wayne
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Posts posted by wayne
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Trip: Canadian Rockies Ice and Mixed -
Date: 1/5/2016
Trip Report:
[img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/P1160748.jpeg[/img]
[img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/P1160791.jpeg[/img]
[img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/P1160954.jpeg[/img]
[img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/P1160680.jpeg[/img]
Had a great week up there doing 4 amazing routes between Xmass and New Years. Mixed Master is soooo fat right now, I hope everyone gets a shot at it! More on bloggy .
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I can add a few to the list that rarly are in as good as they are now: Mixed Master is in and fat!! been waiting 20+years for that one.
Bourgeau left is fat but sunny. Pilsner and entire Field area is in great
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There is a great core of dedicated climbers in the community and the general area. Seek out clubs, events, and the like. Search facebook and partner forums here and mt project, troll Canadians as well. I know a few good people. pm me for a few names.
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Todds claimed them.
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gone, thanks .Used for 5 ice seasons, free to seattle pick up 60 double ropes. no big flaws either.
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Damn nice!
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I Haaaaaate vague questions like this, but I'll bite. There are many different sports-within-the sport
Peak bagging FAs: Roper, or Lage
tough alpine rock routes: Brian Burdo or Doorish
Traverses: yours truly
Alpine ice and mixed routes: not sure
Old school classic lines: Fred Beckey
Last Great problems: Rolf Larsen, Eric Wehrley
FWA: not sure
Sport: Burdo/Yoder
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Looking for a mixed outing at exit 38 or rap wall for sunday> drivivng from seattle. Let me know thanks
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Nice run of routes there! I wasnt super impressed with Positive, but it does have some fun pitches though. I hear Sunspot Dihedral is the sweeter climb of "reduced" difficulty routes.
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Boom! So no problems with connecting flights, or that last pitch at the top? How about the new Jeffrey estate!?
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Trip: Habrich, Milk Road, Bullethead East -
Date: 9/11/2015
Trip Report:
I am very excited to have gone to Squamish 3 different times this year!! What a great venue for long routes with low commitment. I can see why so many people are flocking there to climb and live. I hope the town and area handle the growing pains ahead.
I just finished 3 weeks off from work and was frustrated by the weather and lack of partners. I was able to get a great trip to Leavenworth, and finally a great trip with Lane to Squamish right at the end of it.
At the top of the list was Life on Earth on the SW Face of Mt Habrich. We took the Sea-to-Sky Tram which takes you just over half way up the mountain. A few easy mile, then steep up-hill trail, leads to the split left in the trail to the base of the route. Look for a red rope heading up to the base of the climb. The first pitch is very fun with cracks and face moves. The rest of the route has an occasional hard face moves with decent rock the whole way. We were surprised to see many parties up there even on a Friday, but we never were slowed down. We teamed up with the party behind us to double up our collective ropes and rappel the route. Much better option than going down the other way in rock shoes. Thanks to Gary and Elise for the option. Great day in the mountains.
Next up on Saturday was the big prize: Milk Road and its legendary 4th pitch endurance corner. It was wet at the start of the route, but still fun going up the 2nd pitch with its arch and face moves.. but before we knew it, I was headed up one of the best pitches in Squamish determined to on-site it. It got to where it seemed silly to do it in the best style because I got very tired, and the lead took a long time. I should have just hung on a piece of gear, but I was not giving in, and got to the top under what was left of my own power.. The rest of the route was pretty forgettable except for the super crazy 8th pitch. What a wild ride it is, with delicate foot mantles and insane exposure. Once again I was determined to get it clean, and thanks to a great climbing season, I did!!
We topped the long weekend off with Bulletheads East, a 4 pitch romp that has great fingers and hands the whole way up on good rock. I am very grateful to have had such good weather and climb 3 long routes as I am headed back to a work project that will last 12 months with no more breaks. (regular) Life goes on.
Photos dont load for me here, they are on my site however
Approach Notes:
Sea to sky tram is the way to go.
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Trip: Prussik Peak - Der Sportsman
Date: 9/7/2015
Trip Report:
Well, if you haven't done it already, go do Der Sportsman. It is a most-classic-route type of climb. It is difficult, yet doable. The climb and setting are superb. Here is the story from Labor Day '15
I tried the photo uploader yet again on safari. It didn't work for me either, sorry
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Thanks for the detailed report! Its been on my list for a while. If one took the ride up, how far is it from the gondola to the base? Thanks
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Full circle, and then some! Nice job there team.
