KaskadskyjKozak Posted September 6, 2010 Posted September 6, 2010 Trip: Le Petit Chaval - Spontaneity Arête Date: 9/5/2010 Trip Report: After our climb of Kangaroo Temple, Gaucho Argentino and I camped at Lone Fir and considered options for the next day's climb. We were worried about the forecast of snow showers and if that would work with our initial plan to climb SEWS via the SW rib. In the morning the weather looked OK from camp, so we decided to give it a go and climb. En route on the way out we twisted our friend DC's arm to come with. His climbing partner was leaving that morning and he would be going home otherwise. When we got to below the hairpin we noticed fresh snow high on the Liberty Bell Group, and pulled over. Backup plan needed. We opted for Spontaneity Arête - it appeared to be dry and there were less clouds floating that way. View of Liberty Bell Group in the morning: We downclimbed from the road, crossed the stream, and began ascending. The climber's trail was mostly easy to follow. The only exception was where the trail hits a rock wall and appears to go left only to peter out. In actuality you need to scramble up this wall for 20 feet or so. When we got to the top of the second fixed rope over slabs we noticed snowflakes were falling. Well, not snowflakes, but little ice balls, not quite hail, but close. This, coupled with the cold, damped our spirits. We had all frozen our butts off the previous day with cold temps and no precipitation. We discussed bailing. Maybe Mazama would be better? What about Goat Wall/Prime Rib? I suggested we climb to the base of the route so I could at least see what it looked like (I had never been there, but DC had). We went up. OK, time to bail, right? Gaucho Argentino wanted to climb. DC and I wanted to climb... but for it to be fun. This did not seem like fun. And we'd probably bail anyways if the weather got worse. Somebody took their pack off and pulled out a harness. That action was contagious. Soon Gaucho was leading up pitch one. DC followed with pitch 2. DC is happy with our decision as Gaucho starts up pitch one: Then we hit scrambling terrain with some class 4 mixed in. Because we had 3 people and 2 ropes we seemed aversed to packing a rope and just wanted to keep running the crap out on belay. We probably burned some time unnecessarily here. Pitching out some class 4: Now we were at the part of the ridge that got steeper. Gaucho was gung-ho, so we let him block lead the next three or four pitches. The clouds and snow came and went and came and went again. And again. We were alternately encouraged with wonderful sun and beaten to submission with biting cold winds and snow flurries. We all wore a skull-cap under our helmets, a mid layer and shell jacket. Gloves came on for each belay. There was some shivering involved. Sometimes our views were like this: Gaucho leads a finger crack in a corner: Finally we were at the summit, or so Gaucho said. It wasn't. I then scrambled up some class 4 unroped... and saw more climbing. I brought the others up. Gaucho went up 40 feet more. He said there was more scrambling and then "one last pitch". We weren't sure if we believe him now... In any case, we had left the guide book at the base of the route, and it was getting late - about 4:15. Since I have exceeded my quota of epics and night descents this year, I insisted we descend. We had already done more than we thought we were for the day and weather! Gaucho leads the penultimate pitch which we completed: We did around 4 rappels, the final leading into the gully at about the spot where the arete gets steep. We downclimbed the gully about 500 feet and found the trail out. The latter went quickly and unevenfully. We were back at the cars at 7:30 with light beginning to go. Descending the shitty gully: Descending the short rock wall below the first fixed rope: Gear Notes: Warm cap, mid layer, outer shell, gloves. Quote
t_rutl Posted September 7, 2010 Posted September 7, 2010 light beginning to go at 7:30? fawk...that time already... nice job out man! was on the list but will see... Quote
Alex Posted September 7, 2010 Posted September 7, 2010 Hey Kozak, I was at Lone Fir too with kids in tow that weekend, sorry I didn't recognize you guys or I would have introduced myself... Alex Quote
Gaucho Argentino Posted September 7, 2010 Posted September 7, 2010 KK... Thanks to you and DC for another great climbing w/e, Buddy !! So bad I could not trick you guys the second time with the "it's the summit" thing, it worked the first time to keep going ;-), so bad you had your "quota" of night descents full, it would have been cool to descend the gully at night with rain/snow... well, may be not... If I ever figure out how to post pictures, I'll post some more :-) --Gaucho A. Quote
KaskadskyjKozak Posted September 7, 2010 Author Posted September 7, 2010 Hey Kozak, I was at Lone Fir too with kids in tow that weekend, sorry I didn't recognize you guys or I would have introduced myself... Alex Were you right across from us? Quote
Loper Posted September 8, 2010 Posted September 8, 2010 Nice work guys! As I was driving home I saw a few drops of rain near Liberty Bell and hoped you guys found something to climb. Looks like you had a good day in the mountains! L Quote
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