[TR] Mesahchie Peak - Ice Fall Couloir 9/13/2014

[Kaskade]

Trip: Mesahchie Peak - Ice Fall Couloir

 

Date: 9/13/2014

 

Trip Report:

This route is well documented in other trip reports, so I'll just add our observations, focusing mostly on approach and descent tips.

 

As of 9/13, the couloir is melted out enough that the ice does not reach the top of the notch. The last 50 - 100' are on loose rocks, so I can't recommend the route any more this year.

 

Approach

The approach was not a ton of fun. Getting to Easy Pass is a piece of cake. From there, our recommendation is to proceed upwards directly from Easy Pass through 20 degree meadows basically as high as you can go, traversing slightly to the left. Then traverse across loose rock being careful not to dislodge rocks until you can gain the ridge proper. Once on the ridge, going is pretty easy. At the end of the ridge descend about 400 feet to the bivy, which is quite nice and has running water. If you do not get high enough you will not gain the ridge. On our way in, we spent 4 hours of tedious traversing to the bivy from Easy Pass. Using the route described above, we were able to cut that to two hours on the way out. Another party we encountered seemed to have misinterpreted the beta and traversed at a steady 6800, apparently through the cliff bands. They reported unpleasant times, and 6 hours from Easy Pass to the bivy sites. Not recommended.

 

The Ice

The ice climbing was fun, and mostly consisted of ice with a snow cover that made for excellent sticks, and prevented dinner plates. Screws went in nicely, and pickets became one with Mesahchie. Where ice was exposed it was gray in colour and broke up easily (not good). We climbed the right side of the ice fall to a melt water gully that brought us through the ice fall. This part was fun and easy, protected with one picket and one screw. Above this was a brief 60deg step to a few hundred feet of 40-50 degree ice that we simulclimbed and protected with 2-3 screws. We aimed to the left of the ice field, traversed through cravases and up to the couloir. The couloir is guarded by a substantial moat that required careful down climbing. Avoid the edge of the moat as its very deep and overhung. The couloir was sustained and enjoyable, save for the ice running out before we reached the notch.

 

The Descent

We did not attempt the summit, day was getting late and it looked pretty chossy.

 

Getting from the notch back to camp can be intimidating. Everything appears to be loose rock, and the way is not obvious or marked with carins. We descended 100-200' feet down the obvious gully until we saw darker coloured and more sound rock to the left. We traversed across the heads of several gullies until we were able to see the notch between Mesahchie and the bivy. At this point we descended to around 7400 on easier terrain. We held this elevation and traversed towards the bivy finding carins along the way. Once you sight the bivy the terrain continues to be unpleasant, but is technically easy. Not recommended in the dark. From the bivy climb back to the ridge, traverse as long as possible, then traverse downwards as the terrain requires. Reach the meadows you ascended, and enjoy solid soft ground beneath your feet back to Easy Pass.

 

Gear Notes:

We used 5 screws per party and carried 4 pickets per party. We also brought a small rock rack. 40m rope would work well if simulclimbing, else, 60m.

 

Approach Notes:

Did I mention there is a lot of traversing?

[JasonG]

We did not attempt the summit, day was getting late and it looked pretty chossy.

 

It actually isn't bad, and is pretty cool simul climbing from where you hit the ridge to the summit. Some looseness, but not dangerously so.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

 

I still need to run back up there to get the summit myself...

 

Nice work, kaskade!