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goatboy

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    camping/ lodging in Joshua tree

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    FYI, Unless you arrive early Wednesday morning of t-giving weekend, or earlier, it will be difficult to find a campsite even in some of the outlying campgrounds. I once got the last site at the last campground I checked, in White Tank or someplace that was way far from the climbing. So get there early if you can.

     

    This is true, but with hundreds of sites available in the park, and lots of turnover each day, it really just comes down to dumb luck and timing. Get there in the morning and be prepared to spend time driving around every campsite and talk to people, especially if they have a spare parking spot in their site or are packing up. You might be able to squeeze in with someone (2 cars per site are allowed) or save yourself a spot as someone is getting ready to leave. If you talk to folks, you'll find something.

     

    Hidden Valley is the best site for walking to climbing routes, so it's a hot commodity. Ryan is good too. After that, you're looking at Jumbo Rocks (full of RV's and families with kids) or further...

    Celiac's disease

    in Fitness and Nutrition Forum

    Posted

    Wow, this has been a great resource for me - thanks everyone.

     

    I am investigating what kind of SCOTCH I can safely drink. Sounds like many are okay, but some might have hidden risks from the coloring agents? Anyone know anything definitive about gluten and SCOTCH? Giving up IPA is hard enough, but Scotch? Please.

    Paul Bailey accident

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Latest news from the blogspot site. Sounds like some big challenges ahead.

     

    Paul had surgery to repair his wrists yesterday. The surgeon said he had never seen wrists in such bad shape; the bones, like pieces of a broken mirror, were completely shattered into many small bits by the impact. The surgeon worked until 11pm to complete the surgery because he had to piece many tiny fragments back together again and reset the pieces with plates and pins. He remarked that Paul's wrists were a small sacrifice to his brain. If he had not covered his face with them, he probably would not be alive today.

     

    Post surgery Paul has acquired a low-grade fever (99-100) which is most likely due to an infection in one of his wounds. This is still being evaluated. The pressure in his head was also up for a while, but has been brought back down to about 10. The doctor said this is not abnormal and could have been a result of all of the shifting around. The Orthopedic surgeon feels Paul will have a positive result and should have good mobility in his wrists again; however, he will require six months to a year of therapy. Paul is scheduled to also have surgery to repair bones in and around his face because the compression of the hit fractured many of them. This has to be done soon before they start to heal improperly; however, the medical team is waiting for him to stabilize first. He is still in the induced coma, which I believe he will not be weaned out of until he is stable and his surgeries are completed. My family has been very impressed by the medical team at Alfred Hospital where they have been providing world-class care, support and kindness. My family is more than grateful for the time that they spend explaining everything and for their overall dedication to providing top-notch care.

    Paul Bailey accident

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    More info:

     

    Paul did indeed work at Outward Bound in Mazama last summer and I can attest that he's an incredibly kind, charismatic guy and a safe climber who had some bad luck (a bolt reportedly sheared off or pulled out in his fall).

     

    He's a really good guy and any donation, even a tiny amount, would help and show him that the climbing community sticks together and supports each other through difficult situations. I think any good news he can get at this point would be welcome.

     

    Thanks everyone,

     

    Steve

    3 or 4 weeks in December... where to go?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Man, what's up with people thinking that NZ is a good place to go for climbing? I thought that once, but now I know: It sucks.

     

    NZ has a lot of things going for it: nice mountains, easy access, good hut system, cheap helicopter flights, but there is one overriding negative: the weather SUCKS. Don't waste your time or money coming here (yes, I live in NZ - and I don't even bother going into the hills anymore, it's just not worth it). Most of your trip will be spent sitting in the rain. The alpine climbing can be brilliant. The weather's just usually too bad to actually do much.

     

    Oh and to Hugh C. - NZ is a very small island (not counting the North Island which is pretty lousy all-around), and as such any weather system that prevents you climbing in one area will likely prevent you climbing just about anywhere else. So you can't just "pick up and go somewhere else". Well you can, but you won't get any climbing done there either. Some of the sport climbing areas are so overhung that they stay dry in the rain.

     

    If you like: sitting in a nice hut in the rain, bushwhacking through heinous vegetation, being in the rain, looking at rain, crappy rock, then NZ is for you. Oh and if you like bouldering, then Castle Hill is great (unless it's raining...).

     

    If you actually like climbing, especially alpine climbing, then NZ is not for you. There is some good rock here, but it doesn't even compare with Australia or North America. The only worthwhile destination spot *might* be Castle Hill.

     

    The Anti-NZ crusader (aka EastCoastBastard, aka One Grumpy Climber)

     

    PS: Australia will likely be very hot in Dec. too hot to climb the locals say. But the climbing is brilliant

     

    Wow, East Coast... you are a Grumpy Climber.

     

    Okay, so you live there. Why is that, if you hate the weather and the climbing so much, by the way?

     

    I have to say, having been to NZ three times for a total of about 2 months time.... you're wrong about the weather. It is very variable from one side of the island to the other, and the weather may be bleak in one area and not bad at all in another (this comment is in reference to the South Island).

     

    I also disagree about your comment that it's just not worth it. It is actually worth every bit of it. New Zealand is fabulous. Maybe you're trying to paint a bleak picture to keep people like me away ... but it won't work. I'm coming back.

     

    New Zealand is outrageous. And yes, it has challenging weather and changing conditions... kind of like the Cascades do.

    Labeled illustration of North Cascades

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Why don't you contact Kelly Bush at NCNP. She could likely point you towards whomever at NCNP makes the decisions regarding printing/selling stuff at their visitor centers - or at the least, advise you if this is worth pursuing. I point all this out in the hope that it will lead to the best quality production and the widest availability of Steph's excellent product. It may add some red tape and extra effort/coordination, but ultimately, if it's worth doing.... it's worth doing well.

    [TR] Whitehorse Rock (Wa Pass) - Flintlock 6p 5.8

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    In Burdo's "North Cascades Rock" book (1996 spiral bound) he has a picture labeled on p.89 that seems to identify your "Whitehorse Rock" as "Black Horse Point". Page 90 of the same book shows a topo of two Doorish/Cudcowicz routes on the East Face of BHP called "Archer" (4p, 5.8) and "Pampas Drifter" (8p, 5.8).

     

    I'm a little confused about the locations of these routes relative to yours, but if you can get a hold of a copy of Burdo's NCR book, it would be worth a look.

     

    If you are in North Seattle, you are welcome to come take a look at mine.

     

    The crude map in Red Fred 2nd edition p.292 does show a "White Horse Rock" in the approximate proper location.

     

    Yes, thanks for confirming - it's the 4p 5.8 (felt like 5.7 I recall) called "the Archer" which I did back in the day. I am guessing, but it seems to be so named due to the unusual stone arch which one walks across to get to the start of the route. A very unusual feature for this part of the country.

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