Leaderboard

Right, a space blanket! That saved @Trent and I from a potentially serious situation when we were caught out on the West Arete of Eldorado late season many years ago....great suggestion @Lostbolt. Same with light stove in the winter, esp. on routes expected to take most of a day.

Trip: Mount Angeles - Middle Peak East Gullies Trip Date: 02/03/2024 Trip Report: Decades ago, when I first started climbing, I would head over in the winter to scramble around on Mt. Angeles. The road is open all winter, the peak is close to the road, and the views grand from such an elevation at the edge of the range. Somehow though, I stopped going, seduced by harder, longer and higher winter objectives. But now that I am in my "mature mountaineer" phase some 22 years later, I went back with @cfire and @Kit (also in their mature climbing phase) for a civilized winter's outing. The weather wasn't quite as nice as on some of my earlier forays, and maybe the east gullies seemed shorter and less steep, but the charm of Angeles in winter remains. I'll try not wait another twenty years before I return! The road to hurricane ridge: The east gullies! @cfire getting to a narrow section @Kit topping out on the steeper section: Traversing the ridge to the main summit: Coming up a step in the ridge towards the main summit: More traversing: Cumbre! @Kit showing his pleasure at the views: Downclimbing to corkscrew around the summit to the SW and off: Almost off the steeper ground and back to mellow forest on the SW side of the summit: Gear Notes: Axe, crampons, helmet, 2nd tool handy if the gullies are icy Approach Notes: Switchback trail to ridge, up gullies to middle peak, traverse ridge to main summit and off the west side. Wrap around south side to hurricane ridge trail back to switchback trail.

Interesting trip report and Climb. The others that have commented are good climbers, some I know personally. Its nice to see you guys hear the advice and respond positively. I have read Down and actually own a copy, some of the ways things are done in there are only good for certain situations. Learning from others I.E a guide, The Mountaineers, Washington Alpine Club are worth it. Don't be afraid to reach out and ask to gain good experience bumming a ride to Hyalite and tagging along to learn is very possible and being up front and honest money and skill wise is nothing to be ashamed of. Proper planning including, having Plan A,B,C, A detailed topo of previous routes and descents, pre trip and post weather information seem so boring but will make your trip that much better. Don't rely on one source like technology or mountain project. Work or that hot dinner date ect are not worth compounding and increasing the risk of your life. If you made a bad call and showed up at noon or the next day, a good person would understand and be glad you are safe. I have been on longer than expected climbs 26hrs+/-. A mylar emergency bivy bag and a jet boil will keep you coming back the next day. I definitely understand tunnel vision planning to stop and eat drink at this time or this belay station and making it a must will help curb the crash. The approach and grade are something to work into, its hard to ditch the go big mindset but its a must for a long life. I have always been diligent about stair stepping. It never crossed my mind of attempting Trip Col. before I felt comfortable on chair peak NE Butt. ect. Take a few more years learning mixed and Ice in a controlled environment with less commitment, use these crags to hone your skills. The rope and gear are there to protect us for the oh shit moments, not to allow us to climb above our grade and take whippers. There is no shame in bailing at the base because its more than you expected. Good job making it out, seems like you all ready know this is a big learning experience. I hope that your next one is less of a pucker factor and more fun even if its only 2 pitches. Don't be afraid to reach out. Climb safe and stay Humble.