Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber


      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  

[TR] Mt Stuart - SGC 5/15/2014

Recommended Posts

Trip: Mt Stuart - SGC


Date: 5/15/2014


Trip Report:

In the spirit of giving back to the great community of cc.com, where I constantly gather conditions info and rarely give back my share, see below for a conditions/brief TR for the SGC from this past Saturday.


Mike and I set off at 3am, and were fortunate to follow behind a friendly pair of climbers from Portland who established a nice boot pack all the way up through Stuart Lake and across to the couloir entrance.




The bergschrund crossing was no problem:




The couloir is in great condition, with enough water ice at the constrictions that I was able to place solid 13 cm screws at each step.




The West Ridge was mostly snow free, with some exceptions particularly the pitch that ventures out onto the North Face, and the shaded offwidth crack pitch up higher.


We came out in 16 hours car-2-car.



Gear Notes:

30m rope, nuts, pins, cams, 2 screws, 2 tools, 2 crampons, 1 block of cheese, 1 bag of pepperoni.


Approach Notes:

Approach via Stuart Lake, descended Mountaineers creek.

Edited by tbrugh

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Excellent report.


Was everything frozen. It was very hot last thursday & I'm curious to know if the snow was firm up there or if you had issues with soft snow?

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

We were the other party that the original poster referred to. By the way, many thanks to those guys for helping to navigate out. I always manage to foul up going out Mountaineer Creek and appreciated the assistance in making it less painful.


I regards to your question, there was a breakable crust on the way in that was exhausting and aggrevating from Stuart Lake up to near the 'scrund, and we postholed--sometimes up to our thighs--on the descent.


(What's up with pictures posting sideways???)


The first ice step



Approaching the West Ridge



Stepping down off the West Ridge notch on to the first pitch of the route

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for posting, tbrugh. bonathanjarret and I were the other party. Here are a few pics of the constriction, and the snow field above, leading to the West Ridge.


We solo'd to the ice step at the start of the constriction and hoped to pitch it out in 60m, but didn't quite make it. We swung a quick lead to get into the upper snow field and simul'd up to the notch.


All I have is pics of the SGC, but as you said, the upper West Ridge was mostly dry. That slab and off-width was interesting to say the least.


Deep wet snow on the descent, meandering deproach of Mountaineer's creek and fun log crossing to complete the day.






Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this