[TR] Mt Hood - South Side 7/5/2014

[ChrisFreye]

Trip: Mt Hood - South Side

 

Date: 7/5/2014

 

Trip Report:

Just wanted to post a conditions update for people interested in Hood.

 

The snow softens super early in the day so it is best to start super early. Around midnight would probably be the best. The upper section (Old Chute) is super kicked in. It's probably not necessary to bring an extra axe. Be careful in the Crater itself. The fumeroles are getting really undercut and it possible to walk into one without even noticing it. I was on the summit around 5:30 and headed back down through the crater at 6:00. I honestly don't think I would have wanted to come down any later. There were ominous sounds coming from Steel Cliffs from the sound of rock fall and ice fall. The moment the sun came up the snow softened alot. Nice skiing exists below West Crater Rock. You can ski all the way to the timberline if you want.

Edited July 7, 2014 by ChrisFreye

[AlexS]

I started at 11:40pm and Chris caught up with me at Hogsback. We've communicated before regarding Rainier/Hood but never finalized on anything, so it was a very pleasant surprise when Chris recognized me! We formed a 2 person team and climbed the old chute together, Chris also helped me to navigate the top ledge traverse to the actual summit, what a great guy!

 

I would add a few things:

 

1. first time climbers may have hard time finding the route out of the parking lot, just go up and make sure the cats are working to your left. Once you reach the top Palmer lift go up (north) from there.

 

2. old chute route is not bad, good solid steps. When going down side steps work just fine, no need for second tool, no need for face-in down climb.

 

3. Once on the top edge be very careful traverse to your right. This year the edge is very narrow with huge drop on both sides.

[Jimi_Lee]

Any Pics of the traverse? Trying to judge whether to take my GF up on Friday. Skier with little to no glacier travel experience.

[ChrisFreye]

I'm at work so no pics but I can tell you that it is super narrow. It is only one foot wide at one point where is slopes a little bit and then drops straight down with a thousand foot drop on either side. It was super solid when I walked across but slightly unerving as the exposure was pretty high.