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Trip: The Brothers - South Couloir

 

Date: 5/8/2016

 

Trip Report:

 

I had some plans fall through at the last minute for Sherpa so I joined some friends on their trip. Forecast was hot on Saturday but cooling quickly Sunday with 10% chance of precip, and some clouds. Good enough to go for sure.

 

We took a midmorning ferry into Kingston and got to the trailhead around 11:30. We took a leisurely hike in during the hottest part of the day - a bit miserable, but it was in the shade. No bugs. Perfect weather.

 

We woke up at 4:15 am to mists and fog, and headed up with headlamps. The trail out of camp is flagged well. The worst part is through an old burnt out section near the bottom of the avy fan. Continuous snow began around 4000'.

The_Brothers_-_May_2016_015.JPG

 

We had excellent snow conditions all the way up. We scrambled up one short rock section just to climber's right of the hourglass. Soon, the snow was steep and icy enough that we donned crampons. As a bonus we broke through the clouds here. The going was easy, using an old, wide (frozen) boot path from the day before.

 

The_Brothers_-_May_2016_019.JPG

 

The top involved a short, icy traverse with some nasty runout before attaining the summit block.

 

The_Brothers_-_May_2016_042.JPG

 

(On descent)

The_Brothers_-_May_2016_041.JPG

 

Summit views were spectacular, with a sea of clouds below us and only peaks above 6000' poking through.

 

The_Brothers_-_May_2016_036.JPG

 

N summit from S summit:

The_Brothers_-_May_2016_035.JPG

 

Gear Notes:

Ice axe, crampons, helmet.

 

Approach Notes:

Easy, maintained trail to Lena Lake. Unmaintained trail with obstacles to camp at around 3000' just after crossing the stream at the fork.

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Posted

This is a good time of year to get Constance, the tedious scree is mostly snow covered and the campsites should be snow free. I would recommend the West Arete if you want a bit more spice.

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