[TR] East Wilmans Spire - Beckey-Staley Route 8/18/2007

[jpasteris]

Trip: East Wilmans Spire - Beckey-Staley Route

 

Date: 8/18/2007

 

Trip Report:

Climbed East Wilmans Spire on Saturday, 8/18, via the Beckey-Staley route. It is a good test of your alpine skills. The actual roped climbing is by no means extremely difficult and the crux is by far in the approach and descent of the snow filled gully below the notch.

 

Arrived at the parking area near Barlow Pass at approximately 8:30 AM. We rode our bikes the 4 miles in to the old Monte Cristo town-site. The road is significantly washed out in two places, requiring you carry the bike a bit, but it still saves significant time going in and out.

 

Signs clearly mark the trail to Glacier Basin, and the 2-mile hike is pretty quick and straightforward. From the basin at the base of the talus field we refilled water bottles while waiting to see if the dense cloud layer would burn off. Once we could tell it was going to lift, we started up the talus field toward the gully where we could just catch a glimpse of some snow. Scrambling up the talus field isn't too difficult until you get higher up where the rocks get smaller and more likely to slide.

 

 

 

The most challenging aspect of the climb begins when you reach the snow that it is still lingering in the gully. There were two separate patches of snow, the first only maybe 50 feet. The second much longer. We put on crampons and grabbed our axes and ascended with relative ease. Off of the first section of snow and back on rock, we considered our options and decided to try to stick to the rock rather than ascending the second snow section that looked steeper, more exposed and bit more difficult. The rock presented some challenges negotiating 4th class terrain, avoiding rock fall and squeezing by the snow.

 

 

Finally reached the 5960-ft gap, ditched some gear and headed for the east notch. The climbing is pretty straightforward. We added a really short pitch to the climb due to some significant rope drag on the first pitch. The final pitch is the smoothest, with one or two 5.6 moves and some fun crack climbing. Reached the summit (6120 ft.) at about 3:30 PM. We chilled on the small summit for a few minutes and then, with weather moving back in, decided we better start the long descent.

 

 

Three rappels get you back down to just below the east notch. Someone left a decent looking Mammut Revelation rope tied around a big rock feature just left of the last sling-ridden rap station. The end was clearly cut. Not sure what that was all about, but we rapped off it rather than having to use our rope and risk rock fall while pulling it. Scrambled back down to the gap, grabbed our stuff and discussed how we wanted to descend the snow-filled gully. We opted for a combination of down climbing and rapelling, figuring that was our safest option. You can see where other parties have had the same idea, and we were pretty much able to use those rap stations. Two slow and tedious rappels and some small sections of down-climbing got us nearly to the top of the first snow section. Some more down-climbing and one more rappel off a horn put us at the top of the talus field where some tenuous steps led to easier talus surfing.

 

 

 

We were back in the basin at the same place where we filled up with water earlier in the day at about 7:30 PM. Ate some food, refilled water and hustled out of the basin. Back to the bikes about 8:30 with some light still left. The bikes paid off big for the ride out, turning 4 miles of road hiking into a pleasant nighttime cruise. Back to the car at 9:30. We were going to hang out and try Vesper on Sunday, but with the long day and incoming weather we hit the road for home.

 

It was a fun alpine adventure for sure. We’re glad we did it, but not sure we’ll be back there repeating it anytime soon. Kyle might have some pics of the climbing, as I left my camera in my bag at the gap.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Medium rack, crampons, two ice tools each (could have got by with one the way we did it; might want two if you stick to the snow), some webbing and/or slings you don't mind leaving behind to rappel off

 

Approach Notes:

Mtn. bikes from trailhead to Monte Cristo; 2 mile hike to Glacier Basin; talus scrambling with high potential for rock fall; mixed snow and 4th class rock to the 5960-ft. gap

[catbirdseat]

Nice job. I've done the route three times and 12 hours car to car is close to the fastest I've done it.

 

As you say, this route really does test your alpine skills. It throws different conditions at you each time you climb it.

[rob]

Nice! I really wanted to do this route this year, but I don't think I'll get around to it, and it sounds like the gully is kinda melted out? I think I'd probably enjoy it more earlier in the season.

 

thx for the TR

[catbirdseat]

There is another approach via Seventy-six Gulch, but I haven't tried that one. It is said there is a trail to a cabin up there now.

[jpasteris]

I think I'd probably enjoy it more earlier in the season.

 

 

Yeah, the approach might be a little more enjoyable earlier in the season when you can just cruise the snow the whole way. As catbirdseat says, there are some other approach options that avoid the gully. The gully is just the most direct one. I don't have any beta on the other approaches, as I've never done them.

[rob]

The gully sounds like part of the fun, why would anyone want to avoid it?

[merganzer]

Thanks for the TR Joe, the gully was most certainly part of the fun and added a lot to the overall day for me both mentally and physically. I will post some more pics tonight.

[merganzer]

Thanks for the TR Joe, the gully was most certainly part of the fun and added a lot to the overall day for me both mentally and physically. I will post some more pics tonight.

 

The First Ice Block

Scary and Airy Traverse

Coming up the Gully

The first Pitch

Joe On the Summit

 

No pics of the final pitch the camera was in Joe's pocket I believe!

Edited August 24, 2007 by merganzer