Rooster Rock (OR) route?

[TimB]

Has anyone ever climbed Rooster Rock in Oregon's side of the Columbia Gorge? I'm looking for info on the route up. I know it's a double rope rappel to get off it, but what's the climbing like? Trad or bolted? Thanks.

Tim

 

[Don_Gonthier]

Its been a while since I did it last (2 years) but it probably hasn't changed much. There are several routes but, the only one that appears to be done often is the South Face. It is usually done in 2 pitches, the first 3rd or 4th class and the second 5.5 or 6. A moderate rack will work fine, nuts, a few hexes up to a couple of inches. Cams of some tipe would be nice but probably aren't needed.

Park your car off the side of I-84 west at the start of the gaurd rail. and walk west to the west side of the rock. If you park closer to the rock on the west bound side of 84 you may get towed, this has happen twice that I know of. Parking at the gate for the road to the base of Crown Point is an option but requires that you cross 84 which could be far more dangerous than any climbing.

From the freeway drop down to the meadows on the southwest side of the rock and head toward the saddle on the east side. Once through the meadow fallow a steep trail to the notch, this trail can be nasty if wet. as you near the saddle follow a trail back to the west beneath the south face. The trail ends at a large tree and the start of the route.

Climb a small buttress or rib west of the tree straight up to a ledge system about 70 or 80 feet. The west end of this ledge should have a small horn that can be straddled for a belay with nuts in small cracks behind to back it up. The second pitch steps east a few feet along the ledge then goes up to a shallow corner. This corner is pretty obvious from the freeway on the approach. follow the corner 60 or 70 feet till it almost ends then step out right and up to reach the east ridge which is followed to the summit. The entire ptch is about 120 to 130 foot long.

On the summit you will find an anchor set in cement with a long chain. Two 50 meter ropes threaded though the end of the chain will allow you to get down in one rap with a few feet to spare. I have heard that someone has placed bolts on the ledge at the top of the first pitch which would allow for 2 single rope raps but I don't know this for a fact.

It would be wise to wear helmuts on this or any route in the Gorge. While the rock is basalt like Vantage or Beacon it is not in colums. It resembles closly fitted bricks without morter, if a crack is large it is probably not solid. Test holds before using them and try to place your belayer out of the fall line if possible.

While you are on top check out Crown Point across the freeway. There are about 6 or 7 routes on this beauty but again only one gets any traffic. Thats the big chimmeny on the right side off the face and leads to a minor summit called the Alpenjager. Its about 4 pitches of 5.6 and sees about a hundreth of the traffic of Roster (about 1 party every 2 or 3 years). About 3 miles east of Roster is the Pillars of Hercules. About 5.6 starting on the SE in a crack the route winds around to the north side to summit in one pitch. From a cable wrapped around the summit rap the south side with 2 ropes.

Hope this helps. Don.

[Peter_Puget]

Don - I want you to answers all my questions. Great response. I have always wanted to climb this guy - I am printing off your comments in case I ever do!

[TimB]

Thanks for the detailed response! I'm hoping to get out there this weekend. I've seen people climbing near Crown Point and wondered what the routes were like there. I'll have to try that, too, another day.

Tim

[texplorer]

TimB,

How did the Rooster treat you? I was on beacon rock over the weekend and it was a great weekend in the gorge. Did my first solo of the SE corner. yahoo!!!