coldiron Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 Trip: Snoqualmie - New York Gully Date: 2/13/2012 Trip Report: I've seen it noted a couple times on here recently, but it bears repeating: conditions on New York Gully are super fat right now. Go get some! Personally, one of the best mixed climbs I've been on. We climbed it in 3 simul pitches to the shoulder, then stayed roped for the short traverse to the ridge crest. Gear: single 70m rope 6 cams (2 large link cams, 1 small link cam. 2 yellow and 1 blue TCU) 4 KB pins, 1 fat lost arrow, I baby angle. 2 stubby ice screws + 1 13 cm 5 offset nuts 1 spectre We used just about everything except the Spectre and angle. Could have used 13cm screws even more (3 screw placements ) but didn't need to because of good rock pro. A number 3 camalot wouldn't hurt for the crux, but we got along okay without. The crux step was harder than I thought it would be, although my partner handled it nicely on lead. I ended up bare-handed jambing the crack and gladly hung on the fixed tat at the top while switching back to tools to pull the lip. 3 pitches with a bit of simuling on each worked out pretty well with a 70 m. Lots of fun was had, accompanied by a spot of flailing about by me (leading w/skis on pack + chimney = cuss/grunt/thrash). A little less than 7 hrs on route, 12 1/2 hrs C2C. We had a mishap on the ski out. Be extra careful skiing down as there are lots of icy steps above and to the side of the Phantom Slide cliffs, and ski conditions were about as bad as the climbing was good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wetslide Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 (edited) I'll add some pics. Thanks Scott for the good (mostly) trip. Edited February 16, 2012 by wetslide Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_Sjolseth Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 Was up there today. Daniel and I did the direct start which was really fun and highly recommended. We wound up climbing it in 4 pitches, 8 hrs c2c. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldiron Posted February 16, 2012 Author Share Posted February 16, 2012 Nice work! What is the direct start? Easy to find? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_Sjolseth Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 The direct start begins below the "traverse" start in a deep cleft directly below the route. It's pretty obvious if you're looking for it. What a fun route. Starting up the first pitch of the direct start to NY Gully.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pu Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 Nice work fellas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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