ryland_moore
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Trip: Oregon Ice First Ascents - 1/20/07 - Ramblin' Man, Paradice, Rocky's Revenge
Date: 1/20/2007
Trip Report:
January 20, 2007
Myself, Tim Garland of Redmond, and Scott Kastengren of Portland headed east to check out potential ice lines on private property I had seen the last two years.Note: There may be a possibility that these are not first ascents, if someone poached or illegally accessed the property. The ranch has been in the family since the early 1900's and the landowner has never let anyone on the property for climbing of any kind. That is the main reason we feel these are first ascents.
We called the landowner on Thursday to ask if we could head out on his property to look for potential ice lines. He granted us permission and we geared up. We had scouted the ice last weekend, but it just wasn't in to where we felt comfortable leading them.
Saturday morning, Scott and I left PDX at 5:30 am and met Tim out at a predetermined spot. As soon as we started seeing the ice, we knew that we would be in for a long day of sending.
(FA)Ramblin' Man - WI 3, 55 meters
Ryland Moore, Tim Garland, Scott Kastengren
We started out on a warm-up WI 3 climb. I took the sharp end on this one and then Tim and Scott each led it after.
We followed some cow tracks up to the base of the climb. It was a four-tiered series with 70 degrees to almost vertical ice "steps" each about 20 feet high, separated in between with about 5-10 feet of flat ice leading to the next tier.
The ice was solid and we were sinking 17 cm screws without hitting anything. The 3rd tier was actually a smooth ice runnel very confined and about 60 degrees in steepness.
Very fun route and we ran out of rope right at the top of the climb. We named it "Ramblin Man" at WI 3 for the lower two tiers of ice and 55 meters. I walked off the climb to the right and we cleaned it, since all of us led it, by rapping with two ropes off of an ice screw and large boulder.
(FA)Paradice - WI 4, 50 meters:
Tim Garland, Scott Kastengren, Ryland Moore
We headed back to this this line and were not sure if it would go because the lower part of the second step looked "thin".
Tim Garland decided he would take the sharp end. We could hear water rushing behind the first free-hanging ice curtain of the lower step. Tim climbed up the curtain (20 feet high) to a flat rest about 10 feet in diamter. He headed over to the left and sunk another screw. He climbed up and right and the ice was surprisingly thick and solid.
He styled it out to a corner on the right and up to the top and out of view for another 35 feet. Scott and I followed on top-rope and we all felt that it was one of the best ice climbs we have ever done anywhere.
The ice was very plastic and sticks came easily the entire way. Tim decided to call this climb "Paradice" which is very fitting for the setting we were in and WI4. One awesome climb. There is a second short pitch to this climb, which unfortunately was in the sun and was barely hanging on. Another 30 feet of flat walking and there is a short 10-foot step and then another 30-40 foot completely hanging curtain to finish it all off. Because this upper part is in the sun, it will likely rarely form.
We walked off but could have set a V-thread. Just easier to walk off!
We ate a late lunch and then decided to go check an even more remote spot that we had looked at the previous weekend through binocs.
(FA)Rocky's Revenge - WI 5 20 meters:
Tim Garland, Ryland Moore
We eyed a shorter (and closer) single pitch line that was almost touching down last weekend and looked to be in from the binocs. It was getting late in the day, so we thought we could get down to the bottom of the canyon and climb the route and back out by dark.
We headed down the deep canyon and after about a 45 minute approach, we could see the line quite well.
We headed up to the base to find a 20 feet free hanging ice curtain followed by another 40 feet of WI 3 to the top. The ice curtain was barely hanging on and only a few feet thick at the base and about 3 feet wide at the most.
Tim manned up and took the sharp end. He styled the ice curtain and it did not so much as groan or creak.
He moved smoothly through the crux to the easier and much welcomed WI 3 section.
I followed and really struggled on the lower curtain. It was harder than any WI 5 I've Tr'ed at Lee Vining or Lillooet. I literally flailed on the lower section and will happily admit that without leashes I would have definitely come off. The last 40 feet are awesome WI 3 to the top. Short but pumpy! Tim set an anchor off a huge boulder and rapped off. I cleaned the route and anchor and walked off to the left.
We hiked out of the canyon and did not get back to our cars until it was dark. Overall, it was an awesome day, great ice in amazing condition considering it was about 40 degrees most of the day, and best of all it was in Oregon!
