merganzer

Thanks for the info, I was referring to the State Park. However was planning on using the park as a base camp and willing to drive a bit for some snow.

Headed over there this weekend with wife and 11 month old, anyone have any suggestions.

+1 for the ergo, however I did not like the ergo when my son was really little we used a bjorn until about 6 months the infant insert for the ergo did not work very well for me. Did not like the wraps although wife does,

Made this box in 2004 in northern Minnesota Drove it west to Seattle with a side trip south to jtree in January/February as a moving road trip. It was packed to the max although I do not know the exact weight. I still use it as a storage box. I just went to the hardware store bought some 2x2's for the frame, a sheet of marine grade plywood, a can of primer, and some caulk to fill gaps. Just went to work after some simple drawings and a little thought. You should give it a go and see what you get.

You win that does suck

The class 4 section is not long maybe 40 feet or so, however I just climbed the route and my partner is not comfortable on really any terrain not roped up so we just were roped up the whole time. The only downside is that it takes a bit longer and some people may look at you funny but who cares unless you are climbing to impress people.

Agreed, although sometimes it is nice to be able to get out on Mondays less people out there as long as you can find a partner.

Thanks for sharing and nice photographs. Just an FYI some of the links seemed a bit screwy you may want to check them.

Are the last three miles an easy bike ride(human power)? I am assuming that it is.

Thx, Last question is there a walkoff from the top or is a rappel a necessity? Nice pictures and thanks for the TR.

How long is the rappel?

PM Sent

Let me know what you lost.

This is awesome, and worth the wait although you would hope that it would not take so long.

Nice, way to catch the weather window! How long did it take to get to camp on the 5th and how long was your day on the 6th?

Trip: Forbidden Peak - East Ridge Direct Date: 9/9/2007 Trip Report: Joe and I climbed the east ridge of Fobidden last Sunday and we practically had the mountain to ourselves, although we did hear some voices on the ridge but never located the source. We started out the fairly easy although abit long approach from high camp to the single gendarme before the route just after 6 am. We dropped packs a bit lower once we got out of the gully. No need for crampons, we did cross a section of about 100 feet of ice at around 7am and I was glad to have my axe. We started out simul-climbing and were moving at a pretty good pace. We prematurely stoped because we thought we were at the 5.7 pitch, however we were not and we never got back into the simul-climb until after the 5.8 step crux pitch(thanks Joe, it was actually my lead and I was just not feeling it). It would have been a faster ascent had we stayed simul-climbing for a bit longer but there is always next time. Our mistake was we confused the fun knife edge with the knife edge as labeled in the Cascade Alpine Guide. Route finding is straight forward as you can stay close to the ridge crest most of the way. We reached the summit just before 3pm. To get down we used the fabled east ledges descent. I was a bit apprehensive about the descent after the warning in Nelson's book and hearing a few horror stories here and there. However, Joe and I found it fairly easy and were back to the notch in just over an hour from the summit. We did five rappels, which were all visible from above except the third which becomes visible once down most of the way it helps it has a red sling. After the fifth rappel we worked down and climbers left to another red sling then traversed the ledges working down a bit to stay on easy ground. A couple of hours later and we were back at the car and driving home! Gear Notes: Light Alpine Rack, bring lots of slings to simul-climb alot of the ridge. We brought crampons and ice axes and only used the ice axes for a short 100 foot section of ice. Approach Notes: Lots of marmots and great weather!

The First Ice Block Scary and Airy Traverse Coming up the Gully The first Pitch Joe On the Summit No pics of the final pitch the camera was in Joe's pocket I believe!

Thanks for the TR Joe, the gully was most certainly part of the fun and added a lot to the overall day for me both mentally and physically. I will post some more pics tonight.

Anybody have any beta on NJ. Traveling out that way and would like to take my nieces climbing. Thanks

They always seemed twisted around or stuck on each other both while climbing and after. Maybe it is just my style but I never had that problem with TCU

I have not had that specific problem, however I do own a set of metolius tcu and have had years of reliable service. Recently one of my climbing partners purchased a rack including c3 and after climbing with them I am not impressed. It seemed like the wires got caught on everything nylon and they would not sit properly on the gear sling. I say take it back and stick with the metolius. The rest of my rack are the old style camalots which have also provided years of reliable service.

Looks and sounds like it was a great day to be climbing. Nice panorama!

Has anyone used the Mammut 7.5 Twilight twin ropes? Or does anyone have any opions about twin ropes?

Can you still ski worm flows this late in the season.