texplorer
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Posts posted by texplorer
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1. Cerro Torre
2. Cassin Ridge
3. Spaceboyz
4. Polish Glacier
5. Karsten's Ridge
6. N. Face Grand Teton
7. Yocum Ridge
8. Liberty Ridge
9. Primrose Dihedrals
10.Black Ice Coulouir
Bonus: The Gift That Keep Giving
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So........Back on Topic
I don't know that I really stand out in any area of climbing. I have tried to get an all round experience. Anyway here are my goals for the next 5 years
Wanna do this year!
High Alt.
-Aconcagua, Polish Glacier
NW Alt.
-Rainier, Liberty Ridge
-Hood. Elliot Headwall & Yocum Ridge
Sport
-Smith, Heinous Cling (1st pitch)
-El Potero Chico, Spaceboyz
Trad
-Beacon Rock, Free for Some
-Moses, Primrose Dihedrals
-Castleton Spire, Ingals/Kor
Alpine
-Grand Teton, N. Ridge
Ice
-Ouray Festival
-Drury Falls
Next 5-7 years!
High Alt.
-Denali, Cassin Ridge
-Cerro Torre
[This message has been edited by texplorer (edited 10-17-2001).]
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Wow, look what just came out in the AARP newletter this month.
Like many of his peers these days, the 73 year old is proving that he's more than just a high altitude goat who can send the most first ascents in the NW.
On October 10, Beckey made the second ascent of Robby McGown's Free For Some (5.11a) at Beacon Rock, Washington by a 60+ yr old. The V3 crux is right off the ground. Beckey made a huge reach from a finger jam and undercling to a solid slot. “The route requires a lot of body tension and finger strength,” Beckey says. “I think the 50+ years training with my Moutain Axe by REI helped.”
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Although I know look upon Krakaur's stuff as a little one-sided and sometimes tame I still think he is a good writer. Some of his books enticed me into checking out more about mountaineering and climbing. Being a flatlander from west texas we don't really ever hear or even know about what kind of things people do in the mountains. I have to thank him for introducing me to the world of climbing. He brought climbing into the media and the media does what it does with everthing and made our sport look cheap. I think he got a bit caught up in it but I probably would too if they were paying for me to go on a bunch of far off places to do what I love to do. So, I could talk crap about him but then again I wouldn't even live here in the NW if it wasn't for him. I have a feeling I'll be dodging spray after this one. --
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So how much does it cost for non-members of the gym?
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Yep,
I agree totally. It seems like there is always something else that you "need." Finally this year I think I am spending more money on travel than gear. And that's quite a bit since I've bought over 20 cams this year. I'm pathetic really. Next month I'll be living out of my car to support my climbing habit.
Earlier this year I decided that in order to further my climbing I was going to have to travel and climb alot more. That meant making more money or cutting expenses. I don't see myself making more money unless I work more which would entail less climbing. Already a miser, I decided the rent check had to be sacrificed. I am a little scared, my family thinks I am crazy, and I hope this all works out. Sorry about the dribble. Anyone want to climb tomorrow in the portland area.
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Kick his ass Pope!!
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Eric,
Dude are you really that much of an a-hole? You definetely know how to stir up the hornets nest. You could probably lead Just Do It on hooks too but does that mean we should chop the bolts on it too.
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How much have you used them? I am in portland too and am interested in those puppies.
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I hear that ice climbing in the gorge is really short- like 3-4 hours per day one or two days per year. I have gone up on the Elliot glacier on hood two times this year. Head up to the cloudcap or tilly jane campgrounds on the north side and then its a short hike up onto the glacier. Watch out for unstable ice though. Some kid has already died up there this year.
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I hope you teach them better than the goobers I meet on the rock that call themselves "mazamas."
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Some reasons why trad climbing might not catch on:
1) It's too scary
2) It will require many people to learn to climb cracks instead of all those little monos
3) Trad gear is expensive (you'll have to get a job)
4) Everything will be bolted by 2010
5) Would you wanted to be associated with someone like pope or cavey
6) Trad gear is 'heavy' and 'bulky' and rips holes in spandex
7) You'll go from climbing 5.12 to 5.8 instantly
8) There's not as many chics on the N Face of the Grand
9) Taped hands leave that sticky stuff on you for days and shaved wrists just aren't in style these days
10) Could'nt think of another reason to make an even ten
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Nevermind, duh If I looked at the title.
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What is RR? What climbs at Zion?
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Better yet two flats,
I climb with one daisy on my harness. I like it because its super easy to clip into the anchors at the top of a climb. Adjusting the length is really easy too. If I belay from my harness I use the rope with an 8 on a bite as my 2nd anchor tie-in. And no, I didn't learn it from some piker at the Evil Empire. I do agree with lambone about the clutter though. It has a bad tendency of getting caught up in cams and quickdraws. I'm probably going to not use it anymore when carrying alot of gear. I am curious what you guys do. Do you just carry an extra couple of runners, rope, cordelette?
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I think that Mtn Hardwear girl- Sue Nott is hotter than steph
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Does Ushba make titanium hacksaw blades?
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Nice response Uncle Tricky. You summed up this debate very neatly. I am just sorry I had to read all afternoon to get to the few intelligable responses. While you guys sprayed I was climbing. Adios-
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4ft Crowbar $40
Wall Hammer $70
60m Static $100
Epoxy $10
MiniHacksaw $15
Saw blades $10
Labor(minwage)$15
Climbing a boltless classic crack- Priceless
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They should've called the lady-J the Pist-off.
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I've seen the lady J! Penis envy?
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Some excellent posts here today. For the most part I agree with what has been said here. I don't look down on sport climbers at all but I have a few problems however with some of your "reasons" for not trad climbing. If money is a reason you can't buy pro let me introduce you to a new inexpensive kind of food called Ramen Noodles. Joking aside I don't make that much money but I got a job where I could get gear at half price and I save like Ebeneezer and yes I eat ramen on a regular basis. My point is that time and money are not an excuse not to climb. You may have chosen to go to college and get a degree or have a job but that was your decision. What you should say is you don't want it bad enough to sacrifice your education or girlfriend or whatever. There is nothing wrong with that just don't use that as a crutch. As for trad being safe - it can be very safe. If you want more safety go do another extreme sport like rollerblading. Most people climb at least in part to experience the feeling of danger whether real or contrived. I understand your comments on the general disrespect for sport and boulders. Do what you like to do and don't worry about it when we are ditching all you blue haired, eyebrow pierced, rastafarian cap sport climbers. Most of the time we say it all in fun. Climb on.
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oh, almost forgot.
Go with the 10.5mm or I am even looking at getting a 10mm or 9.9mm. They are lighter and smaller.
Cheers
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Pluto,
First of all, I doubt you'll need a dry rope for what your going to be climbing. Dry ropes are mainly for use on glacier and vertical ice climbs. Seldom will you be climbing on rock when its rainy and wet. As far as length -go with the 60m if you can afford it. It never hurts to have a little extra and it's necessary on some climbs. Some people are even moving up to 65m or 70m ropes even. You should be able to find a decent rope for about $100 if you look around. I even have seen them at the Recreational Evil Impire (REI) for just over a franklin. I would also recommend a metolious rope bag to protect your rope. I have one that has a roll out tarp -its really nice to have and worth the 30 or 40 bucks extra.
What do you read...
in Climber's Board
Posted
Don't read much. Reading is the hard way to gain knowledge. I suppose I'm ADD or something. I don't know if you can really read a guidebook but mine have alot of drool over them. I often entertain the thought of myself reading a book but given the choice I simply sit around and daydream.