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RichardKorry

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About RichardKorry

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    journeyman

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    Seattle, WA
  1. free FREE: Alpinist magazines 14-28

    I hadn't heard about the fire - no matter - JBo6 gets them to enjoy
  2. free FREE: Alpinist magazines 14-28

    Cleaning out the closets Alpinist magazines 14 (Winter 2005-2006) through 28 (Autumn 2009) in perfect shape I'm in NE Seattle
  3. NE Buttress Goode 7/23-7/25 2017

    My partner Curt Feig and I have been talking about doing the NE Buttress on Goode for many years but circumstances never worked out for us. This year we finally found the sweet convergence of weather, availability, health and luck to go climb this classic. There's a lot of descriptions out the route which I won't repeat but I will pass on some beta that we would have found useful if known to us. Quick summary for those with a short attention span: Amazing moderate alpine climb that requires a lot of effort to get in and out. There's a whole lot of mountain. The rangers at Marblemount said they leave the self issue permits out till they open at 7am. They don't. We got there at 6:50 and the permits were gone. Instead we took a number and waited just like at the DMV. I was at the door when it opened at 7:01am and walked in with my #6 ticket prominently displayed. No one else followed me through the door apparently everyone else was content to talk about custom van conversions in the parking lot. Hmmm. I walked up the ranger and waited with my #6 ticket in hand. "Can I help you?" Sure can! We were out with our permits by 7:10. Doing the approach from Bridge Creek trailhead off SR20 converts the adventure from being primarily a climbing trip to a climbing hiking extravaganza. There's a lot of miles to cover. If we had done it via Stehekin it would still consume a lot of time (lots of waiting for boats and shuttles) but that reduces the amount of miles hiked significantly - over 20 miles. Bridge Creek costs less and you have more control over your destiny. In the end, the hiking was fine but we did it in really hot weather going in and coming out which really sapped our energy and kept hydration a constant concern. Bring a Forest Service parking pass as the Bridge Creek trail head isn't in the park. We found no logs to cross the North Fork at the normal crossing point which is described by the endless beta and hand drawn maps. We continued up the trail even when you couldn't see any trail due to the heavy foliage. We continued up till we broke out of the dense undergrowth. At that point we were well right of the normal crossing but the snow field over the river allowed us safe easy passage over the North Fork. We climbed up snow and rock areas to ascend low fifth rock left a water fall to move through the cliffs. We continued angling left towards the traditional bivi areas. Eventually we found a flat spot at 5500' that others had bivied at as well with room for our two bivi sacks. This was before we'd need to either drop down hundreds of feet to continue left or ascend hundreds more to move above. You can gain the buttress on the right without needing to go way left to get on the glacier. However, snow is melting fast so that approach may or may not still work. It did for us and made that section quite quick and easy. Approaching spot to gain ridge The route itself is amazing and stunning. The rock is incredibly well jointed and there is always one more flat or in-cut hold for the entire 3000 feet. You are climbing moderate rock with a pack and thinking that perhaps this section will blank out. Nope - look around, the holds always appear. The beta for the climbing we found the most helpful came from Steph Abegg: "Just stay on the ridge." I felt the climbing kept moving me off to one side or the other but there was always a good way to get back on top of the ridge itself. If you feel like the route is harder than 5.6 then you are off route. Lots of 5.fun climbing on the ridge The views are incredible and we were the only ones on the route that day. It was quite special. We dropped our packs at the notch and climbed to the summit free of that burden - it felt wonderful. The summit bivi looks amazing. There are three rap stations from the summit to the notch. A 60m rope worked well - 55m might be a stretch. There are three rap stations from the notch into the gully. For the second it is better to rap over the rock trending rappers left of the gully as that allows you to finish your rap at the third station. The gully is chossy and tedious but not dangerous like the Bedayn. We were given beta to stay left of the washout and descend the burn. We did that for a long way but it sucked as in unconsolidated soil dusty charcoal dead burnt tree too steep sucked. We eventually came to our senses and traversed to the right side of the washout to the climbers trail. Life no longer sucked. Our beta: as you exit the gully and terrain begins to mellow go right of a spiny ridge and head towards the top of the washout. After that it is just lots of miles, liters of water and lots of pain. Accepting and embracing the pain made it much more tolerable. Gear Notes: 60m 8mm rope - we climbed with it doubled the whole time a set of nuts w/ double of larger nuts single set of cams to 1" 20 slings and 20 biners ice axe crampons we used approach shoes for the hike and climb which worked fine
  4. FS: older ice screws

