[TR] Rooster Rock, columbia gorge- south side (easy) route 10/14/2005

[Kevin_Matlock]

Climb: [TR] Rooster Rock, columbia gorge-south side (easy) route

 

Date of Climb: 10/14/2005

 

Trip Report:

Fairly insignificant climb but wanted to post for those interested in finding the route. Once found it's an easy, enjoyable single pitch of exposed climbing (after the 1st pitch of class 4 boredom).

Free the first pitch (not must protection anyway) and set the belay on the 2 bolt anchor. Head up the obvious gully toward the east. Solid rock and easy pro make this quick work. I read somewhere this was a 5.4, felt even easier than that.

About the only real advice would be don't rap from the top mega rings. Rope drag is serious. Instead, roll the dice and rap off the single, rusty quicklink/chain setup hanging over the south face. Felt and looked ok, just sucks since I have no idea of how long that single chain has been up there.

 

Two fast raps gets you back down to the approach trail.

 

Edit: I was asked about the rope drag. The line up heads slanting east; the rap heads 15' or so to the west that line. I was solo so I had to clean on the descent. I could see the rope was getting snagged so I wasn't surprised that I couldn't pull it after the 1st rap. I reclimbed the line to free the rope. Once back on top I set the rope straight off the the south through the mass o' chains. Off the 2nd rap I tried to pull the rope and still no good. Fuck! Had to climb the line for the 3rd time (esentially free; getting frustrated at this point). Decided to try the single rap chain. It still had some drag but pulled through eventually.

So the moral of the story is don't get taken in by all the heavy duty chains lying at the top of the formation. But why else would they be here if not for rapping... are these clip in points the vertically impaired or somthun'? Anyway, don't use them unless you feel like contributing your rope to the booty call.

 

Gear Notes:

Pro in the 1-2" range. Single 60M is plenty.

 

Approach Notes:

Park by the second to last bathroom toward the west. Walk toward freeway. Continue walking through the pet run area and look for an obvious grassy access road on your right. Follow this road to the small stream running under the freeway. Cross over the top and aim up toward the side of the freeway; start walking next to the guardrail. After about 100 yards (?) look on your right for a trail through the black berries. Follow trail up for 5 or 10 mins to the base of the 4th class start.

If you get to a stance on the NE side of the rock with a snag covered in slings you are on the wrong route. I believe this is a 5.6; don't have any info on it though.

Go back down the trail and veer south and west to the south side of the formation.

Edited October 17, 2005 by Kevin_Matlock

[ClimbingCowboy]

Great Post! I would never would do or did this one with say, Ivan, but only as an intro to climbing with females who are leaning more towards Gorge hiking, Horse Thief Butte, and the Hood River Brewery.

[The_Rooster]

Thanks for the report. This is my favorite place to hang out.