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[TR] Rainier- Dissapointment Cleaver 7/23/2004


snoboy

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Climb: Rainier-Dissapointment Cleaver

 

Date of Climb: 7/23/2004

 

Trip Report:

How Rainier did me in 40 hours Squam to Squam_

 

Our planned Kautz Glacier trip quickly turned into a single push on the DC after getting a good look at conditions from paradise, and hearing reports of multiple people getting hit by rockfall on the approach, and a very active icefall... frown.gif

 

Since we couldn't get a permit for the DC at that point in the day, we decided to try it in a single push.

 

Sum total is, that the Rainier newbie got his asskicked, and it was well deserved. Made it to Cathedral Gap way behind schedule, and watched the sky lightening, as I slowly got more and more hypothermic, on the hottest day of the year. WTF??? confused.gif :crosseyes: Tried to get some sleep at Muir, and was too cold, so I left Pandora there sawing logs, and hiked down into the blessed sunshine.

 

Conditions were better than I expected, given that it wasn't supposed to freeze up high.

 

I'll be back, maybe even this year, if only to get my ice screws back from the posthole machine. laugh.gif

 

Gear Notes:

had stuff, shoulda had a down jacket despite very warm temps.

 

Approach Notes:

Not much parking at Paradise after 12 on a Friday...

 

Snow from Pebble Creek up.

 

[edit]

Hmmm, I just got a PM from someone saying "Good job" blush.gif

 

I guess I didn't make it that clear that Cathedral Gap was as high as I got, that leaves a lot of mountain still left to go for next time... frown.gif

 

[/edit]

Edited by snoboy
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Hey SB, wave.gif

 

I was wondering what happened to you guys when I didn't see your headlamps coming out of Muir until like 3. My buddy and I summitted, but I felt like crap and he kept wanting to turn around. I guess 2 weeks of partying bigdrink.gif and working isn't a good way to prepare for a single-push on the DC.

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