    Photos are in craigslist I have a variety of older screws that from the 1990s when I thought I was going to get into ice climbing but it never really happened. I'm finally cleaning out the closet. Titanium screws have never been placed. Steel screws have placed once or twice for practice but never really used. One photo is of 5 ice pitons (hammer in/screw out) from the 1980s (or earlier) that I'm giving away for free. One photo is of 2 titanium screws that I got for alpine climbing rather than ice climbing. $10/each Two photos are of 4 steel ice climbing screws that Black Diamond knock offs that were designed in the USA and manufactured in South Korea. $10/each $50 for the whole lot. I'm in NE Seattle. I'll ship if buyer covers the shipping.
  5. Cams, Screws, Axes, Biners and a lot more

    PM sent about camp ice axe
  6. I bought these when the Switchblades just before I met that special someone and moved my budding interest in ice climbing to exclusively back country skiing. Three kids later I'm ready to let these go. These are small sized 3-8. I don't know what exact measuring system that is but they fit my 8 1/2 boots fine. I think they go up to a 9 or so. They have never been used and come with the original instructions. Being rigid these are meant for ice climbing not general mountaineering. I live in North Seattle. If you want them shipped that would be extra. [img:left]http://ol2goq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pQsUc1m69k0DpjHAIhnC8OVM4kXn8_qPkUvACpCpioMDZ98p7gW7UgEFeEiy2ibVSnIqg6CO5n0EM6ZH-l-8db5Mb9yhng55q/076.jpg[/img] [img:left]http://ol2goq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pKF5PH82sW9mu88Pt5k5RniW4UqwqyLWTQRouLUBRcT9L2nrSVOMJIzK-wGYRUt_nqQ9UFri2zZoNKgrvSpMRbpnpRwcUYEQ1/P1030715.jpg[/img] [img:left]http://ol2goq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pEkYj-1Cke_x8pN12c17M-6cQ_9q3ZhHXWHxpZ3bOsNhhUCViOEo2pArJ-91U3qqLQEvUrFkEYyrfc0A_iTs9GF8V3EkeCZwg/P1030718.jpg[/img]
  7. [TR] Eldorado - West Arete 7/24/2010

    I ran into Bill Pilling at a memorial celebration for a mutual friend that died from brain tumor recently. Bill has lots of winter FA in the Cascades and is living down in Bishop CA now. I talked to him about the route and he did it twice in mountain boots and enjoyed it. We did it in rock shoes which meant more on our backs but the climbing felt more secure. We were happy to switch back to boots for the snow and the subsequent 4th classing above.
  8. [TR] Eldorado - West Arete 7/24/2010

    We eventually dropped off the ridge onto snow on the north side to make our way to the col. The cairn was a verification we were at the right one. We descended south and then traversed under the south slopes of the Triad. The trick is to stay on top of the ridge following the path but then drop down to the snow on the north side between two small bumps at 6640' and traverse under ridge line of the 6840' feature to the col - perhaps 1/3 of a mile. We stayed on the ridge itself too long and did more up and down than we needed to before switching to snow. We fixed that on our return and did more snow traversing before ascending back to the ridge. Once back on the ridge we put away axes until we descended the snow slopes from Sibley Creek Pass.
  9. [TR] Eldorado - West Arete 7/24/2010

