[TR] Unicorn Peak - Standard 6/7/2015

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Trip: Unicorn Peak - Standard

 

Date: 6/7/2015

 

Trip Report:

 

I only had Sunday to get out and play this weekend, and opted to head up Unicorn. I've only climbed Lane Peak in the Tatoosh, so this was a welcome climb to do, and a good break from Bulgers.

 

We started up at about 8:45 and it was warm already. We timed the temps well for snow conditions though - with little give on the already-sun-soaked snow above the first gully. On the descent in the early after noon, we had perfect plunge-stepping.

 

We chose a 5th class variation on the summit block (led in boots). Felt mid-fifth, with about three moves. Definitely a fun way to finish.

 

As for conditions - it looks like mid-to-late July up at Rainier now, not early June.

 

The objective as viewed from alpine meadows near Bench Lake:

 

First gully completely melted out:

 

Upper snowfield melting fast:

 

Traversing the ridge to the base of the summit block:

 

Summit pano-p0rn:

 

 

Rapelling from the dead tree stump that must eventually fail to remain viable:

 

Descending from the ridge:

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Ice axe, small rack (nuts, 2-3 cams, 4-5 slings).

 

Approach Notes:

Hot. Buggy in the green areas and around the lake, but not horrible (yet). Snow free until the top of the first gully, then snow to the col.

[R. Ding]

Wow, crazy how different it looks!