Conditions on the Coleman Glacier

[zaher]

Thinking about going up Baker via the Coleman glacier in few days ( car to car starting Friday night). Would appreciate an update on the conditions of the glacier if someone's been up there recently.

 

 

[kurthicks]

I climbed it on Saturday. The route is in good shape overall, but getting onto the glacier above the Hogsback is more difficult than normal. Traverse west from camp along the bench below the glacier for about 15 minutes before gaining the low angle ice on Heliotrope Ridge (near where people ski in the early season). Then a rising traverse back towards the standard route leads directly to the Black Buttes camp. Above here the route is largely normal and the cracks are quite manageable. The Roman Wall is a piece of cake, but does cross a small rock band near the top.

[zaher]

Thanks Kurt, much appreciated!

[vsigler]

I climbed from Black Buttes camp to the summit on Monday. A few snow bridges were not long for this world (~8000 and ~7500 ft.), but could be avoided by doing the end-around. Path is well-established. You will be on the pumice ridge for several hundred feet and then on the Roman Wall, a bobsled run takes you to the top. Do follow the advice given previously about getting onto the Coleman Glacier; stay below the glacier as you leave the hogsback camp area and traverse west. You can certainly get into the glacier right away above camp, but the traverse will set you up on a higher line that will help you avoid the lower, cracked-up glacier. Good luck.