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[TR] Prusik Peak - West Ridge 5.8 OW finish 5/16/2015

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Trip: Prusik Peak - West Ridge 5.8 OW finish


Date: 5/16/2015


Trip Report:

Prusik Peak West Ridge 5.8 OW finish.


Long approach. Great scenery. Decent Climbing.


Bruce and I left snow creek TH at 6:00. 3-4 ticks collected. 6 hrs to Lake Viv with overnight gear. snow about halfway between snow lake and lake Viv. Went up to South Face route starts to check em out for Sunday. This took more time due to scrambling talus and boulders. A rising traverse on snow to Prusik Pass would be faster than the rock scramble. Once on route pitches were shorter than desired due to rope drag. Snow on ledges but not a problem. For final pitch we did 5.8 OW which had water, snow, and ice in the first part of crack. Not a show stopper but added some spice. Raps were funky, I think some stations may have been covered in snow. Summit bolt is about 15' east of OW finish and is backed up with tat. Partial rap off summit bolt down North side then full rap on single 60m passing a station at ~10m. Traverse back climbers right (West) on short but steep snow section back to the au cheval section before the friction pitch. Two full raps down North side using existing stations, made a 3rd station, then steep snow traverse right for 100m to get back to the 3rd class scramble to the balanced rock. Much quicker return to camp. weather on Sunday was low clouds and misty so we packed up and headed home. A long hike, beautiful scenery, and fun climbing on good rock. Unfortunately the mountain goats did not make an appearance.



Prusik - just before sunset. First pic In the TR but one of the last pics we took after finishing the route and retuning to camp at Lake Viv.




Starting the route. low 5th Class




The ridge before the friction pitch




The friction pitch. Clip the manky old pin if you want. Just hope you don't need it. Not too difficult about 2 body lengths of 5.7 friction





Lake Vivianne from the summit




Gear Notes:

Single rack to #3. You could get by w/o the #3 esp for the standard route. OW has narrows to .75 just before the crux bulge. Single 60m rope.


Approach Notes:

Snow creek trail, long hike 10 mi to Lake Vivianne. On snow from about halfway between upper snow lake and lake Vivianne. Brought crampons and axe, left em at the lake. Did not need em.

Edited by Jcweinsx

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I know I'm just a shitty climber, but that friction pitch (or even just pictures of it) gives me sweaty palms. Have led it twice... scared both times. Strong work finishing up the OW!


I don't recall a bolt at the summit. There is a more straightforward descent route down the north face. I've only ever done double rope raps, but I think there are stations set up for single raps too. Either right at the top of the 5.8 OW, or just further climbers left of the top out is where I've started raps previously...straight down, not along the route..


not that this shows it well... but notes were made when the route/descent were fresher in my mind...

Edited by alpine et

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Yes, the standard descent is 4 single rope or 2 double raps straight down the north face from the summit. The anchors can be kind of tricky to find when there is snow, it helps to have done it before when it was dry.

I get the impression that the other rap stations along the west ridge route exist more for people who have done the face routes (Solid Gold, et al) but don't want to continue up the ridge to the summit.

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I'll do an edit to clarify the raps. We went down north side for 1.75 raps, then traversed west, then rapped 3x down northside. It wasn't too bad. Our first time on Prusik so definitely think it would be no problem for those familiar with the route. There were several tat stations that we saw while climbing up west ridge, before the ridge/friction pitch.


The friction pitch was definitely interesting. I'd like to find something similar but longer to see how I handle it.

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Did the route on the 23rd, snow has melted off of the actual route fully now. Finished via the 5.6 lieback to chimney. Got my 50cm axe on the pack jammed in the chimney, interesting indian squat double knee bar to get it free, don't be an idiot like me.


Did single rope raps down the north on existing tat, it's probably better to head west and use the other stations part way down as described in this TR. We got the rope soaking wet going through snow sections and then traversed 40-45 degree isothermal mush back to the balanced rock. That was sub optimal.


If you want friction pitches go to Darrington. Lead a 5.9 there and that little 5.7 won't even make you bat an eye!

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Erik - that photo was perfect, I used it for planning the climb and on the route. Paired your pic with the CAG topo that shows which side of the ridge to be on at the 2 horns and it went well. Thanks for sharing the photo.

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