[TR] North Cascades - SW couloir on South Early Winter Spire 5/15/2014

[Seraphim]

Trip: North Cascades - SW couloir on South Early Winter Spire. Elevation: 7807 ft / 2380 m

 

Date: 5/15/2014

 

Trip Report:

 

 

Last week was beautiful and sunny. Took Thursday off from work and had no partner available to climb with during this brief window of nice weather. SW couloir on SEWS sounded pretty straight forward and doable for a solo climb.

 

I contemplated trying this route on Friday (the 16th), but the weather didn't look quite as nice; plus the window on this route is closing fast.

 

Left the Seattle area around 3am, and made it to the trailhead by 7:30am. I ditched the slow shoes and headed up to the base of the climb. By 10:00am I was at the base.

 

Here is a picture I took from the hairpin (looks impressive from this side)

 

 

Honestly I am not sure this route will be in good condition within another week. There were a few short sections of water ice, and the upper colouir is melting out fast.

 

 

 

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Summit was beautiful:

 

 

 

 

I contemplated rappelling the south arete, but decided to use the anchors in the colouir. I did 6 rappels total (you could do 2 or 3, but I was by myself).

 

 

 

Ran into a goat at the base. Was hoping he wouldn't charge me!

 

 

 

 

 

I was down at the base by 2:30, and on my way back to Seattle just in time for the cruddy drive through the suburbs of Bellevue.

 

Red Bull helps with the drive.

 

 

Some final thoughts.

I thought the climb was pretty fun, but I think the window on this is closing fast. The upper couloir is melting fast, and lots of chossy/cruddy rock is in the couloir, on the way down I created quite a few rockslides. Luckily no one else was on the route at the time. I had the whole day to myself!

 

Gear used: Two tools, 60 meter rope, belay device, crampons.

 

Edited May 19, 2014 by Seraphim

[Tyson.g]

Did you climb the Couloir in the first photo? I am confused.

I have never heard of it taking 6 raps to exit the SW Couloir.

 

[Seraphim]

Did you climb the Couloir in the first photo? I am confused.

I have never heard of it taking 6 raps to exit the SW Couloir.

 

Hey Tyson,

 

I did the SW couloir route. I did 6 rappels because I was by myself, and there was lots of loose rock coming down. Basically whenever I saw rap slings I used them.

 

I could have easily done it in 2 or 3 rappels. In the lower couloir there was lots of "postholing" and I didn't want to put up with it. Mainly I didn't want to downclimb the pile of cr@p.

 

Plus the final chockstone had a big moat around it forming. Hope that makes sense. The route is melting out fast.

Edited May 16, 2014 by Seraphim

[Frankazoid]

Nice outing! Did you get a look at the south arete? Think it would be snow free by now?

[Seraphim]

Nice outing! Did you get a look at the south arete? Think it would be snow free by now?

 

Frank sorry I missed your message. Yes the south arete is snow free. I imagine it is in great shape right now.