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[TR] Unicorn Peak - Standard 6/7/2015

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Trip: Unicorn Peak - Standard


Date: 6/7/2015


Trip Report:


I only had Sunday to get out and play this weekend, and opted to head up Unicorn. I've only climbed Lane Peak in the Tatoosh, so this was a welcome climb to do, and a good break from Bulgers.


We started up at about 8:45 and it was warm already. We timed the temps well for snow conditions though - with little give on the already-sun-soaked snow above the first gully. On the descent in the early after noon, we had perfect plunge-stepping.


We chose a 5th class variation on the summit block (led in boots). Felt mid-fifth, with about three moves. Definitely a fun way to finish.


As for conditions - it looks like mid-to-late July up at Rainier now, not early June.


The objective as viewed from alpine meadows near Bench Lake:



First gully completely melted out:



Upper snowfield melting fast:



Traversing the ridge to the base of the summit block:



Summit pano-p0rn:




Rapelling from the dead tree stump that must eventually fail to remain viable:



Descending from the ridge:





Gear Notes:

Ice axe, small rack (nuts, 2-3 cams, 4-5 slings).


Approach Notes:

Hot. Buggy in the green areas and around the lake, but not horrible (yet). Snow free until the top of the first gully, then snow to the col.

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