mike_holman

Hmmmm...where was this picture taken???

Nice concise report - congrats on your good work!

Done W.Mac Spire 3 times. The trail up (big cairn) leaves the logging road after 4 miles (2+ hrs) just after a big creek crossing, get lotsa water there. Ascend 3000' to heather benches, where trail levels and crosses 2 big creek gullies. Expect NO water this year in the first, and maybe none in the 2nd - last July we had to head up the 2nd creek for 20 min before finding some small springs/pools. The next water is 2 hrs further, so you better find some. The descent below the notch is will be dangerous steep loose crap by now (helmets!), but if you stay to the right side by the wall going down, stay close together, or never climb above someone, no problem. Ropes are not needed, you should stay on the perm, snow fields below the Terror Gl, but takes axes, esp. for the glissading. This climb is a real haul but worth every effort.

If you are going via Spider Gl., head up over the ridge above, drop into and cross Phelps Basin and climb Chiwawa from the east or south side, the return down the Lyman Gl., skirting it to the west, then complete the loop through Spider Gap. The loop is shorter than up & back via Lyman and a lot more interesting.

Lyman Gl. from Spider Gap up&back is way too boring. We made a nice round tripper in mid-July by ascending the ridge north of Red Mtn from the base of the Spider Gl. dropped into Chiwawa Basin and approached Chiwawa from the SE side. You can exit the snow and work cl.3 ledges & gullies to the Fortress-Chiwawa saddle and scramble up or you can take the obvious snow/rock ramp directly to the east ridge below the summit and scramble the ridge from there. We returned via Lyman Gl. via Spider Gap. There was lots of bare ice at the base of the upper Lyman, so I think I might do this in reverse now, but it probably makes no difference. Anyway, it makes for a nice round-trip, some easy route-finding challanges, and no ground to retrace. And, it helps give the Mean Little Dog some real bite!

One night is impressive, but why rush out of such a beautiful spot. Next time stick around and try the 80 d. little lakes just S/W of the pass. We also wondered why so few people are getting up Logan??

Hey Robert, almost like last time, eh? Hope you took Frostbite for the down escalator. Beats me why people seem to think Frostbite is interesting when the Kennedy is right in their face on the way up.

Ranger sez' snow-blocked 4 miles from Cold Springs, five feet on the ground there.

Ranger sez' snow-blocked 4 miles from Cold Springs, five feet on the ground there.

Best route on Cascadian is to stay right of the snowfield. The blocky rock is like a big toy - easy 3rd & 4th class that leads to and over the false summit to the true top. For return, I like the next couloir east of Cascadian (Beckey's Variation #1), lots of plunge stepping, a little class 3, and a good lower trail back to Ingalls Ck - makes a nice loop.