    I guess so. It never occurred to me until around 6pm and we still had lots more climbing to do. Then it was, "hmm, I guess I'm not still 45 anymore..." Especially since this was basically my first outing this year. Chris skied Baker and Rainier this spring with his family (wife, 14 yo and 12 yo) so he was his normal rocking self. He kindly waited for me even more than usual.
  10. Trip: Eldorado - West Arete Date: 7/24/2010 Trip Report: Chris and I have been climbing together since the early 1980s in the Gunks and later in the Cascades after both of moved to Seattle at different times. We used to do lots of trips in lots of places (Canada, Wyoming, Washington) but after we both had kids (he has two and I have three) and life gets busier it was harder to get out. But we have managed an annual mountaineering trip for the last 10 years or so and did some nice routes. One route we've talked about doing over the years was the West Arete of Eldorado. When we were doing lots of climbing I think both of us weren't that psyched to do the route (only 5.7 after all). But after doing it Sunday 7/25 we both have a lot more respect for the route and those that do it. We approached via Hidden Lakes Peak trail head and the Triad traverse. We used Nelson, Beckey and a TR from SummitPost as our beta on the approach and route. The trailhead was full of cars on Sat. as we headed out in the blazing sun. The shade of the woods was welcome but then we broke out into the avalanche gully and hit the humidity of the brush that made it feel really hot. We left the trail as per Nelson and hiked up snow slopes to Sibley Creek Pass. There we headed north up the climber's trail and climbed onto the ridge for some really enjoyable ridge walking that felt like Sound of Music. We followed the ridge keeping an eye out for the correct col to descend. Both Nelson and Beckey were very adamant about finding the easternmost gully. We poke around at various spots trying to decide which was the right one and finally the correct was obvious with a small cairn. It was a mix of loose 3rd class and snow as we dropped down a few hundred feet. We continued traversing around and eventually went up at the end of the ridge. We followed it to the top of the ridge and then wound our way down into the terrain below the Triad. We negotiated another ridge and then made our way toward Triad Col. We were on snow about 80% of the time during the traverse. We found a great flat rock that made a wonderful camp spot at 6120' maybe 1/2 mile south of Triad Col. Sibley Creek Pass looking towards the Triad and our traverse Looking back towards Sibley Creek pass and two other climbers on the traverse West Arete of Eldorado is the second ridge that reaches to the top. The gendarme towers are visible on the lower 1/3 The snow route is visible as a tiny narrow snow arrow 2/3 up pointing to 8 o'clock Moon rise over Cascade Pass We headed out Sunday morning at 5:15 hoping to make good time on the route. We ended up roping up for the col as the spot we selected to cross had a few 5th class moves. There are probably easier routes. The snow reached the col on the other side so getting onto the Triad Glacier was trivial. The glacier is starting to shed snow and crevasses are showing but Chris was masterful as usual selecting the correct line. We were at the base of the West Arete around 8:15am. Triad Glacier Nelson and the SummitPost beta talk of climbing the SW (or closest) of the two toes of the Arete. Nelson's picture shows the route on the other toe. We did the north side of the SW toe which we 4th classed up a pitch before bringing out the rope. Chris led up and we slowly progressed up the Arete. There's about 2800' of vertical to get to the summit and this was rated grade III by Nelson and IV by Beckey. However, the SummitPost TR bivied at 7800' and others in CC.com have bivied as well. So we kept expecting to be able to start simul-climbing but we never did. The rock was adequate in general but there's loose stuff around so had to climb thoughtfully. Low down on the ridge The first gendarme looms above We continued to make slow progress as the day wore on. The gendarmes were still far above but the climbing we did was often mid-5th with flatter sections mixed in that one could make quicker progress. We swung pitches for awhile and then switched to having Chris do the leads for expediency. The sun hit us and we peeled our fleece and rationed our water as the temps climbed. It was 90 in Seattle and damn hot for us on the ridge. Multiple times Chris headed off one direction only to come down and try a different tack. Perhaps there were easier sections that we missed so we ended up doing a lot more 5th class climbing that others. Closing in on the first gendarme The signature chimney photo Around 2pm we hit the famous chimney pitch that everyone, including us, takes a photo. Finally we know where we are! Thoughts of a unplanned bivy kept creeping in my mind but we kept moving. We found snow