jason_h

interesting topic that has gotten quite off track from the original post of rapping off snow creek. i spent the last month in leavenworth area and have done most of the routes mentioned previously. about rapping off snow creek wall, it seems feasable if some anchors are available on top. you could rap to library ledge, rap off the south end from a bolt and chain to another set of chains about 85 ft or so down, then to the top of pitch 5 on iconoclast(chains here), then rap that route all the way down via slings on blocks and trees. would i do this?-no way i'd choose to do the easy walk off every time. ahh, now the DDD topic-after climbing up the pinned out angel crack to the fixed pin and the ugly anchor slings, i thought i might try the sport route to the right which my partner informed me was retroed, which prompted the thought of leading it without bolts-glad i didn't as i pitched a few times. my opinion is that the bolts aren't necessary and a tr or headpoint is just fine. but would i chop it-no way, i am not part of the local community so why would i show up at their area and start chopping? also it sounds like much thought went into this bolt job and had the well wishes from the FA party. there are much better things to be chopping than the bolts on DDD. such as the the slings through all the bolts on the first pitch of RPM, you can barely fit a draw into those things, then you could chop all the slings around every tree and block on that wall, next off to the visor to pull off those slings. anyways, put your crowbar away and bring some scissors to the crags next time.

i think it is great that everyone is so pro restrictions for snowmobiles, but the moment climbing gets restricted everyone has a fit. don't there tax dollars that go to the same places ours do, so why should they not be able to use the land also. i personally don't like snowmobiles, but i am not in support of the constant restrictions because where do you draw the line? at the snowmobile, or maybe we shouldn't allow mountain bikes in areas where hikers and climbers may be, or how about restricting fixed anchors? i guess what i am saying is that at what point do these restrictions stop? you all drove a car to the trailhead so how can you complain about driving a little farther. and allowing hundreds of climbers on the easton and coleman glaciers isn't exactly pro environment, how would you feel about restricting the use? i am not a snowmobiler but why get rid of them just because they aren't like me. which restrictions do we support and don't support, seems like a fuzzy line to me. keep an open mind and offer the next snowmobiler a six pack in exchange for a tow up the approach trail.

i climbed it last summer. it was almost entirely fixed and went clean easily, also the stance belay for the last pitch? now has bomber bolts. have fun-jason

dude- i just spent last month in moab, nice place to be. i climbed castleton via kor ingalls which was pretty good, but not amazing and also did the north face of castleton which was stellar. the first pitch says 11a, but it was just endurance, no 11a moves on it and the last pitch says 10 offwidth but much easier in my opinion. also did ancient art in the fishers which is highly recommended, the coolest summit ever! also fine jade looks dope and lightning bolt cracks on n. six shooter are suppose to be cool. and you can't go wrong in indian creek. have fun-jason

i did snake dike last fall, bring a couple draws and a couple nuts or small cams. with a 60m rope you can skip the first belay on gear and go staight to a small ledge and bolts. we simul climbed the whole thing which made it a very easy day, but you can easily do it in a day belaying. and you can bum water from backpackers at little yosemite campground 5 miles up the trail. it is called snake hike for a reason though. jason

hey ya'll- anyone want a ride to(one way) moab/indian creek. i'm leaving from portland saturday march 3rd and able to swing through bend. split gas. jason huston