denalidevo Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 Trip: Prusik Peak, South Face - Beckey/Davis Date: 9/1/2012 Trip Report: Around 9am Saturday September 1, 2012 Peter and I descended from our bivy atop Dragontail Peak (which we'd climbed via Backbone Ridge on Friday ) and began making our way to the South Face of Prusik to climb the Beckey/Davis route. Along the way, near Aasgard Pass, we cooked up a little coffee and breakfast, enjoying another gorgeous day in the Enchantments. NEAR PRUSIK PASS At 11:30 we were at the base of the West Ridge, sorting gear, hanging packs in trees. By noon Peter was leading the first pitch, a 5.8 chimney. MORE WIDE FOR PETER I followed, right side in - that seemed the easiest way, allowing use of another crack for stemming and facing the protection. Pitch two began with a bit of knobby face climbing into a right facing corner/flake system, about 5.7 I'd say. We ran the middle pitches - a series of corner systems and grooves - a bit short, navigating by feel, steadily moving up and right, away from the Burgner/Stanley route to our left, until we gained Snafflehound Ledge. I led pitch 6 up a vertical crack system, 5.9 I believe, placing a good deal of gear and built a belay about 100ft. up. Peter finished the next bit off, up to a ledge with a tree. PETER FOLLOWING P6 Then I ran up a gully/chimney to a short lieback which deposited me at the base of a sweet looking .10a thin hands crack leading to the summit. Initially I continued up, but realized I didn't have the gear to protect it, so I belayed Peter up, grabbed both pairs of green and red Camalots and then sent it clean! OH YEAH SO SICK! We summited at 5:30pm and promptly began our long descent to the trailhead - ending a tremendous two days of alpine climbing in the Enchantments. GOOD TIMES Gear Notes: Single Camalots .4-#4, doubles from .5-#2. Full set of nuts. Slings: 10 singles, 2 doubles, 1 Cordelette ea. 60m 9.4mm rope Approach Notes: Climbing Dragontail the day before meant we didn't have to hike up Ass-kick Pass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmatt Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 Nice one! The south face always provides for some awesome times. The alternate start is a good one as well and (IMHO) was easier than that chimney. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 yeah, sweet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlympicMtnBoy Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 Sweet, gotta love that 10a sting in the tail to a nice 5.9 route. ;-) I like your approach as well avoiding both trails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BootsandPants Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 Cool! I think this is a fun route that often gets overshadowed by the Bergner-Stanly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidevo Posted September 12, 2012 Author Share Posted September 12, 2012 (edited) Yeah - both Peter and I'd done the "alternate" start in the past climbing the Stanley/Burgner, and we were jonesin' to climb the chimney. Didn't think the chimney was hard, though definitely not as easy to protect. Edited September 12, 2012 by denalidevo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmatt Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 Maybe it was hard for me because I was doing it by headlamp. I also hate chimneys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlympicMtnBoy Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 Matt, didn't we climb that together? It wasn't by headlamp, it was by roasting sun lamp. ;-p I think you just don't like chimneys. Hehehe . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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