eldiente Posted September 26, 2014 Share Posted September 26, 2014 Trip: Colchuck Balanced Rock - The Scoop 5.11C Date: 9/25/2014 Trip Report: Always fun up there... Everyone gets excited for CBR, do people know there's this place called Squamish where you can climb way better/bigger routes 5 minutes from a parking lot? *laughs* Jokes aside, here's what we found, topo was right on. P1-P3. Mellow and dirty. There might have been a few short steps of 5.10 but mostly mossy 5.7-5.8. Kinda lame. P4. The Scoop. This pitch was worth the walk, one of the best pitches I've ever done in the alpine and for sure the pumpiest lead I've ever done in mountains. Looking up from the belay the pitch doesn't look that long but indeed it is 60M and steep/overhanging for most of it. Starts fingers and widens to perfect hands, this sounds good but by the time you get to the hands part of the pitch it is well past vertical and the pump is real. The locks on the pitch are very sharp, no greasing out. The hard choice is deciding between lay backing or straight in. I did a little bit of both but in retrospect would have lay backed more just to move quicker. Gear is great and goes from Blue master cam to #2 in perfect order. I brought triples orange master cams and triple .75BD it worked but 4x of .75 BD might help. The belay is medium sized gear or slung block. (Might need a 70M rope to sling the block) P5-P6. We wimped out on these pitches, looked kinda dirty and damp so we went right up a short 5.8 pitch to pillar belay (tat). Moved right again on a long 5.9 pitch that took us to the 4th class terrain and summit. No idea if other parties have gone this way but makes for a mellow way to the finish. Gear Notes: Double rack from Blue Master Cam to #2BD. Triple up the Orange Master Cam and .75. 1x #3 BD. No #4 needed. No nuts placed, might want to bring RPs and small cams if going up the proper finish, looks thin. Cold in the shade. Approach Notes: The usual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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