on a ledge and filled our water bottles with it and temporarily quenched our thirst. More climbing up the second gendarme and the two steps above. The rock is solid here and the climbing fun but I was very concerned about the time, our pace and the amount of climbing remaining. I kept expecting the difficulty to suddenly drop off and we'd be off to the races but it remained stiff enough that we continued to pitch it out. Finally we reached the end of a rock ridge and needed to drop onto a snow field. We left a sling as the rock overhung the steep snow. We remained roped as we moved up along the snow to rock again. Finally the steepness began to relent as the sun dropped below the horizon. Chris leading the second step Looking down as we start on snow Looking back at our route on the snow I switched out of sun glasses and felt like I bought an extra 30 minutes of daylight. We did another pitch or two more before finally feeling like we hit the last 500' of fourth class climbing. I was tired, thirsty and had been on the go for 16 hours. So I really focused and tried to climb very deliberately so as not to blow it right below the summit. We scrambled over big blocks and narrow towers as darkness fell and the holds became harder to discern. Then finally we hit the snow summit at around 10pm and I knew we were going to sleep in our tent that night. There had been lots of traffic on the East Ridge and the old steps were icy. The full moon negated a need for head lamps as we each made our way down the ridge and onto flatter terrain. Being on a glacier we re-roped and headed back around Eldorado to our camp. We pulled in around 11:40pm. We celebrated with some Highland Park single malt and a quick dinner to drop to a dead sleep at 1am. The sun baked us out of our tent by 6:30 and we slowly packed up, had breakfast and retraced our steps back to the now empty trail head. I drank a lot of liquids for the next two days. Overall an awesome if long trip. I'm glad I did it and I'd recommend it. We still don't understand if we needed to be climbing at a much higher level so that the mid-5th is either soloed or simul-climbed so as to be rated grade III or IV.
  11. Sale pending. Waiting for a check Time to accept that I won't be doing any aid climbing in the foreseeable future. I'm also letting go of some excess pro that I've been holding on in case I needed it. This stuff is vintage from the 1980s and early 1990s. Some of the aid nuts have never been placed; some have been well used but still useful. Most of the pitons were bought used. The other nuts and forged friend are fine but are excess that I've replaced with other gear I prefer and I don't see a situation where I'd need them. Please send me a pm with what gear you are interested in. The prices listed are 75% off or more the equivalent new. Everything here comes to ~$160. $125 for everything on the page. I'm in Ravenna in Seattle. If you want me to ship it you'll have to cover the shipping. Checks will work but I'll wait for them to clear the bank first. Pitons 2 Angles $4 each 3 Short Angles $2.50 each 2 Short Lost Arrows $4 each 1 museum short LA equivalent $2 2 Bugaboos (short one might actually be a Knifeblade) $3 each 5 Lost Arrows $4 each 1 museum medium LA equivalent $2 Bong $5 (never placed) Rock hammer $20 Thin gear Brass RPs 0, 1, 2, 5 $3 each Brass HB Offset 2, 3 $4 each Chouinard stoppers 1, 3 $3 each Copper Bashee X 3 $3 each Wire swage X 1 $1 Hooks X 2 $3 each Wired Nuts These are all older straight sides style Chouinard wired hexes 1, 2, 2, 2, 3 $2 each Chouinard stopper 8 $2 Slung Nuts Chouinard slung hexes 3, 5, 7 $2 each Chouinard slung straight sided stopper 7, 8 $2 each Chouinard slung curved stopper 11 $2 Wild Country Rock 6 $3 Forest Teton 6 Free to a loving home 1/4" Hand Bolt Kit 5 1/4" Rawl button bolts $5 for all Rawl #14 Hand drill $10 #1 Forged Friend $10
  12. I have a 18 year old North Face VE-25 that needs its front screen door repaired in a major way. I’ve done numerous home repairs on small rips on this tent but my 4 year old ripped a good chunk of it away from the zipper. So I’m looking for recommendations of places that would do a good and reasonably priced repair on this. I used to go to Rainy Pass in Seattle but my last repair there about 8 years ago left me dissatisfied with the repair quality and the price. So I’m open to other options. Thanks Richard
  13. Backpacking with Kids

    Keep your expectations really low. Bring lots of sugar to throw at any problem. Go with many other families with kids. We've found the more kids the easier it is. They don't complain about their feet or how tired they are when they are racing to keep up with the rest of the gang. +1 on water or other attractive things to do/see on the hike.
  14. Death on Klawatti Peak

    Very sad story in the Seattle Times... http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/localnews/2008085421_climbers01m0.html
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