Shuksan (Fisher Chimneys) conditions?

[jstluise]

We're looking for some route conditions for Fisher Chimneys. Anyone been up there recently? We're thinking about making a trip up there this weekend...I imagine is it pretty bare right now?

 

Any info on the Chimneys, Hell's Highway, and the gully of the summit pyramid would be appreciated.

 

We climbed it mid-August a couple years ago via the Sulphide, we we're looking forward to trying out the Chimneys. Also we had zero views last time because of weather so this weekend should be much better!

Edited July 15, 2015 by jstluise

[kinkbmxco]

Was up there on July 4, so this is going to be a little dated.

 

Lake Ann - Perfect for swimming! A very welcoming lake in the heat especially on the way down.

 

Chimney's - Totally bare. Followed beta similar to this for route finding up the chimney's: http://www.onthesharpend.com/2009/10/30/mt-shuksan-fisher-chimneys/. I accidentally took us climbers right up the last gully instead of left so we had to downclimb a bit. Other than that, I think the chimneys were pretty straightforward.

 

Hell's Highway - Not much to say about this, Winnies Slide was steeper, conditions were good when we went up. Picture of us heading up Hells Highway

 

Gully of the Summit Pyramid - We ended up taking the 5.4 variation which turned out to be a clusterfuck (Because everyone else thought this was a good idea too). Seemed like there was A LOT of loose rock in the main gully which we ended using to descend. Did a combination of downclimbing and rappelling.

 

We camped right before Winnies slide. There was a spot ~3 tents.

Left camp around 5:00 AM I think. In retrospect would have preferred to leave slightly earlier to beat the crowds.

Camp:

 

This is right after Winnies Slide. The crevasses were easy to navigate though I remember making a comment that it could get tricky in a few weeks.

 

 

On Summit day we ended up descending down to Lake Ann which was a good decision because getting down the chimneys took longer than we thought. (down climbed most of it with a few raps)

 

A few more pictures on my Flickr site:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/34779536@N04/

 

Edited July 16, 2015 by kinkbmxco

[jstluise]

Great! Thanks! Even though it was a couple weeks ago it at least give me a gauge for what the conditions are. Sounds like it should be pretty good...we'll see how those crevasses look. Good to know the gully is snow free, I heard it can get hairy when there is still snow left over. Last time we were up there the gully was bare and the ascent/descent was not bad at all (besides the obvious loose rock).

 

We'll be heading up to camp at Winnies Slide on Friday, so maybe we'll beat the crowds. Last time up Shuksan we did it all in one day, so it will be nice to take our time and enjoy the views this go around.

 

On Summit day we ended up descending down to Lake Ann which was a good decision because getting down the chimneys took longer than we thought.

I didn't follow you here...can you explain? Did you take a different route down?

 

Excellent pictures, btw! I'm excited to actually use my camera on this trip...last time we were in the clouds all day.

[kinkbmxco]

Ah, We did it in a more relaxed three day trip.

 

Day 1- Get permits, stop at Lake Ann for a swim, head up the chimneys and set up camp below winnies slide.

 

Day 2- Summit, break camp, descend the chimneys, set up lower camp at Lake Ann.

 

Day 3- Hike out

 

 

Have fun!

 

 

[jstluise]

Thanks, makes sense now. Forgot to ask...is there any running water above the chimneys?

[DPS]

Thanks, makes sense now. Forgot to ask...is there any running water above the chimneys?

Every time I have been there, there is reliable running water coming off the Upper Curtis glacier right next to the wonderful bivi sites above Winnie's Slide.