Frenches Dome Rebolt - Fall 2014

[MrGecko]

FYI

 

Frenches Dome over near Mt Hood just had a major rebolting effort. Tons of crap came off and new goods installed. Here is a repost from the rebolting team leader Micah Klesick:

 

Went out to French's Dome yesterday and replaced bolts. Thanks so much to Matt and Katy Hoechlin, Scott Robertson (Head of Nike's Climbing Program), Rob Holzman and Jess Holzman, Sam Horack, and Erik Matthew Jenson. They all came out and together we replaced about 25 bolts, effectively finishing the re-bolting of French's Dome for the next few years at least.

 

Several bolts pulled out by hand, and many more snapped with only a 1/4 turn of the frozen washer. Kind of scary.

 

Here is a list of what we replaced:

Replaced starting bolt to Tin Tangle/OZ

Replaced 5 out of 8 bolts on Alpha and the anchor. Added Rap Rings

Replaced 7 bolts on Static Cling, and removed 5 extra bolts and an old piton

Replaced two bolts on Giant's Staircase, and removed an extra bolt, and fixed a badly positioned hanger.

Replaced two bolts on Yellow Brick Road (left the old bolts for history's sake)

Replaced Rap anchor on the front - added rap rings

Replaced anchor to Dirty Deeds (AKA Silverstreak) - removed three old anchor bolts and added rap rings

Replaced anchor to Crankenstien - removed three old anchor bolts - added rap rings

Replaced anchor to Pump-o-Rama - removed two newer anchor bolts (but very poorly done and unsafe) - Added rap rings.

 

NOW READ THIS IF YOU HAVEN'T ALREADY:

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1130235/Aging_Bolts_and_Other_Scary_Ta#Post1130235

 

 

 

 

[pcg]

Thank you!

[Drederek]

So what kind of bolts did you choose to rebolt with and do you think they will last 50 years?

[mksportn]

Drederek - We used SS 1/2" 5-piece bolts, so yes, they will last much longer than any of us will be climbing. And unlike wedges they are removable when the inevitable happens in 100 years or so.

[mksportn]

Adding to the first post, we also replaced all the bolts on Tin Tangle, and replaced the sketchy top anchor for all the routes going to the top of the dome.

[Alex]

thanks for your service.