Note: This post is to share with you information that there is ice in Oregon! Unfortunately, I cannot share the location with anyone as it is on private property and the landowner does not want the liability of others climbing on their property. Please do not poach any ice or rock for that matter without landowner permission. This property is heavily posted with "No Trespassing" signs and they have called the sherriff on poachers/hunters in the past.
There are still plenty of FAs to be had out there, but with the warm weather on us, it looks as if they may be gone for a while. Two other potential FAs to the left of Paradice had completely crashed to the ground and were mere wet spots on the rock as they faced SE, while Paradice simply faces due East.
Both Ramblin' Man and Rocky's Revenge face North and are in canyons, so less likely to fall down, but the curtain on Rocky's was barely hanging on.
Ice season in Oregon ain't over yet!
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5.5 to 6 hours.....I drove it in summer to Tri Cities then north and cut over to Colfax, WA and down. If you go through Lewiston and back down the Snake on the other side it actually takes longer....There are 1st ascent possibilities closer to PDX than the Palouse
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I don't know if I'd tust my Subie on some of those Palouse loess wet dirt roads!
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I have driven every dirt single road from Rosalia South to Wawaiwai Canyon and East to Central Ferry State Park and North to Winona this past summer. I literally spent three straight weeks driving these roas to document dwater right use. In the process I got to see some amazing potential for ice as well as scope out some awesome upland bird hunting. Drop me a PM and you guys can Do check some other areas out I thought might be promising. The key is to find the break in the Wanapum and Grande Ronde basalts where water would seep out and are exposed. I will be out there next Wednesday (meetings in Colfax and Spokane)if you want me to go over some maps (Gazateer) I could point you to some good spots*****Caviat: A lot of those dirt roads, while named and public, can be really difficult to travel on during the winter without four wheel drive.....
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Peak Bagger, I don'tknow you but Clintoris posts here a ton and seems pret y straight foward, plus he will be posting her a lot again, so I think he may be overly cautious and you are overly cautious. Do you live close together? If so, just do it in person. if not do it through paypal and then you will both be fine with it. I think you are premature to lable someone who is a "Scammer" when you have not been scammed.......Also, do you know everyone on this board from Anchorage, AK? Are people from Anchorage typically labeled as Scammers? I know two others from Anchorage who post here regulmarly and arenot Clintoris and they don't scam. I think you are off base here.
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No that it has relieved some of its stresses and tensions, it should be in great form tomorrow after it refreezes (assuming it will)!
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Surprising as Clintoris isn't like a weirdo. he posts great TR's and such, even tried working as a climbing rnager for Rainier. More details please!
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There's water in the Palouse after all! Any of you guys find anything around Palouse River Falls? Ever been down there this time of year? I've been working out there a lot recently looking at water rights and saw a ton of seeps where the basalt layers transitioned over down in the canyon. Looks like a ton of potential if the weather and water is right....
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"My career is made, I'm not out to make any more money or please anybody. This is simply another personal challenge in the life of Chris Davenport."
Then why the professional documentary film crew from Cali, the professional photogs, the planned coffee table book and the press releases for coverage? Not about making money? Whatever. Maybe some of it is to stroke his ego or please his sponsors, but come on. It may be his personal goal to do it, but to say he is not doing it for money as well, I call bs. If it wasn't about money and just about his personal goal, we would likely not have heard about it yet. There definitely wouldn't be film crews and a blog and website tracking each ski descent. Is it hardcore? Yes. Is it an amazing accomplishment? Yes. Will it ever be repeated? Who knows. I am not chastizing the guy trying to earn a buck and if he can, more paower to him. Just be honest about your endeavors regardless of whether they are for monetary reasons or not.
here's how I bet his thought process went:
Man, I really want to ski all 54 14'ers in a season, but to do so, I won't be able to work much, so will need a little income on the side to keep me going. So, he started talking to his sponsors. They agreed but then through in other ideas like the documentary film, photographs, and coffee table book. he saw he could make money while living out his dream and voila, there yout go. A money-maker while setting out to accomplish a life-long dream.
I have no problem with this at all. Just be honest that this is going to make him money. He is trying to pretend to be a dirt-bag without explaining all of the other deals on the side. I just think he is saing one thing and doing another. More props to him if he can do this, just admit to what you are doing. Most people would not think this was a bad thing. Maybe others in the ski community do?
