Ingalls Peak - double rope beneficial?

[armin]

Hi all,

 

I realize this might be a silly question, but I would like to know if it is a good idea to bring 60 m double ropes for the rappel of the South Ridge route in Ingalls.

 

Thank you!

Armin

[diepj]

Unless you have another beneficial use of them (like 2 followers) I probably wouldn't. It is a long hump for a short climb.

 

When I climbed we had a single 60 and were relying on the summitpost beta which describes 3 raps with a little bit of 3rd class downclimbing. We topped out at the same time as a soloist who was carrying a 50 so we teamed up and did it in 2 raps and can't confirm the SP beta.

 

FYI two 50's would leave you short. As it was we got to the bottom of the 50 and then had to let the rope run a bit through the top anchor before we could easily come off rappel.

[Bosterson]

From the summit, you make one short rap down to the P2 bolted anchor on the small ledge in the middle of the face. From there down to the big shelf at the top of P1 (second tied off rock anchor), you can make it with a single 70m with just a couple of feet to spare. We watched the party above us do it with a 60 and the guy got stranded in the middle of the face since his rope didn't reach the shelf, but he was able to swing himself skier's left over to the blocky arete, get off rap, and downclimb to the shelf without too much hassle. (He was wearing mountaineering boots, not climbing shoes, if that tells you anything.)

 

So either bring a 70 if you have one, bring 2 shorter ropes (that's a lot of unnecessary extra weight for such a short climb), or else be comfortable rapping partway down P2 and then downclimbing the last 20-30 ft unroped.

[armin]

Thank you, great advice!

 

[Jeremy.0]

It's been a while since I was up there but maybe halfway up pitch 2 on the far right there was a block that people would sling and use for a rappel anchor and even belay anchor.

Using that It can be done in a total of 4 single raps. I recall the anchor being far from textbook, so maybe it has grown out of favor