Water Posted February 1, 2015 Posted February 1, 2015 (edited) Trip: Mt. Hood - Pearly Gates right chute Date: 1/31/2015 Trip Report: Hadn't topped out since I hurt my foot in late 2013, though I had been to the Hogsback a handful of times in the last month+ Felt good to finally get up. Pearly Gates climbers right 'gate' was quite easy. One team retreating from the left gate said they didn't go for the right one due to ice fall. My usual mountain modus operandi tends to be in my head, conservative, and retreat instead of advance if in doubt. However above the berg I kept assessing the ice I saw falling and none of it had velocity really right at the narrows of the chutes. It was only after that when it picked up speed. I only saw small pieces (softball max). I just had a very strong gut feeling about what I saw so followed that intuition. There was perhaps a 5-10ft section at 45ish degrees which was tiered with old steps, and not overly icy. venom picks went in all the way to the head in consolidated snow, and I had not a worry about my alu crampons. One or two higher foot steps and I was through. When I first moved into it I did get about a 30 second deluge of spindrift..but more like icepowder as it has not snowed in ages..and bits the size of marbles. filled every opening on me--I was emptying snow from my pockets 45 minutes later at the Hogsback. But other than that, after about 10ft it opened up, ice risk when to zero. There was a bit of a clear-water ice crust, very thin, above supportive snow. again full confidence with alu pons. descended the old chute as fast as I could. A lot of ice fall seemed to be climber caused, and the chute had a fair number of folks on it. I don't intend to criticise but if someone needs two technical tools with umbilicals to climb the old chute maybe they should re-assess their objectives. My little 2cent soap box, too many people spending way too long exposing themselves to ice roulette under sun-laden rime towers. Spend more time getting comfortable on steeper snow with less objective danger above. Especially when traversing from the bergschrund over to the old chute. was putting on skis when saw the two roped folks fall. When I saw them get air and I about lost my lunch. I had just passed PMR not 10 minutes earlier. It was fortunate they were just hanging at the hogs and to the fallen within a minute. Wishing good healing to them. ski down at 10:45-11:15 was icy and chattery but functional enough. Had a deadline below otherwise would have helped out up top/things would have softened into afternoon. sorry no pics of the gates. Cooper spur looked good. Morning: Hogsback (and PG right) Amigos going for the PG left..retreated Cooper Spur Looking good Summit Beer Photo Ice conditions on upper 200ft of Mnt. Skiski Gear Notes: alu crampons. 2 venoms. whippet and venom. or even standard axe probably would have been enough. Approach Notes: skis Edited February 1, 2015 by Water Quote
astrov Posted February 1, 2015 Posted February 1, 2015 Solid work Water! Are your photos on Google Drive? Quote
Water Posted February 1, 2015 Author Posted February 1, 2015 thanks bud! you too. They will be up soon. Quote
Ptown_Climber1 Posted February 2, 2015 Posted February 2, 2015 Awesome! Enjoyed seeing that. Had intended to go for Wy East Thurs night, but alas, work prevented it, so will live vicariously through some of these reports for now. Quote
Bosterson Posted February 2, 2015 Posted February 2, 2015 As the photo'd "amigo" going for the PG left, we got to right above the shadow line at the base of the slot. Scoping the icy step above from a chest-high impediment, with all the shit periodically falling down the slot (nothing too huge, but glad to be wearing a helmet; a party ahead who turned back said a microwave-sized block had almost nailed them), we decided to retreat. Others went up before us and probably after, but the mountain isn't going anywhere so I was content to play it safe. Downclimb to the top of the Hogsback was annoying, snow was softening up speedily in the sun. Last time I agree to a late start with skiers! Here's Water after he crossed to the right side of the gully, about to head up PG right. Heading up from the Hogsback: Pearly Gates: Quote
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