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KaskadskyjKozak

[TR] Golden Slam - Standards 8/27/2016

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Trip: Golden Slam - Standards

 

Date: 8/27/2016

 

Trip Report:

 

My quest to bag another 9K peak (Fernow) was cockblocked by fire closures so I moved up a larch-season hike, making it a not-so-larch-season hike. C'est la vie. And it don't matter much, as a great time was had and two more Bulgers were tapped. FYMF!

 

We approached on Saturday via the PCT and camped at Snowy Lakes:

P1020410.JPG

 

We set up tents and headed up to Golden Horn that afternoon.

 

P1020417.JPG

 

Gully below the summit of Golden Horn. Chossy but short and mostly fun:

P1020418.JPG

 

Golden Horn mountain p0rn:

P1020434.JPG

 

Rappelling from the summit of Golden Horn:

P1020419.JPG

 

We got back to camp at 7. Next day we headed up to climb Tower.

 

Rather than posthole in scree around climber's left of the cliff band below the cave, we opted for a clean but exposed class 3 ledge:

P1020444.JPG

 

The chossy ledge between the cave and the main gully of Tower:

 

P10204542.JPG

 

The main gully of Tower Mountain. Just clean enough and steep enough to be exhilirating and fun:

P1020465.JPG

 

Summit stoke:

P1020472.JPG

 

Golden Horn from the summit of Tower:

P1020483.JPG

 

Downclimbing the main gully:

 

P1020485.JPG

 

 

Gear Notes:

Helmet. 30m rope to rappel from GH. C4 #1 suffices for pro.

 

Approach Notes:

PCT is easy on the knees and eyes. Snow free.

Edited by KaskadskyjKozak

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Nice! Been thinking that would make a fun weekend.

 

Would those climbs be fun for a less experienced climber? Not so much worried about the technical climbing but those gully approaches...

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Nice! Been thinking that would make a fun weekend.

 

Would those climbs be fun for a less experienced climber? Not so much worried about the technical climbing but those gully approaches...

 

The gully on GH is short and not bad. Totally fine for beginners. You might want to just lower them from the top to avoid the awkward rappel though

 

Tower's gully was fun for me on the ascent and tedious on the descent. It stressed out my partners (beginners) and they went a lot slower than I would have

 

 

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my memory of descending Tower's gully is it is one of the worst in my 35 years the Cascades.

 

I still think the Crapcadian is the worst descent route ever.

 

Then again, it's been a few years. :)

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