viktor

No, you're not supposed stop or get out of your car anywhere around there. Whats funny is that the campground is open. I guess you'd be under house arrest. Do not leave your campsite. You must be accompanied by a campground rent-a-cop to visit the privy. However, a bunch of previously kinda-hidden boulders are easier to spot now. Fuzz Rock is really scorched black.

The closures begin just past Icicle Buttress and continue beyond 4th of July. The Duty, etc area looks fine. The burned area looks pretty toasted. Apparently, Snow Lakes trail is open. "No stopping, gawking or rock climbing" in the posted areas. I think retro meant 8-mile road is gated at bridge creek (for stuart trail, etc access).

Icicle canyon is now open according to the wenatchee world. no climbing in the burned areas but the campgrounds are open for business. that would probably eliminate all climbs beyond bridge creek like condor, bathtub, 4th of july, etc.

I'm pretty sure they'll keep the whole canyon closed (past snow creek) for an indefinate amout of time like a month or more.

moved here to get out of the rain, never thought I'd be so glad to see it pour. There's a convoy of fire trucks leaving 11worth. Things may just get back to normal before winter.

icicle Canyon is closed currently as is snow lakes trail so if you plan on cragging around here its the lower icicle or tumwater for now. Temps have hit 100 every day this week and its smoky too.

www.wenworld.com/ has an update on the fires. not good.

the valley is choked with smoke right now. stinks too.

I noticed 2 fires last night, the one on icicle ridge and one on Wedge mtn. Just got into town when they started last eve around 6. sorry, don't know status, but looking out my office window it doesn't look any worse. there was a bit of ash on the car this morning. The USFS has a website for fires but I couldn't find any updates.

I like Uli's cuz I can take my dog there.

Duckboys Pub & Restaurant opens today in der village. They are located in the Hotel Tirol across from Visconti's (Brewery). The menu looks good, they have a grill, good alternative to Gustav's. I don't think their website is online yet but it's www.duckboys.com. Mention this post for a special deal. They serve Leavenworth Brewery beers (the best) and they have outdoor seating on the veranda (smoking OK). Going there for lunch today to check it out.

http://viktor.kramar.wasarrested.com/S-WA/Leavenworth/ps

hey bub, curious to know where you heard that and who you are. you can email me at v.kramar@mastecps.com

I think Jim's in Alaska right now but will ask when he gets back and let you know.

Swakane Canyon - Entiat. Check it out. Haven't been myself but supposedly lots of steep knobby walls. A few ground up lines have been done. Can say for sure. Mitch might know.

Those new routes were done by Jim Phillips. Haven't been there lately, good to hear they're worthy. GRTC is a former toprope down lower which has been bolted (don't know by whom) but reports are that it's a fun lead now.

I think the first ascent was 1963. My guess is Lepeska and Stoddard were the first to free it unless someone TRed it before. Whatever...

I'm sure this is getting tiresome for all, but I thought I'd toss this last perpective into the mix. Das Muzak was led by Perry Beckham around that same era. His best pro were pitons which he placed (probably on lead, knowing Perry) and left behind. These pins were sketchy to begin with, in time got worse, shaky and rusty and were recently replaced with bolts. No one seems to have a problem with this, I don't. Since preplaced pitons were used on the FA of DDD and then removed, why the selective outrage? DDD is nothing more than a 1983 sport route that never had the bolts put in.

speaking of the history of the route (which seems to be ignored)are you planning to fully restore the route with its original pitons or is modern protection adequate? In all honesty, I do admire your ethical standards. I just think your actions are extreme and feeling "warm and fuzzy" about it makes me ill. And if you have any input for topos or whatever, "they suck" doesn't help.

Oh, goody! I was wondering what stupid redundant topic we were gonna rage about for the next few months. I'm trying to be objective and hold my tongue but this is just too much. Climbing's version of a drunken brawl. This should make everyone so much more open and cooperative. Kinda reminds me of a child custody battle. Everyone walks away but the kid (rock) is the one who suffers. Sleep well my vigilante heroes. By the way, how is that climb, anyway? I know it's too hard for me, but surely you guys ran a few laps while you were up there. Oh, yea, I've got $8.59. I'll trade you for the hangers you pocketed.

don't really know about the west side, I think the routes are typically longer but the east face of the Blockhouse is a fantastic slice of stone, like a 400 foot chunk of Washington Column. Steep, white rock with sweeping crack systems and dihedrals. Don't know whats been done, but probably not all free.

north face is about 5.8 follows a pretty obvious crack system, 3 pitches or so. The Beckey route is maybe a tad harder just cuz route finding is more of an issue there. If you're heading up there soon, you're gonna have to plan your water situation. Hook creek is just about dry up higher, the mesa has some stagnant mud holes. pretty marginal right now.

I've done the Mole a couple of times from Hook Creek. A brutal approach but very direct. In fact, did the north face route last friday, hiked up to the boulderfield and bivied, then up the next day and back to bivy, then spent a couple of days wandering around Edwards Mesa and out Toketie. This way you can avoid dealing with a permit. Any route up the Mole is easier than the descent, a horrifying series of steep rappels on funky anchors. Thats why we hauled a hammer and bolt kit and added a good 5/16" bolt at each of the 3 rappels. Still scary but a lot more secure. Probably illegal but I'm alive to tell about it. You can also approach it from Prusik or Toketie, longer but easier. Rat Creek goes, but is longer and gnarlier than Hook. I like the Hook Creek death march better cuz you can see your objective the whole way. You gain well over 5000 feet to the Mesa, taking anywhere from 6 to 9 hours depending on fitness and how much beer you're carrying.

go see Jim Nelson at Pro sports. He'll fix you up with no BS.

oops, sorry, I though Mr. Nut started this.