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laughingclimber

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  • Homepage
    www.climboregon.com
  • Occupation
    Guide/Instructor
  • Location
    Milwaukie, OR, USA

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  1. Rocky Butte is a local Portland area crag. The rock is quarried basalt, generally toproped, but theres plenty of leading of all types and grades. The biggest drawback is it's urban nature, with freeway noise, vandalism, and a dirty top that rains dust and garbage down on the routes. The rock itself is some of the best locally. The high number of beginners and non-climbers accounts for a large percentage of accidents and near-misses. There is an irritating tendency for people to bolt existing TR's, re-bolt routes that were chopped in the 80's, and trying to "develop" routes and anchors on the man made walls and structures (bolts placed into blocks the size of a shoebox that form a capstone on a retaining wall!!). The castle on the top is fun to boulder on, and has been used by local groups to introduce new climbers to ropes and safety techniques.
  2. Am looking to buy a piton hammer, used pins, and a set of hexes, preferably the kind with holes drilled through them. Contact me via e-mail at cmgclimb@hotmail.com
  3. I sure hate REI, too. I hate it how they usually have what you want, and how quick they answer the phone. I hate it that you can usually find several comparable items at a range of prices, but I especially hate the return policy. It is completely the fault of retail stores that routes are crowded, and has nothing to do with the fact that there are more people around than ever before. When I go out to climb The Tooth, those other people have no right whatsoever to spoil my 137th ascent. I can tell they suck by where they shop. When I shop, I let the salesperson know right away that I am nobodys fool. When I ask a question, it's only a way of letting the REI salesperson see how much I know. I don't want their opinion, I want their attention, because I have memorized the cross-section shear strength of all known ice-screws available, and if I can make that $7/hr employee look like a schmuck in front of a hot chick, all the better. None of you people has the right to enjoy the mountains, 'cause you don't feel it like I do. When I am out climbing, I look and act nothing like you. I am so removed and isolated, I practically invented climbing. I am hip. I am cool. For once, I am one up on somebody.
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