slaphappy
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Posts posted by slaphappy
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erik said:
also check out the n or ne buttress of colchuck peak. it is just to the right of the colchuck glacier route.
i think it is 12-15 pitches at 5.9 with two or 3 sections of that.
Hmmm, seems like it was more like 8 pitches with some easy simuling at mid-height and top. The 5.9 was short and soft, more like 5.7+. The route was fun but not classic. Alan Kearney's route description is spot-on.
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Tod said:
Don't forget Burgundy Spire!
On the contrary, forget Burgundy Spire. The rock is lousy, the climbing mostly forgetable, the only real noteworthy thing about Burgundy is it's one of the harder Washington summits to obtain. (no "walk-ups") The other routes mentioned are far superior.
A few others-
Mt Triumph, NE ridge
Forbidden, any route
Colchuck, NE Butt
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Retrosaurus said:
Just found out that the new book has Crack of Doom as 5.10b.
When I first climbed it before cams it was 5.9.
The last guidebook had it at 5.10a. I thought cams made routes easier.
Now it is 5.10b? Every other 5.10 route on Castle is harder. Devil's Fright at 5.10b is way harder . The Bone at 5.9 is not significantlly harder than Crack of Doom.
Whoever gave input to increase the rating must never have climbed other 5.10 routes on Castle.
At this rate I will be soloing 5.11 when I'm 50.
Maybe it will be easier when it gets bolted?
Not that I think Crack of Doom is 10b, but when VK asked for info for the new guide did you step up and offer any useful advice/beta/corrections? or did you offer your predictable selection of snide remarks? Thanks.
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terrified.
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Toast said:
Champagne did rock! Aside from the ticks, that was a lot of fun.
Nerdy Question of the Day: What other not-so-trafficked, moderate, multi-pitch adventures can you think of? I wanna do more shit like Champagne. Head w/supplies toward any large hunk of stone along the Tumwater or Icicle, find "easy" looking way up, tie in and go. Expect dirt, ticks, loose blocks, and general funk. An occasional stellar pitch and the memories make it well worth the effort.
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Toast said:
Does anybody know anything about coming off of Champagne to end up on the Pearly Gates? Ben, are you out there?
I'm not Ben but... Climb to the ridge above SCW. From the ridge we made two short rappels to the West (could be slightly more or less depending on where you gain the ridge; there's plenty of trees) Follow the base of the ridgeline past The Cornerstone (a fine 5.8+ pitch on the N side, see new guide pg 63) Continue down the rib directly west of Snow Creek, this is the same rib the trail to The Gates comes up. 15-20 minutes downhill from The Cornerstone is the top of the Pearly Gates, find anchors and rap or continue down past The Gates to the East. This is a FAST way to get off the ridge of SCW, much faster than following the base of SCW to The Gates.
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"...will be back there later on to get up Burgundy Spire. The rock is pretty clean."
The rock may look "clean" but large portions are completely detached from the spire, tread lightly. -
Crackbolter said:
5.8d+++?
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"This pitch really 5.9?"
No, it's 5.8.
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Dave_Schuldt said:
Maybe there will be some info in the new guide book?
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MisterE said:
Just picked up my copy on Monday - they came out Saturday!
Very nicely done!
Looks like "Team Courage" sponsored production, since there are 7 pictures of them in the book...
Already found a misprint: Poison Balance is rated .11d in the drawing topo, but .12a in the description - I am sure there are more.
Pearly Gates looks awesome!!
Poison Balance was rated 11d by the 1st. Recent atempts claim it to be a bit harder. You'll find a few other "misprints" of similar nature.
How hard do you think it is? -
Jopa said:
has anyone seen copies in the seattle area yet?
2nd Ascent and Stone-me Gardens have copies.
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Szyjakowski said:
vik told me last weekend most likely the book will be out before first of june but after memorial wkend...or was it coming out this memorial weekend...ahh, forget it...
Who give a fuk; it will be out soon... just hold your horses!
AND there is definitely more bolted horizontal cracks these days... What gives??? (crackbolter? or slap? wanna say anything here????)
keep it real dudes... if there is a killer rp placement don't bolt it... run it out like the brits!
Yeah, I did it all...
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kitten said:
My knees are black & blue..
OK so now they are shades of green and purle.
I need to improve my technique. Ya think?
Any advice???
Missionary versus doggystyle.
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Nalgene- printed in blue .