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Definitely not trying to take anything away from him as it is definitely a huge accomplishment, it just changes the game a little when you decide to bring in sponsors and attempt to make money from it by producing a coffee table book and feature length movie about it. If your goal is your own personal goal, then it really doesn't matter when you finish as you have accomplished your goal. But the watering down of the original goal when sponsors are involved and your goal isr now their goal, then the general public will only see ithas a failed attempt at skiing all 54 peaks in a single season rather than 54 ski descents accomplished in 12+ months.
No doubt that what he (will) accomplish will be record breaking and done in proud form.....
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Impressive, but he still did not meet his goal, correct? He was attempting to ski all 54 in a single season. How many did he actually get before the end of the 2006 ski season? Did he only change his plans once the end of the 2006 season was over? part of the website talks about skiing all 54 in 2006 ski season, then it switches over to talking about all 54 in 2006 and then finally all in one year. If he doesn't get Long's will he switch it to all in a 13 month period? Or all in 12 months and 5 days?
My opinion is set a goal and go after it. If you don't make it, then try again, but don't keep dumbing down your original goal. Yes, it is extremely impressive and I doubt anyone will break it for a while, but at least save some face and admit defeat, but still carry out your plans to finish your goal no matter how long it takes you......
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Why do you suspect an earthquake? Why not just a simple shift in the rock formation casue by typical and expected weathering and erosion freeze/thaw cycles? Cool pic none the less.
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Update: Talked to the fiance and she said that Crown Jewel has ice but still a lot of water flowing down it. Will probably be the same for most named waterfalls. Seeps, as someone mentioned earlier are where it will be at. Sunday, maybe, but there is a lot of groundwater too. Good luck out there!
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I'm just messing with you. I am sitting behind a computer right now and obviously not exploring the Gorge, but will try and get out further east until I can find something. be safe out there! it hasn't been that cold yet, and last year, it was colder for longer.....
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Yeah, just a little bit of ice and you expect someone to post if they see water ice in the Gorge? I'll post something when I get back on Sunday and then you can go after it!
My fiance is heading out there right now, so if it looks bad, then I will probably post that. However, she is not trained for tiny seeps like around Ainsworth so maybe you will have to go check it out for yourself?
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I cannot believe that this isn't a troll. Except from previous other posters who claim this guy is real and have gone out with him, this would have to be a joke!
I will give you some info though. Your first question is retarded. Prusiks are not meant to take falls directly onto the prussik. se a soloist or something else instead.
As for the ice screw, as soon as you remove it from the ice, clean it out by blowing through the opening to prevent freezing.
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There will always be some risk involved in climbing; we at the most can minimize those risks.
Yeah, we can all minimize them by not going into the mountains or tying in with you. You are an idiot. Go get some real instruction. Also, please post every time you go to "climb" something so we will at least be spared of having to be in the same area as youy when you need a rescue.
Maybe the mods can establish a mounties and Jamin weekend location thread (aka Where's Jamin?) so we will know where not to go each weekend. It could start out each time with: Jamin will be attempting Liberty Ridge this weekend. Do not go to mt. Rainier, or Jamin will attempt the W. Ridge of prussik, do not go anywhere in the Stuart Range this weekend......
Jamin, please keep posting, because you are so off on your posts and what you perceive as the correct way to do things, that it truly is comical. I guess I will feel bad once you get hurt, but for now it is funny, because you truly have no clue. You are heavy on the ambition, but low on technical stuff. Get help (both mentally and with your climbing skills) by a qualifed professional and quit living a dream world that consists solely of yourself and whatever images you have of being a knowledgeavble and safe climber.
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I find it funny that Jamin, who has proven over and over that he has no skills for climbing anything on Mt. Rainier, is nothing more than a hiker who wants to climb but lacks the skills to do so, brings danger to anyone who ventures out with him, is giving advice to a newbie interested in actually learning and listening to someone (a guide) who knows more than they do!
Jamin, have you ever been guided on an alpine climb like Rainier? Have you ever climbed Rainier? I already know that you have not. You have no basis for your replies and are out of your element.
As for me, I used a guide twice. Once, I won a free guided trip in the Tetons from a benefit from AAC in Jackson and climbed Caveat Emptor with Teton Mountan Guides and had a blast! It was no different than finding a safe rope-gun on cc.com as a partner and we had an awesome day in Death Canyon.
The other trip was a guided trip up Chimborazo, in Ecuador when my friends left after our previous climbs. Super chill, great climb, good group, and was not treated like it was an all or nothing death march. I would not have soloed the route and becasue of its easy grade, it really didn't take any of the fun out of it, because the route finding or technical aspects of the climb were nil to begin with.