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My belayer is quite up to speed on my preferences thank you very much. As for not trying hard enough? Does grunting really loud-ok screaming- make it seem like I am am punting? It was labor pains after all. Thanks for the picture, Wayne
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Upload-shmupload, the photo loader is a piece of crap. It only works for me about 1 in 5 tries. Maybe its a browser thing? I am using chrome. Nice traverse btw!
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You k-12s gonna just blow by this?
RE: Cloud 9: "Im surprised you-know-who didnt chop this route like some of the other routes up there. There are still a couple of other amazing pitches up there that need freshening up. A 10d**(forget the name) and an 11 called High and Mighty ****that still hasnt been led! Not to mention Death and Taxes( which did get chopped, and thats ok by me as it was rap bolted and obnoxious)."
Go get Cloud Nine! Then go back to your trolling.
OLD LINE GETS NEW LIFE AT BEACON ROCK - "CLOUD NINE, 5.9"Each time I was up on Grassy Ledges I would look over and wonder what route were those old rusty homemade hangers on? A dirty, lichen covered, uninviting slab led up to the first one I could spot but the line looked like it hadn't been climbed in a long time. I kept thinking that it would be cool if the SE Corner route had a bit more climbing and less scrambling after the first 3 pitches and so I started my exploration to uncover Cloud Nine.
The first order was to replace the three old homemade hanger bolts with some fresh modern day material. Next was a bit of cleaning to uncover pockets, slots and cracks that would allow for gear placements and to expose some of those edges you will need to dance your way up the crux section.
Today along with Matt, I got out and led the line and I must say it makes for a fine alternative to the scrambling portion after Grassy Ledges of the original SE Corner.
There are a couple of popular ways that one could get this pitch in:
Option 1 - Climb the first 4 pitches of the SE Corner route, stopping at the top of Grassy Ledges just before it dips down to climbers left. Set a belay here using cams; an old bolt stud can be seen at eye level. The route heads out right along a cleaner line of rock which should be obvious at this time.
Option 2 - Climb the first 2 pitches of Young Warriors but on the second pitch finish up left to Tree Ledge and belay here. Then merge into the fourth pitch of the SE Corner and follow that up to Grassy Ledges. Just before the Grassy Ledge trail dips down to climbers left. Set a belay here using cams; an old bolt stud can be seen at eye level. The route heads out right along a cleaner line of rock which should be obvious at this time.
Cloud Nine, 5.9, 50m
Head up right following a shallow ramp and finding good pockets for gear. Continue up the slab trending right until below the first bolt. Climb up through the bolts (crux) finding good edges and a fun series of moves until the terrain eases. From the last bolt step left and continue straight up the corner and crack until you pull up on to a clean slab with a piton to the right. Traverse right to the piton and join the Young Warriors line from here; onward and upward through more fun climbing. Do not stop at the intermediate belay ledge but instead move right up another slab ramp and continue up passing a piton and one last bolt. Belay from the ridge and note that this pitch is about 50m in length.
Gear: 0.1 - 2.0 Camalots, 1 Set of Nuts
An extra 0.2 & 0.3 is helpful
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Nice report! The cats out of the bag for Phantom w ridge. what was the factor in not going after it?
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Heartbreaking news, Condolences to the friends, family and co-workers.
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Trip: Squamish - Wonderful thing about Tiggers, Sunset Strip
Date: 8/3/2015
Trip Report:
Looking for some amazing long climbs that beat the hot weather? Head North to Squamish and find the Fluffy Kitten wall in the higher altitude and shade!> Get an early start and do the 12 pitch mega-classic Sunset Strip on the Dihedrals. 2 of the finest routes for the grade up there for sure. Did a beta search and write up on my personal journal
Gear Notes:
dont buy into the mega rack beta on tiggers
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Nice to see that it still possible to climb there, barely though it seems. Way to persist.
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Laurel, I was just thinking that I should do a trilogy with the moderate grade routes and an elite list too! May I build on your outstanding moderate list?
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[TR] Canadian Rockies Ice and Mixed - 1/5/2016
in British Columbia/Canada
Posted
Nice Priti! Louise looks bad in that photo. You will be back I am sure.
Moderators, what was I doing wrong on my Photos loading? Thanks