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carwash
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lummox = Denise Harmon
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Hey, first time I did OS 10 yrs ago, I carried a pack AND bivied in the descent gully. It ruled!
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Uncle_Tricky said:
I haven't climbed the Inspiration route, but there are a number of other routes besides the couple listed in Burdo's book. I'm not sure what the name or grade of the route is we climbed, but it starts a few feet right of the white streak of the goat's beard, and heads up towards the hanging oasis above. We went up 5 pitches, and there appeared to be at least a few more above. Unlike the inspiration route, you only need a single rope to descend cause the pitches are shorter. Its fun and well protected, but right now it's covered with running water.
The route is 12 100' pitches and goes at 11b, it's called Restless Natives. The 11b crux is on the last pitch and can easily be yarded through on 2 closely spaced bolts, making the route 10+ A0. It is a fun outing although I doubt it will ever have a waiting line. Wear your helmet particularly if there is a party ahead of you.
The Promised Land, a few hundred yards to the right of Restless Natives, is also a decent 10+ 2 (3?) pitch route. (I think Bryan bolted an approach pitch that eliminates the low 5th class scramble.) I climbed it before it was retroed and it was mildly frightening, but I'm pretty sure Bryan has "sport bolted" it since. Have fun in Mazama!
plenty! -
Retrosaurus said:
Chuck: "Is this a call for privatization of USFScampgrounds?
-Too late. It has already happened. U.S.Trails. Where have you been?
leithal, Be careful what entities get involved in aquisition. The last thing we need is another fiasco like Peshastin Pinnacles being turned over to the State Park system. It should have become property of some sort of local cooperative entity. You now get expensive tickets for being in the parking lot after a specific hour, which changes. When was the last time you were overdue on a climb? For me it is like 50% of the time.
Slezyjackoffski, No new buildings in the Icicle? Where have you been. Every time I drive up there, there is a new building. Someone will build there. Should it be something that will benefit the climbing community or a private residence that may or may not be ammenable to the climbing public crossing or climbing on their property? You do not need a bunkhouse, momma &pappa's garage works just fine for you. Some of us are sick of getting hassled by "THE MAN". THE MAN is systematically shutting down the "plenty of free places to camp". I took my kid camping up there a couple of weeks ago and hiked into a closed USFS campground. I couldn't use the outhouses because THE MAN has deadbolt locks on all the doors. THE MAN doesn't want anyone to shit in the woods without opening up their wallet. "the truth is, "if you build it THEY will come..." and then the icicle won't be the prestine and vacant place it is....
Sheesh! " The truth is: THEY ARE ALREADY HERE. And the Icicle is not pristine or vacant.
I picture something like a primitive hostel. A place to sleep with a roof. A common area too cook in. Full of people having cool fun; not people in RVs. And CHEAP!!!
Still agreeing...
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Although I may at times share certain characteristics to a dirtbag, I am more of a dirtball. I have always considered a dirtbag to be another name for a hackysack.
on! -
Szyjlnvbknstyurbski- I utilize a number of locals oh-so-often, but they do have families and I am a dirtball.
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richard_noggin said:slaphappy said:Retrosaurus said:
Perfect location for a climbers' bunkhouse/hostel. I would love to pay for that before I pay a forest circus campground host.
Truest thing you ever said.
Retro and slap agreeing WHOA!!
I like it
I'm still climbing granite at my double secret crag in icicle canyon and you two havn't found me yet
Don't get your panties all moist there, dickhead, you won't catch us agreeing on much, rest assured.
and what makes you think I haven't already been to/know about your "double secret" crag? 
Suzy-blahblahpolishsound- For the most part I agree that the Icicle doesn't need more buildings. However, it would be nice to have a cheaper climber/boater/mt.biker venue that offered primitive camp sites and a small bunkhouse with showers, that was privately owned and run. The property doesn't lend itself to any huge structures, if it did, it would have been snatched up long ago. You are right, there are seemingly endless ideal spots that can be camped at for free (I have utilized many), but do you really think that is such a great idea? How many spots like the recently improved one at Mad Meadows (four huge benches, LARGE fire pit, stacks of firewood, tarps) do you think it will take before we aren't allowed to camp for free at all? It wasn't that long ago that it was "ok" to camp anywhere you wanted to up the Icicle. I know your from there and I understand your desire for no more new buildings but not all of us can live there and make ends meet so we have to rely on different means. The current established camping sucks.
Serpentine
in Alpine Lakes
Posted
Yes, up to a #3 Camalot.