I have done my own trips up Denali and Orizaba and loved the aspect of that too. But when you are around 100s of people, what adventure are you really referring to Jamin? yes, on Orizaba, there was only one other party around us and we were the first on top, so it did feel cool to be the only ones on route, but it was nt technical to find out way in the least.
Rainier is not that challenging on easier routes, but you and your partners do need to be experienced in glacier travel, crevasse rescue, and route finding (depending on time of year). Weather and altitude will be your biggest issues. I would highly recommend going up the Emmons Glacier instead of DC as it is much more aesthetic, less people, same difficulty, and the largest glacier in the lower 48. Simply awesome!
Jamin, quit posting about things you don't know sh*t about.....or simply go back to whatever hiker forum you crawled out from.....
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Research previous posts on this matter using the search button, thank you.
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Moto, Congratws on being a survivor! Not to sound harsh, but you know as well as anyone that your cancer cannot be directly attributed to the fluoridation in your water. Where did you live? Were you ever around smokers? Spend too much time in the sun? genetics? There are a thousand freak things of why you contracted cancer and no way to prove it was from fluoridated water, so stop suggesting unless definitive.
Tvashtarkatena, I would gladly take a tall glass of fluoridated water. Bring it on. It is not harmful, is why tooth decay in children in fluoridated areas is much less than those in areas without fluoridated water, and why over 66% of every US Citizen drinks fluoridated water and 75% of every major city's municipal supply is fluoridated. The American Dental Societ recommends it, it is a naturally occurring substance in your drinking water already (except some bottled waters)and has been proven time and time again to prevent tooth decay. There has never been any definitive proof that fluoridated water has ever caused any healdth effects in a population. if it did , it would not be as popular. As for cost, to fluoridate water costs a measly 0.31 cents/person/year. A family of four will shell out only $1.20/year vs. a child getting one cafvity (without insurance) and you will be shelling out $300/filling. Not to mention the long-term effects for dental care.
Also, instead of reading the Wacko conspiracy theory websites on this subject from some unqualified individuals, look for the straight facts and official studies that have been conducted. Also check out Wiki for unbiased info.
Bottom line, Millions of people used fluoridated water, it occurs naturally, is found in all municipal sources naturally, and is even in bottled water to purchase, which hats also been found to be bad for teeth, becasue fluoride is removed durin the purification process. I find it funny that people will cut on something so scientifically proven as healthy and then turn around and eat processed foods and drink sodas consisting of straight sugar, or light up a cigarrette.......
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I am in a similar boat as Pink. Grew up back east, in my early 30s and have never had one single cavity. Won't attribute it to good genes, because both of my parents have a ton of them from their childhood, pre-fluoridation. I whole-heartedly believe that fluoridated water is the reason, as I was a terrible brusher of teeth as a child and ate a ton of candy. I did drink a rediculous amount of milk though.......
People against fluoridated water are idiots who have no basis for argument over ill effects. I'd much rather drink fluoridated water from Mt. Hood then treated, heavily chlorinated water from, say Houston or Miami....
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Upper North Ridge of Stuart
W Ridge of Forbidde
NE Ridge of Triumph
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Ah but Fairweather, I am not left-wing. I typically vote Rep. like for the Oregon Govs. race and almost anyone who is against illegal immigration. I even voted for Bush in his first Pres. election. Now I just think he is an idiot. I did read the entire poll, just pointed out the villian portion. He is an idiot and I am ashamed to have him as president and ashamed that I voted for him.
As for the barbaristic nature of the Saddam execution, yes it is bad, but I still beliewve in an eye for an eye. The UN denounced the execution, but I whole heartedly disagree. What goes around, comes around. I would expect this for anyone regardless of nationality. If a leader in the U.S. was found guilty of such crimes, then they should be held accountable in the same manner as Saddam or even some murderous thug on the streets.
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Shut up Fairweather, you right-wing stiff. Bush was voted by the American Public as the most evil man in the world along with his cronies. They can die too if they are being lumped into the same boat with Saddam and the likes of Osama. To say that GW is worse than Osama and Saddam by a large margin? The AMerican People hate GW and all that he stands for. Me, personally, I just think the guy is a dumb ass tool who couldn't find his dick if it wasn't attached to him.....And as for Veindra, I agree with most of what he/she says. Fairweather, you are a dumbass...
[TR] Snake River - More FAs 1/19/2007
in Ice Climbing Forum
Posted
Are you implying that people would climb the rock or just being sarcastic?