[TR] Darrington - Slab Daddy 5/4/2015

[ddday]

Trip: Darrington - Slab Daddy

 

Date: 5/4/2015

 

Trip Report:

My buddy Einar and I left Seattle at 5:30am for a rather unprecedented early attempt on Slab Daddy up the Squire Creek Drainage. We arrived at the trailhead at around 7:00am with temps in the Mid-30's. At the second washout we looked up to a fantastic view of the route.

The trail to the creek is in good shape, and crossing was...bracing. Thankfully Einar brought some river shoes as I was rather unprepared. The creek was only 18" deep so no worries there. We arrived at the base about 80 minutes from the trailhead. To our pleasant surprise there wasn't a drop of snow at the base or on the route. So in the spirit of getting in the full monty we decided to try the first three pitches. The first bolt is in the runoff but you can traverse in from slightly higher to gain the 2nd bolt in dry territory. Unfortunately it and the 2nd bolt have no hanger. Even after trying to secure a nut to the post we decided to back off. From the start you can go up and right to a flat area. From there do some low 5th class scrambling, then up and through trees onto another slab for some sketchy unprotected moves, then back into schwack territory for 150' which brings you to the base of the 4th pitch. We didn't cut left until we hit the wall. The route was dry with the exception of the first real 'slap and pray' pitch 6 which had some nice running water which made the moves on dry ground very thoughtful.

 

Heading Up Pitch 12

Looking Down Pitch 13

The End is near...

 

We arrived at the top at 6:09 pm and were back to the base of the route, packed up and starting down at 10pm. A bit slow but we were being pretty conservative on linking rapels since a stuck rope would make for a long night. We descended the first 3 pitches in the dark so while most of them looked dry I can't say for sure it's safe or if other hangers are missing. Temps in darrington were 72, we had perfect sun and a nice breeze all day.

 

this is truly a classic route.

Dan

 

Gear Notes:

We took a rack of singles up to #2, and 1 #4, 14 draws. That was more than sufficient for all the pitches except pitch 21 but by that time you get a little accustomed to mind rattling runouts. We only linked pitch 11&12, simul climbed 8&9. I found pitch 21 slightly confusing - be sure to push out left to the obvious shallow right facing dihedral, there's an early left facing dihedral option I started up and had to back down.

 

You can be a saint and bring 3-4 3/8" hangers and nuts to restore the route to it's original glory.

 

Approach Notes:

After the 2nd washout the trail to Squire Creek is about 150 yds ahead, and is very obvious. Follow it to the Creek and look upstream for the big Bonzi Rock, cross here, go up and through the ferns looking for the trail into the forest on the left in about 300'. The trail through the trees is in good shape, but could use some maintenance by us all by tossing out dead sticks etc. It's longer than I expected but takes you right to the base of the route proper. Don't DIY this approach or you will regret it.

 

Edited May 7, 2015 by ddday

[Otto]

Thanks for the good report, so glad you enjoyed the route! The nuts do seem to loosen up over the winter; I always bring a wrench but it looks like a few nuts, washers and hangers are next.

 

Did you free the Exit Groove (pitch 20)?

 

Regards,

Bill

[NDrake]

Nice TR! I was over on Three O'Clock on Monday also, was the wind not too bad for you guys? We could barely holler up a 50 meter pitch.

[ddday]

Re: the exit groove - I wish. I gave it the college try but it wasn't in the cards.

Re: wind - it was perfect actually, though yes at times it was a bit hard to hear each other. It got a chilly at about pitch 19 as the sun was turning the corner and casting us into shade but all in all no complaints about the weather. Glad you found some slabbish fun as well.

 

In hindsight we should have poked around the base of the route a bit as we may have found the hangers from bolt #2.

 

Dan