wayne
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Posts posted by wayne
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bump to restore photos: personal journal entry
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Wow, I got tired just reading about it! Great report thanks
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Incredible read, and send! Way to stick to it on lead! Very inspiring.
Its not everyday that you get the first free ascent of a 50 Crowded, tfs. there may only be 1 or 2 at all left to go free. The only one I can think of is Middle Triple?
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no, I got an email from a guy in Maine that wanted to see them.
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Reposting for the pictures: here
...and the break the stronghold of trs up from olymyiatheclimber.
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We had deep snow but it wasn't icy I think ski pole and aluminum crampons is all you need there's never anything to Steep except for the base of the route. It will be warm you should go for it
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bumping this oldie but goodie.
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nice shots! great report too. thanks
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100+ games??? nuts.
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The direct early-season trail is barely workable the snow is soft down low and quite firm up high still. The slopes in general are not that steep so no Crampons were used.
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Trip: Labor Pains, N.Early Winter Spire x2 -
Date: 5/29/2016
Trip Report:
So I did this route last September, then again last weekend. It is a challenging, gamey, and unheralded route that could use some updating. The WA Pass supertopo book covers it well, and I did 2 trs on it on my web journal. Enjoy.
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His writing has reached the level of his climbing for sure! What a run. Incredible to witness a career like this from the beginnings on this very site. Someone want to dig up an oldie tr from him? Please.
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" A sling for every tree!" I've said before at areas like Snow Creek Wall. the Tooth etc. It is lazy not to research and stick to the standard decent while coming down. Most dont require rapping at all, yet there they are. I like the pile of webbing that the Ranger Station had from cleaning up Triumph.
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Pete: Looking at the order in which the pulled pieces lay on his harness, He may have put in an over-cammed placement, then an undercammed one. He was doing a layback too, so in the blind. The crack is very solid, it was a shock to hear them pull.
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emailed you.
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Short Version: The Edelrid Micro-Jul system brings brake assisted belaying and rappelling to double ropes!! However to get proficient with the device, a good deal of patience is required. It has very specific details to its use. READ and follow ALL safety manuals! When combined with the Flycatcher Twin 6.9 mil ropes, you have a super light system, and confidence that will come from familiarity with this advanced product.
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Thanks, went back for more in those crazy-warm temps! With Glasgowkiss, we did Fang+ Fist, Wuthering Heights, Carlsberg, and Kronenburg, and more (on blogosphere of course).
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I watched the video and found it very compelling. Thanks for seeing it through and providing the story. I'll bet there are a few of those in north cascades. I saw an impenetrable valley near mt logan that had a whole valley side fracture and slide many meters in a v shape. Pretty sure nobodies seen that valley either.
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Have all those routes/ lines been climbed?
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I saw you guys on Kid cliff, and Pope on Rap Wall. We were coming down from a Bryant Buttress climb: https://waynewallace.wordpress.com/2016/01/12/the-circumvention-aka-fan-wallace-new-mixed-route/ .
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Trip: “The Circumvention”, aka. Fan-Wallace-m5+, FA
Date: 1/11/2016
Trip Report:
http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.phpphoto=110317&title=p1170012&cat=500“
The Circumvention”, aka. Fan-Wallace is located above Source Lake area. To the right of Flow Reversal, and Resistance Is Futile, yet left of where people skin up to Chair Peak. Best approached from the Flow Reversal area, up and right, reaching a sweet thin gully with turf hooks and thin ice. When it gets steep, there could be an exciting direct finish to the pitch, or the obvious off-width crack to the left. We did it in 3 short pitches, but best to do it in 2. Move the belay high enough to see the leader either finish on the ice daggers, or the exciting “Fan” finish to the steep ramp up and right. 60m ropes just reach the bottom. Pins, stoppers, screws and specters are all handy.
more on blog
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Nuts! Just typing out that list would hurt my fingers!
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Good, yet small line of products. The guy will help you design new gadgets though! Product review
[TR] Mount Waddington - Bravo Glacier, SE Chimney, Angel Glacier 7/5/2016
in British Columbia/Canada
Posted
Great report, and sorry about all the extra work, but you earned it!!