fees permanent. Call or write today,
and show up for the protest, or fees may become permanent in a couple
of weeks!)
--
Dave Dittrich
dittrich@speakeasy.net
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High resolution atmospheric pressure graphs for Seattle.
Geeky, but sehr cool
[ 06-05-2002, 05:44 PM: Message edited by: fleblebleb ]
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Crossing my fingers hoping Bronco doesn't run into Bug on the trail... heh...
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Whatever Cavey. I'll do as I damn well please
Climbers stuck on Glacier
in Climber's Board
Posted
Right 'Tude, "light is right is Twight". Let me go look up his words of wisdom on three day carryover rambles on the standard routes of PNW volcanos, with scenic summit camping for the views etc.
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Dang. Can't really find anything in that book that applies. Wait! Except maybe the title, which seems to imply that the gospel is a bit irrelevant to Lammy's adventure? Hmm...