Riley81 Posted April 6, 2015 Posted April 6, 2015 Trip: Dragontail Peak - Gerber-Sink Date: 4/4/2015 Trip Report: Ryan Hoover and I climbed the Gerber-Sink route by the most obvious path; Straight up the white streak and left at the fin. It was a very direct and enjoyable route. We started from the trailhead at 2:45 AM and started climbing at 6:45 AM. Hit the summit at 10:30 AM after climbing the route in two long simul blocks. After a nice break on a windless summit we headed down Asgard back to our wonderful shoes at the lake and were back at the car at 3:45 PM for a nice 13 hour round trip. Conditions were amazing and the mixed pitches just below the fin were adequately protected. Just save a #2 or #3 camalot for the crux in the second section of mixed climbing. Getting ready for the sunrise start. Ryan heading up the start of the route on nice ice and snice. Cruising the huge simul block that took us up about 1600-1800 feet of the face. So many good sections of ice chimneys. More Ice Chimneys! Can you say more ice chimneys. Ice chimneys! Ice chimney close-up. This was the first belay after we ran out of gear. It was at the bottom of the snow field below the fin. Cruising the second block below the fin. From here you keep going up through the gully that funnels you up and left to the third couloir on the TC route. The first of the two more difficult mixed sections. Getting er' done! Looking down at Colchuck lake from between the two mixed sections. Working the crux mixed section. We guessed it was about M4ish. Good gear is to be had in a hand crack on the right face. Which also provided good hand jams to compensate for the super thin neve on the slab. Stoked to be at the end of the third couloir! Relaxing and hydrating on the summit. We took advantage of the windless conditions and hung out for a half hour or so. Summit Pano. Mt. Stuart with its North Ridge standing proud. Witches Tower Conditions are great right now! Go up and get on this thing! Gear Notes: Single rack to 3", set of nuts, few KB's, 6 ice screws. Approach Notes: Road is open to bridge before trailhead. Approach shoes worked to the lake. Quote
Tom_Sjolseth Posted April 6, 2015 Posted April 6, 2015 That face is about as in as it gets! Thanks for the stoke, and good on you guys for getting after it this season. Quote
TofuTodd Posted April 8, 2015 Posted April 8, 2015 Thanks for the TR! How is the pro in the top of the 3rd couloir? I've done backbone ridge in the summer and after doing the fin, it looks like it shares the top out of the same horrid couloir of unprotectable choss and decomposing rock that was one of the sketchiest parts of that climb. I guess with snow and ice it will be held together, but I know the rock gear is worthless in that section. Quote
Riley81 Posted April 8, 2015 Author Posted April 8, 2015 The third couloir is much better with snow in it. There isn't much gear, But it the lowest angle of the three couloirs, so it is pretty tame. I found a couple small cam placements along the climbers right side. Quote
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