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[TR] Mt. Torment - South Ridge 6/25/2017

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Trip: Mt. Torment - South Ridge


Date: 6/25/2017


Trip Report:

Me and Tristan climbed Torment by the South Ridge Route on Sunday. We had planned to do the Torment-Forbidden Traverse but the rigors of the approach and climbing with backpacks (despite going pretty light) were too much and we gave it up after just Torment. It was still a good trip in the mountains with great weather and we did climb a big mountain.


We started Saturday midday from the Torment Basin "trail". The rangers were of no help with a description or conditions of the route. We went this way due to permits and the fact that the road was closed just beyond so Boston Basin was a lot longer approach than normal. To do it over I still might go from Torment, even if the road was open - the BB trail was actually worse than I remember it being last year.


Beckey was actually spot on and only slightly vague with his approach description. When it gets crappy and brushy stay close to the cliffs, I think. We camped at the 6600' saddle on the south ridge of Torment, it took about 6 hours with several long breaks and a fairly moderate pace... plus some off route bush whacking.


The next morning we packed up and climbed the south ridge, the notch was an easy walk on snow to reach, actually we skipped some class 4 described in Nelson & Potterfield and just walked right into the first dihedral. We ended up pitching out basically the whole route to the high notch not on purpose but because every time we were ready to simul the rope drag made the leader stop and belay. I recommend no more then 30m of rope between you.


Climbing with an overnight backpack on is tough apparently, plus it was hot, so at the high S ridge notch we decided we better not attempt the traverse. We ditched packs and scrambled up the last bit, placing a few pieces.


Looking out toward Sahale from the upper notch:



Photo of the traverse from the summit:



We used Nelson & Potterfield for the route beta and it worked well, plus just follow the tat, there is tons. Please keep your knife handy on the descent and clean some of it.


We rapped off and down the gully onto the Taboo Glacier, then hiked down to the upper bivys in BB. There was just one melted out and dry. We had a leisurely evenining and morning, then hoofed it back to the car. I think the BB trail is worse than last year, more deadfall and more brush.


The traverse from BB:



Close up of Forbidden:



Gear Notes:

Approach shoes were great, just a little wet on the approach due to snow.


60m rope

7 cams up to #2

set of nuts

rap webbing

aluminum axe and crampons

trekking poles would have been nice on the snowfields and approach


Approach Notes:

Beckey or Nelson & Potterfield both nailed it, just listen to them and not your brain like we did. Near the top of the forest we went too far left into the trees hoping for relief from brush but it didn't work well. Stay right of all major creeks.

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Was there much snow still on the north side rock of Torment?


Good effort, it is a bit tougher to climb with packs, that's for sure! At least you got a good feel of what to expect next time, and a summit as well. Torment is a great prize in and of itself.

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Yeah, there was lots of snow everywhere for the time of year. The North faces and N. Ridge of Forbidden seemed to be holding a lot still.

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