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PellucidWombat

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About PellucidWombat

  • Rank
    n00b
  • Birthday 08/10/83

Converted

  • Homepage
    http://www.markpthomas.com/
  • Occupation
    Structural Engineer, Independent Contractor/Consultant (currently in software), Professional Wombat
  • Location
    Draper, UT
  1. I am going to be in Switzerland on a family trip in the summer of 2018, anywhere between mid-July to sometime in August. I am really hoping to be able to climb a little by coming early or staying late. I have always wanted to climb Mont Blanc & the Matterhorn . Is anyone interested in meeting up there for such a climb? For Mont Blanc, I am particularly interested in ascending the Italian Normal Route (II, PD+, cl. 3), although I am open to other suggestions from the French or Italian side. I currently live in Salt Lake City, so if you're from the PNW and want to escape the weather to southern Utah, or to climb ice around SLC and Ouray, we could always climb together first. Or in the early part of summer I could see myself heading out that way for some climbs.
  2. I am going to be in Switzerland on a family trip in the summer of 2018, anywhere between mid-July to sometime in August. I am really hoping to be able to climb a little by coming early or staying late. I have always wanted to climb the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc. Is anyone interested in meeting up there for such a climb? For the Matterhorn, I am particularly interested in ascending the less crowded Liongrat/SW Ridge (AD+ III+ (5.3+)) from Italy, and then descending the standard Hornligrat Ridge (AD- III- (5.3)) into Switzerland. You can link the start/finish of these two routes via trams and a short bit of easy glacier hiking. Although I am open to other suggestions. I currently live in Salt Lake City, so if you're from the PNW and want to escape the weather to southern Utah, or to climb ice around SLC and Ouray, we could always climb together first. Or in the early part of summer I could see myself heading out that way for some climbs.
  3. Hey CCers, The weather last weekend kept me climbing in the CA High Sierra, but I am probably hitching a ride to WA this Thursday (Stuart-pending) and I'm still hoping to do this climb! Especially Friday, but possibly Saturday if the forecast improves. After going over the details a bit more, I want to attempt this car-to-car from the south. I will be in the mountains tomorrow night, so if you're able and interested, contact me ASAP. I'm fine leading all pitches (although sharing is nicer), but I would want a partner who is OK with a lot of simul-climbing and is proficient at following 5.9 trad at a minimum, and physically fit for a long outing! As for me, my longest continuous push was 39 hrs, I have done a few +10,000 ft gain days and one over 40 miles, I'm solid at 5.9 alpine trad and some 5.10, and for trad this summer I've done the SW Face of Conness in the Sierra (IV-V, 5.10c, leading the 5.10 OW), Beckey-Chouinard on S Howser Tower (leading all the wide, taking the original wide variation), and the NWRR of Half Dome in 1.5 days (following/freeing up to 5.9+ with the overnight pack on). I've done a number of carryovers in the Tetons & Sierra so feel good about climbing with a heavy pack, although I'd want to keep things light for this! Cheers, Mark
  4. Partner Needed for N Ridge of Stuart

    I'm definitely gunning for the Direct Start (complete NR) and climbing the gendarme! Looks like a long, fun outing with some nice variety.
  5. Partner Needed for N Ridge of Stuart

    oh, and just to clarify, with a northern approach, I am assuming a descent of the West Ridge as I know the Sherpa Glacier is too melted out by this point to be a good descent route. W Ridge looks like a pain compared to Cascade Couloir, but more fitting with my preferences than the cons of the southern approach, although I'm happy to hear suggestions!
  6. Hey CCers, I'm flying in from CA for a long weekend to do some PNW climbs, and unfortunately my partner had to back out on doing the N Ridge of Stuart (Direct Start) due to some back issues. I want to attempt this car-to-car from the north, and my flight reservation (and backup reservation) have me limited to doing this on either the weekend of September 7 or September 14. Basically, the days I could do the climb on (allowing for going into the next day from a long outing or 'unplanned' bivy): Saturday, September 7 (Most preferred) Sunday, September 8 (will be more tired to start, though) Monday, September 9 (Preferred) or, using my weather backup flight (less preferred, unless weather cancels the above dates): Saturday, September 14 Sunday, September 15 (will be more tired to start, though) Monday, September 16 Ideally I'd wan't to do a warmup climb with any partner, which I could do the day before any of the dates listed above - Outer Space seems ideal as it is high on my list, and in the area, so that can be climbed and allow enough rest for a very early start on Saturday. I'm fine leading all pitches (although sharing is nicer), but I would want a partner who is OK with a lot of simul-climbing and is proficient at following 5.9 trad at a minimum, and physically fit for a long outing! As for me, my longest continuous push was 39 hrs, I have done a few +10,000 ft gain days and one over 40 miles, I'm solid at 5.9 alpine trad and some 5.10, and for trad this summer I've done the SW Face of Conness in the Sierra (IV-V, 5.10c, leading the 5.10 OW), Beckey-Chouinard on S Howser Tower (leading all the wide, taking the original wide variation), and the NWRR of Half Dome in 1.5 days (following/freeing up to 5.9+ with the overnight pack on). I've done a number of carryovers in the Tetons & Sierra so feel good about climbing with a heavy pack, although I'd want to keep things light for this! A couple of reports of some recent/relevant climbs: Tour de PALISADES Norman Clyde Firebird Ridge (IV, 5.9) - Norman Clyde Twilight Pillar (III, 5.9) - Palisade Crest N to S (IV, 5.8) Teton Grand Slam Or, if no one is interested in Stuart, how about NE Butt of Slesse? Cheers, Mark
  7. [TR] Mt Rainier - Ptarmigan Ridge 7/10/2012

    Looks like you guys had a great climb! I'm glad to see my TR was handy in the route research too :-) I was trying for Curtis Ridge over that same weekend, and that recent warming made the rockfall hazard too dangerous. Like you said, more rocks came down over the July 7-8 than a much longer stretch of time earlier. Good thing you guys got an early start on Ptarmigan! That step looks higher too. While I couldn't really climb up the snow seen covering the lower third in my TR, I could at least use it a bit for a foot placement, so I wonder if you found the crux to be just before the piton? Or if you still thought it was the next couple of moves above it getting above that wedged block?
  8. Trip: Tuolumne Meadows - FA of Effervescent Glory (Wi0) Date: 12/30/2011 Trip Report: Originally posted on SuperTopo, I figured some PNW ice climbers might like this This has been the driest winter in California since the 1970s, and while Tuolumne Meadows is normally a multi-day ski from the nearest road in the winter, this year we could drive across the pass as late as mid-January. Ice lines were forming up on the various granite domes of Tuolumne Medows and first ascents were being put up left & right, merely minutes from the road. [img:center]http://www.supertopo.com/photos/11/41/235666_17848_L.jpg[/img] Sometimes one just needs a different perspective on climbing in order to see the potential for new route. The Chief helped me realize a new way of looking at ice climbing during an exchange of ideas on SummitPost as to whether steepness had anything to do with the difficulty of an ice climb. In the spirit of this comment, I went out and did a FA of a pretty difficult ice line. I think I'd rate it Wi0 (Walkable ice, 0). [video:youtube]W56y6U64HoE It was a cold December morning and the ice had formed thick on the route. For safety I made an anchor of two stacked logs on shore, in the event that the ice failed me. Eventually I ran out of rope, and in order to push the route to a logical conclusion on a nice lake ledge, I risked life and limb, cast off the rope, and soloed through the final ice bulge crux. [img:center]http://www.supertopo.com/photos/11/41/235668_18751_L.jpg[/img] Scoping out the route the night before on ice skates. The climb was a great workout, and a big success. [img:center]http://www.supertopo.com/photos/11/41/235669_20067_L.jpg[/img] Har-duh ice climbing Now be warned that although I've conservatively rated the climb at Wi0, the rating is a bit sandbagged and is not without dangers and a need to exercise caution. Another brave adventurer had this to add: If you listened closely, the lake did make some interesting booming noises each time my pick slammed into the ice. [img:center]http://www.supertopo.com/photos/11/41/235670_5693_L.jpg[/img] Where to next? The potential of where our climbing can take us is only limited by our imaginations. There are all sorts of potential for other climbing ascents rated without regard to steepness. Gear Notes: Standard lake ice climbing gear. Approach Notes: Drive on Highway 120 until you reach Tenaya Lake. Park on the side of the road and walk towards the route. You can't miss it!
  9. [TR] Mt Rainier - Liberty Ridge 7/17/2011

    Doh! Still good enough :-)
  10. [TR] Rainier - Ptarmigan Ridge rock variation 7/24/2011

    I agree with Oleg's advice. I had Couscous with chopped salami for dinners, and a flask of Jameson whiskey that I enjoyed from our first night's camp all the way down to the climbing ranger shelter
  11. [TR] Rainier - Ptarmigan Ridge rock variation 7/24/2011

    It's too bad you couldn't join us! It would be nice to do another climb with you in the PNW or elsewhere sometime. Best of luck on your attempt of Ptarmigan Ridge.
  12. [TR] Rainier - Ptarmigan Ridge rock variation 7/24/2011

    Don't forget about lugging up the tripod as well! For many shots, especially while climbing, digital point-and-shoots work just as well, and after post-processing in Photoshop I often can't tell the difference. However, for doing special things like taking advantage of natural polarization, working with high contrast (e.g. snow) or night photography, you've gotta go the DSLR route.
  13. [TR] Rainier - Ptarmigan Ridge rock variation 7/24/2011

    Camera weight is more than worth it if you love art like I do. Plus it's good training weight :-) I got a lot of great shots with the weather we had, so if you want to see more shots, including night shots and annotated route photos, the full album is here. Anastasia - great call again on the Mowich approach. I've never seen views Rainier like that. It looks like a much different mountain from that direction!
  14. [TR] Mt Rainier - Liberty Ridge 7/17/2011

    I'm going for PR this weekend. Hopefully I have better luck with weather on Rainier 2011 Round 2!
  15. [TR] Mt Rainier - Liberty Ridge 7/17/2011

    Thanks for the water protecting advice! I grew up in Utah and my mountaineering experience is mostly limited to California and the intermountain states, so I've never had to deal with moisture too much. I'm out of my element in the wet PNW :-)
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